i got the new starter installed and it fits great but when i turn it over it is acting like the battery is low and its new and on the charger the new starter sil only reads 4-6 volts to the starter while trying to turn over??? evey 10-15 trys of click click click it will vrav vrav vrav raaav vav click and thats it!!

 

It sounds like you either have a massive voltage drop in the starter cable or the battery is sulphated. You should have at least 9.6V at the starter when cranking. How old is the battery? and has it set around for period of time?you can do a drop test by first measuring the voltage at the terminals and at the same tine at the starter if the drop is more that .1 volts you may have a cable problem

 

Have a 6V battery? The positive/negative battery and battery to starter cables used on 6V's are twice the diameter as the cables used on 12V batteries.

Another possibility, is the "new" starter a rebuilt?

Most rebuilt starters have had the brushes replaced, some have had the bearings/bushings replaced, but very very few have had the armature replaced.

Rebuilt starters are soaked in a solvent bath, dried off, the parts are replaced and into a box they go.

If the armature is fried, the solvent will remove the burned coating and mask the smell, but the armature wiill still be fried.

A fried armature causes the starter to drag.

 

If your 6 volt, cable size and poor connection,especially the ground can cause issues. Make sure the starter is grounded as well as the engine to a good clean ground.
Good luck
Larry

 

All good suggstions so far. The easiest and so far the most likely culprits are the cables and connections. I am assuming you have a standard Ford type solenoid relay like the type that mounts on the firewall or inner fender. Since it clicks I am thinking bad connection or cable. Try using a good heavy duty jumper cable to go from the battery directly to the starter momentarily. If it cranks good that way then you have a good starter and something wrong between it and the battery. Also there has to be a good ground connection to the engine block. Even if it looks good take it apart and clean it. Some vehicles used a braided flat bare cable going to the engin block which in time develops a bad connection due to mechanical movement and vibration. The point is that you should check every connection and cable in the circuit. If the solenoid is old replace it. they don't cost that much.

Later Man...

 

well everything is 12v on the truck the battery was new as of 05/08 and i tryed 3 different ones and same problem. The starter is new but i belive it was rebuilt. i got a new sil and i used a dremal to clean ever connection i even hooked up a ground strap from the block to the frame grinded block and frame. New battery cables new starter cable. I get betwwen 12-13 volt from the batter + and - and from ground to positive on starter sil as well as the out put to the starter only with the starter cable off . when cable is on it only is putin 4-6 volts out at the output terminal and stuggles to turn the fly wheel and it only get like teo rotations and then it needs a sec to like as to recharge.

 

Measure the voltage on both sides of the solenoid relay when attempting to crank the engine. Also measure at the battery positive terminal while cranking. Measure at the stud or bolt head in the case of a side terminal battery, NOT the connector or clamp. If the voltage is higher on the battery side of the solenoid it is bad. It can be bad even if it is new. If the voltage drops at the battery terminal then you have a bad battery and it can happen even to new batteries. If you got a warranty, take it back. Most places can run a load check on the battery to determine if it is bad. It sounds like you might have a bad cell in the battery.

Later Man...

 

hey dave the voltage while cranking on the battery is 12 v and 12 volts at battery side of sil with starter connected and not connected. the termeinal is 6 volts while cranking with starter connected and cranking measing the starter side of the sil and if i disconnect the starter and measure the starter sil side it goes to 12 v i have switched the silinoid out 3 times

 

Well, I don't know about the quality of your solenoids but if the voltage drops that much across it then there is a problem. That battery voltage is supposed to be measured while cranking. You post did not say that, it said while connected. Better check again. The point here is you have to look for the place the voltage drops while cranking. This has nothing to do with if the starter is connected or not. THE KEY IS TO MEASURE ALL POINTS WHILE CRANKING.

All I can say is to check and re-check. I will be here at the computer running my mail and FTE in the background while I'm doing accounting work for my taxes. If you post again I will hear it and I'll check.

Later Man...

 

Everyone has a different way. to do things. Like others I feel the process of elimination may change, just find the problem. My way: check battery age and condition of terminals/clean/tight/around 650 cranking amps or more depending on engine size/ mods,etc. (12 VDC neg ground system)Using a set of jumper cables, I attach neg jumper cable lead to battery neg and the other end to a bolt on the engine. This eliminates all grounds for troubleshooting. You can disconnect the starter's positive cable if able to attach to stud with jumper cable positive, if not disconnect solinoid to starter cable. Being careful to attach the positive jumper cable to the (starter to solinoid )cable. Next touch the other jumper cable positive lead to the battery positive post. If the engine turnsover correctly you have found the problem is grounds, cable size/cable swedges/ loose attachments etc. Good luck, chuck

 

Paz, you really need to include your vehicle info in your signature or remind us what it is. I see in your profile it's a '60 with a 6-banger. It would have been a 12v vehicle from the start, which is key info.

I'm tempted to think there is some reason a new starter with a new battery etc won't crank, and it has nothing to do with electricity. Was the truck running fine before all this? Any chance you're trying to compress water in the cylinders? or could the bearings be shot? Tranny locked up or dry? There is no other good reason for you to be seeing 4 - 6v unless the starter is nearly locked up solid. What is the rest of the story on this engine?

Try cranking the engine with the spark plugs out.

 

im gunna gunna pull the plugs and try it. what bearings could it be? these no tranny on it right now, i happended to change the pluges and wires and the coil like 3 yrs ago and it cranked right over and it sat for six months and it hasnot been the same since and ive been just changinging parts out since then. it has a 292 y block

 

sounds like ross is heading in right direction. might be a mouse/nest in a cyl. or maybe moisture rusted cyls while sitting. with plugs removed, put some marvel oil in each cyl to (loosen) them up.