Complete and utter electrical failure
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,512
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From: Cook Forest and Irwin PA
Complete and utter electrical failure
So this week, OF COURSE, on the week I drove my F100 to show off and move something, I suffer a failure of everything juicy pulling into the driveway (thats better than elsewhere)
its not ign switch - I had no horn, brakelights, lights, int light etc.
I checked the cig lighter from the new fusebox - works fine
battery ok, wiggled the conglomeration of fusey links and pow, a friend who drove up said the interior light is on.
I have the body electrical manual - at home, 200 miles away.
can someone PLEASE post a diagram of the master distribution circuit? I have enuf tools to bypass the links with fuses till I get home. (and since some of my tools here are my stereo restoration toolbox, i can also install a class-A amplifier on the alternator if I need to.......)
when I get home there will be an under hood distribution box with properly rated breakers and since shrink wrapped lugs in place of the other stuff....(mebbe even LED indicator lights if Im feeling up to it)
its not ign switch - I had no horn, brakelights, lights, int light etc.
I checked the cig lighter from the new fusebox - works fine
battery ok, wiggled the conglomeration of fusey links and pow, a friend who drove up said the interior light is on.
I have the body electrical manual - at home, 200 miles away.
can someone PLEASE post a diagram of the master distribution circuit? I have enuf tools to bypass the links with fuses till I get home. (and since some of my tools here are my stereo restoration toolbox, i can also install a class-A amplifier on the alternator if I need to.......)
when I get home there will be an under hood distribution box with properly rated breakers and since shrink wrapped lugs in place of the other stuff....(mebbe even LED indicator lights if Im feeling up to it)
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
I don't have a diagram I can post, they are in the back of the haynes manual. But briefly, the main power for the truck comes from the large bat + post on the starter relay mounted on the pass fender. It usually has a fusible link right there on a smaller wire underneath the large bat + wire. Check that link. From there it runs down a yellow wire and hits more fusible links and splices that distribute the power to the alternator, the headlights, the ignition switch, and the fuse box. There is alarge yellow wire that goes into the cab that feeds the ignition switch, and then it has a splice and continues to the fuse box.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,512
Likes: 8
From: Cook Forest and Irwin PA
can you give me the value of this main link? since I lost everything but my dedicated line I think this was it. I can inline fuse it to shore me up till I get home - thanks!
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
The diagram I have doesn't say how big it is. They usually go by colors and it will have a wire size on it. Fusible links are not exactly like fuses, and it takes more to burn them out. Figure the full amperage of the alernator and all the draw from the truck goes through that link, so if you substituted a fuse, it would have to be at least 70-90 amps. The newer trucks and cars use those maxi fuses now, that are very large.
If you are going to run to the store and get something, see how big a circuit breaker you can get(the little silver boxes). I remember seeing 40 amp ones, possibly they have larger. That would be better since you possibly still have a problem, so it would just cool off and click back in, instead of blowing the fuse.
If you are going to run to the store and get something, see how big a circuit breaker you can get(the little silver boxes). I remember seeing 40 amp ones, possibly they have larger. That would be better since you possibly still have a problem, so it would just cool off and click back in, instead of blowing the fuse.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
If you have a voltmeter or test light you should be able to pinpoint where you are losing power. Might just be a connection at the solenoid. I really doubt replacing the fusible link will fix it. Sometimes they do look ok but are burnt inside but the wire will be stretchy because it is just the insulation left
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,512
Likes: 8
From: Cook Forest and Irwin PA
bashby you are right down the road from where I work - you ever hit the boneyard 'codys' up in kearneysville? a lot of my fix up parts come from there.
I posted to this but it got ate...
I had to fix it this am to get to work. I walked to NAPA and got a spool of 12ga fuselink wire and some heat shrink rings and butts and Im back in biz - the wires were heavily corroded inside the factory ford 'rubber' casing (I cut em with a razor knife)
Ill do a proper modernizing repair this weekend, prolly grab an underhood power distirbution center from a boneyard and install it. I like fixing electrical stuff once......
I posted to this but it got ate...
I had to fix it this am to get to work. I walked to NAPA and got a spool of 12ga fuselink wire and some heat shrink rings and butts and Im back in biz - the wires were heavily corroded inside the factory ford 'rubber' casing (I cut em with a razor knife)
Ill do a proper modernizing repair this weekend, prolly grab an underhood power distirbution center from a boneyard and install it. I like fixing electrical stuff once......
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