Installed V codes
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 462
Likes: 5
From: Kansas City, Mo
Well I think I'll throw my hat in the ring. I just bought a set of v code front springs from coworker today for $40 bucks! I am a happy camper now. Going to put them on soon as the weather permits. Meaning when it looks like its going to stop raining. I have already added a Helwig and RAS system. Wander is much improved but still there. Will post my results when done. John.
P.S. Hey Stewart off hand do you know do any of these threads you posted have like a step by step how to? I have read quite a few of them but not all.
P.S. Hey Stewart off hand do you know do any of these threads you posted have like a step by step how to? I have read quite a few of them but not all.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
I will say this, dropping the front bumper to access the radiator supports was A LOT easier than I thought it would be. Four bolts (IIRC) and off it came. After that, the front springs were a breeze to remove.
The rad supports (one on each side) need to be removed so the front spring eye bolt can be removed. The fronts are really easy as pie to swap out.
For the rears, the air conditioning lines were the only stumbling block. Loosen a few of the mounting brackets and you'll be able to push the lines far enough out of the way to get the rears done.
Everything is pretty straightforward and intuitive. Once you start, you'll see how everything just kinda unbolts in a logical order. A couple floor jacks really help to maneuver and manipulate the springs into place, as well as having a couple extra sets of hands.
Stewart
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,566
Likes: 18
From: The Great White North!
Here is the link that I found of use when I did my spring swap. The only difference is this fella removed the blocker beam, (which I found not necessary) and he did not take off the bumper, (which I found way easier to do).
You will also want to check to see if you have a 24mm deep socket. It will help to remove the front spring bolt behind the bumper. It can be done with out,(as I did) but WAY easier with one.
When you look at the pictures, you will see the bumper bracket that he took out. You just need to remove the 1 bolt that holds it to the truck, and the 2 bolts beside the front tow hook, (do this on both sides) and your bumper is off.
I did the swap with my 9 year old son, so basically myself (he was the tool getter helper) and only one floor jack and the 2 jack stands. Still easy to do, but if you have a helper that much easier. Have fun.
2000 Ford Excursion V-Code Leaf Spring Installation pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net
Last edited by wallz; Apr 30, 2009 at 10:44 PM. Reason: forgot link
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 462
Likes: 5
From: Kansas City, Mo
Thanks Wallz, unfortunately the weather forecast is for rain everyday for the next week. I'll definitely be studying this thread and applying PB blaster to all the bolts I can. Will post my results when finished. Thanks again, John
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 896
Likes: 12
From: Kenna,wv
I did the fronts with my brother in law in less than 2 hours. I removed nothing. I left the bumper and brackets as well as the blocker beam in place. We simply heated up the front bolts to release the loctite and ratcheted the bolts out. The rear blocks were done by myself and took less than an hour. I removed one wheel at a time and lowered the jack enough that I could access the ubolts. I loosened them and took them off. Then I lowered the jack some more until the blocks released from the spring. I used a second jack and I believe a block of wood to jack the springs up ever so slightly so i could worm the new block into place. Then, I jacked the axle up to align the block and spring and installed the new ubolts. Easy as pie.
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Joe Kucinski
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
I used these RoughCountry instructions to help with my install. Some good pics, nicely laid out steps and lists the tool needed for each step. http://www.roughcountry.com/install/7582.pdf It has instructions for their rear block, similar process to swapping in the 4" block.
That and the advice from others and you should be fine. A few jacks to lift and take pressure off things is required. We only needed to use the straps on the front left to pull the axle back in line.
That and the advice from others and you should be fine. A few jacks to lift and take pressure off things is required. We only needed to use the straps on the front left to pull the axle back in line.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
I say that because yours is the first time I've heard where someone was able to remove the front spring eye bolt without removing the bumper, because the radiator support blocks the bolt from sliding all the way out.
Stewart
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
On my rears I replaced the U bolts. with the 2' extra from the block and the extra 1" from the spring mod the rears were short. I ended up needing about 14" I think in the rear.
For the front, I reused. Even with the Xcode and an extra leave I was still ok - but I had about 2" sticking out the bottom of mine to start with. For some reason you have more thread showing on the passenger side than the driver side, but you should be OK.
They say you should always replace the U-bolts and nuts, and I may have some of the heavy-duty ones made down the road - but for now, running stock.
For the front, I reused. Even with the Xcode and an extra leave I was still ok - but I had about 2" sticking out the bottom of mine to start with. For some reason you have more thread showing on the passenger side than the driver side, but you should be OK.
They say you should always replace the U-bolts and nuts, and I may have some of the heavy-duty ones made down the road - but for now, running stock.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 896
Likes: 12
From: Kenna,wv
Weird. I wonder if yours changed/altered/modified in some way before you bought the rig.
I say that because yours is the first time I've heard where someone was able to remove the front spring eye bolt without removing the bumper, because the radiator support blocks the bolt from sliding all the way out.
Stewart
I say that because yours is the first time I've heard where someone was able to remove the front spring eye bolt without removing the bumper, because the radiator support blocks the bolt from sliding all the way out.
Stewart
I originally replied to this at work and came back to review my post as i didnt remember what I had left out (knew I left something out). Thanks for clearing it up. The last thing I want to do is misinform someone wanting to do an upgrade. Thanks for the correction.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,566
Likes: 18
From: The Great White North!
Yep, new u bolts and nuts all the way around. Yep, kinda silly to sell the u bolts without the nuts, but anything to make an extra dollar. Maybe that is why they have yet to ask for a bailout, or maybe because of all of us here reading all these mods and wanting to spend some money to upgrade/improve.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,566
Likes: 18
From: The Great White North!
The rear springs were easier to replace (more of less parts to take off to get to them), but they are bulkier and heavier. Like Stewart mentioned above (on page 1 I think) just have to worry about the passenger side. You will need to loosen some of the bolts that hold the rear AC lines to get to the bolts. The back most bolts have a shackle on the springs, so remove the top bolt and then remove the shackle after the spring is out, to put onto the new spring, and then leave loosely bolted to help align after to remount. I also left the bolts loose until after I had slipped in the 4" block.
I think dave91 basically explained just the block replacement, very easy to do. I just used the stock tire jack under the spring to compress it enough to slip the new taller block under, while the big floor jack held up the axle.