its time to chuck it in the aluminium cycle department >all the money and time you put into this truck - not to mention gas savings -your time wasted on a good carb kit and headatacks get a factory [2100-a] its knowing when to hold them ,when to throw them and when to pull the plug on it]ps. iv'e got 3-4 >2-bl-1-bls.autolite carbs for all my 60's trucks that i re rebuilt, that run good still in researve when i need them,but the damaged ones i keep the good parts and scrap the rest .[2100-a overall the best carb ever made]look at the holley history connected to "ford" that go's right back to the begining and still the best street performance and md- heavy duty truck carb out there! i have a few of them still kicking *** as well ,oh ya the flout should be> level at wet measure and parallel to the side of the bowl without measuring it,did you check for" warpage on mani/carb base?" do you know iv'e run it with the top off to see flout action in action super carb >but not recomended for the unexsperenced "go with what you know and not in a tow-bring em back alive

 

31/64's is just under 1/2". 32 parts out of 64 is 1/2, so 31 is just before half. It's been years since I actually followed the instructions for an Autolite, but I thought the measurement was from the top of the float(not the fuel). Maybe I'm wrong, it's been years.

I'd probably run the float just a touch lower so as to keep the fuel level lower and not allow it to expand enough to boil over. Very common problem with these trucks.

That heater plate is the first thing I unhooked on my '69 when I got it. They tend to also corrode/pit and leak if the anti-freeze is not kept up with. Keep an eye on it.

 

Freightrain

That is what I thought...just under a half an inch. As for the measurement....."wet" is for when the carb is on the car with fuel in the bowl and you measure the fuel level after running for a minute or 2. "dry" is where you measure the float level with the carb on the bench. Atleast that is how the rebuild kit explains it.

The truck drove great this morning to work! 11 degrees of timing/3-3.5 turns out on mixture screws (still want to check plugs to make sure I'm not running lean)/still have 14-15" of vacuum though. Ran better than it ever has. I usually would have to run on choke till the truck got pretty warm. I got less than a half mile down the road from my driveway and I could shut off the choke and drive without hesitation. Doesn't seem to have a dead spot as it did before. I also didn't have to pump the gas 2 times and pull the choke to start it this morning. All I did was pull the choke and turn the key, she fired right up. Seems pretty decent as of now. Still wonder why I can only get 14-15" of vacuum.

I still get the fuel boiling. I really don't want to unhook the heater plate. I do have a spare if it ever develops a leak. I keep up on my maintenence but you never know...it could still have issues. When my fuel boils over...it doesn't come out of the vent tubes. It pushes it out of the venturi. Curious as to why. Has anyone else had this problem? It makes for difficult starting a few minutes after I shut the engine off. Plus it's putting all that raw fuel down my cylinders and into my oil I'm sure.

Thanks again for all the input and the help. Always fun to learn more about these old trucks.

 

The port for the venturis is lower then the vent out the top of carb, so it takes the lowest point.

The worst part about the heater plate is it's near 200 degrees while running, then after you shut if off, the fan quits moving air across everything, so the heat soaks into everything(the aluminum carb really soaks it up) as the heat rises off the motor. Only takes a little over 210 degrees for things to start to boil, so it doesn't take long for gas to expand and drip down into motor. Removing that heat source and replacing it with an isolator plate instead will help though likely not totally remove the problem.

I installed a Holley carb on my '67 and used a phenolic insolator plate to help keep heat off. It did start easier, though in the dead of summer it still had problems. I had a mech temp gauge and I could watch as it slowly climbed over 210 degs after shutting it off. I ran cheapo Azone wires on it and they'd last maybe a year before turning rock hard from the heat. Can't recall if I ever put a cooler thermostat in it?? A 180 would help some over the stock 195 version.

I've had these trucks since 1984, so been around them for a long time. Usually modify them to suit my needs better, as you see the stock version has it's problems.

 

Very interesting methods Freigtrain. A cooler thermostat. I think I have a 195 degree tstat. But alas no fan shroud. Which is only for keeping the engine cool when stopped anways. Atleast in my opinion. I think I may end up bypassing the heat spacer to see what happens. Where do you think I could find a phenolic spacer for a 2BBL? You would think being in the north where you (Freightrain) and I are that we wouldn't have this issue in the cold. My issue is definately with heat soak at the carb.

 

You can still buy the correct fan shroud from Ford.

D3TZ8146C (replaced C8TZ8146K) .. Fan Shroud

Fits: 1968/76 F100/350 360/390 with Standard, Xtra Cooling or A/C Radiators.

MSRP: $93.30 // FTEpartsguy.com price: $67.18

FTE sponsor: FTEpartsguy: Ed Olson @ Parr Ford in Bremerton WA

Ed's on vacation till the 26th.
-----------------------------
Lemme see if I can find the spacer...will type another post for that.

 

Bill, how would I go about getting that part in the future if I needed it? I tried NPD but they don't have the holes in the shroud and they aren't originals. They are some sort of repop.

 

D3TZ8146C is the exact same fan shroud the 1968/72's used.

It is not a reproduction made in China, it's a GEN-U-INE Ford part sold by FoMoCo dealers.

And that's where it comes from, because it's still available from Ford.

Ford updated the original part number of C8TZ8146K 2/74 to D3TZ8146C.

That part number change is the ONLY difference.

The shroud also fits 1973/76 F100/350 360/390's.

And...even tho the parts catalog doesn't list the application for 1965/67 F100/350's with 240/300 I-6's or 352's...it bolts on without any mods needed.

I've had this exact fan shroud on my 1965 F100 352 pick-em-up since 1983, so I know what it looks like.

All Ford fan shrouds have an ID number (it's not the same as the part number) cast into the shroud at the upper drivers side corner.

Originally the C8TZ8146K shroud was marked: C8TA-8146-S or just C8TA-S.

When Ford changed the part number to D3TZ8146C, the ID number is D3TA-8146-DA or just D3TA-DA.

Ed will be back from vacation on the 26th, so then you can contact him, order it, or ask for info.

Make sure you tell Ed I gave you the part number, because he has no parts catalogs prior to 1980.

When he needs 1979 and earlier stuff, he gets these part numbers from me.

 

Hmm...so the part at NPD is the right one. I could have swore it was some kind of repo. Maybe they pulled the wrong one for me. Do you like the fitment and look of the shrouds that are offered by them? I appreciate all the info. I apologize if it sounded like I was making a Ford part out to be bad quality by mistake. I am hardcore Ford. I will go out of my way to find Ford parts if I can. People think I am crazy for that but I like made in the USA.

 

The shroud I listed is still available from Ford and is the correct one. The info came straight from the parts catalog.

What NPD is selling, I have no clue.

It could be a genuine Ford shroud, it could be a repop made in China.

 

I need to check my '67, as it might still have the factory shroud on it. It's getting parted out this spring, so it can go to a good home.

I put a 750 Holley on my 352. I had a 2bbl to 4bbl adapter that I put on upside down to install the carb on the stock intake. Worked great, got rid of that blasted Autolite. I used it like a 375 2bbl(never opened the secondaries). There has to be a 2bbl spacer available.

 

Parts catalogs list a ton of spacers but the only ref I can find that says phenolic is for a Motorcraft 2150.

 

Numberdummy

Aren't the 2150 and 2100 identical as far as baseplates are concerned? I know there are some differneces in the carb in little ways but I beleive they are identical. I could be mistaken.

Freigtrain

I might be interested in your shroud. Let me know as far as the parting out of your '67. I may be interested in a thing or two. Thanks.

 

I cannot say, because I don't have the parts to compare one with t'other.

E1UZ9A589B .. 2150 Phenolic Spacer (Motorcraft CM3546) / Obsolete

[E1UZ9A589B replaced D9UZ9A589A (Motorcraft CM3055)]

KOEHN MOTORS in Wellington KS has one E1UZ9A589B.

No other Ford dealer or obsolete parts vendor has either one.

Some autoparts stores like NAPA can cross the Motorcraft part numbers over to the brands they sell.

What I would do, is see if NAPA can get the spacer, or you might call that dealer in Kansas, ask them to measure it for you.

Sorry, I don't know their phone number.