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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

B2500

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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 08:07 PM
  #1  
trinogt's Avatar
trinogt
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Cargo Master
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From: Eustis FL
B2500

Hey all. I am joining this forum because I just bought a 1998 B2500, extended cab SE 2wd. It was the closest thing I could find locally to a Ranger that would allow me to make payments! lol
There are 209,000 miles on te chassis, and supposedly the place I bought it from had the 2.5 engine and 5 speed manual trans replaced with a used setup that had 90-100k on it. They also threw a new clutch in supposedly too, a good time to do it!
I am looking forward to being active here, asking questions and possibly answering some too. This is my first OHC 4 Ford engine. I have a 2.3 pushrod engine in my Tempo that runs like new with almost 200,000 on it, but it's a different animal.

One thing I noticed is a slight rattle at cold startup. Goes away after one minute or so, and oil pressure is midgauge immediately. Hoping it's just hydraulic followers and not rod knock! Most rod knock I ever experienced could be duplicated by putting a load on the engine, like lugging in high gear. This does not display any knocking sound when I try that.

I like the hydraulic clutch, much smoother and linear than my cable clutch Tempo! lol
When I test drove the truck, I brought it home and scanned for codes with my scan tool, and it came up clean.

Front tires are worn on inside edge, likely upper control arm bushings? The passenger side sway bar end link is messed up and moves around a lot on bumps and corners. Need to replace that. I thought that since I may need to replace upper control arms, maybe now is the time to invest in drop arms? I want to lower someday anyway, why not now? Is the cost much higher than OEM arms?

I also have airbag light flashing, and ABS light on. Any idea where to start with those two issues? I also have a bum trip odometer, I am betting on a small gear that is messed up...?

Anyway, good to be here. I am a '73-'79 F150 owner, having owned 3 of them, and still have two (kinda) lol.

Mark
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 01:20 AM
  #2  
Rangerman Stan's Avatar
Rangerman Stan
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From: SE Michigan
Welcome to the forum. I know you'll find a lot of good information here and lots of friendly advice. It'll be good to have you along. Other members here can give you better info on some of your questions but at least I can get some of it started for you. Since the car dealer you bought your truck from put in a used engine and trans, I hope they gave you some type of warranty? Even if they were used they should be able to give at least some kind of warranty. That would be very helpful, especially if some of your engine noise problem becomes worse over next few weeks or so. Not saying that it will, but you never know how well it was taken care of before you got it! For your tire wear, it could be nothing more than alignment. If the truck is pulling one way or the other it may need adjustment. But if you need ball joints I believe they can be replaced without having to replace the whole arm. Not sure about the 98's though. That was the first year getting away from the twin I beam system. If you do need arms, you should be able to find the type you want on line. With the air bag light blinking, it may be related to a faulty crash sensor or a bad clock spring in the steering wheel. You could look in our forum topics for ways to test it and what to look for, up at the top of this page in the search heading. On your abs light, you might have a loose or faulty sensor on the top of the rear axle. The sensor produces a signal whenever special teeth next to the ring gear go past it. This sensor makes the signal that tells the speedometer to indicate your speed and it runs the odometer as well as helping control the abs system. You might try to reset the trip odometer a few times to see if that makes it work. If your main odometer is working the trip should also. Especially if the mileage display looks like the mechanical type. But if it's the all digital LCD display maybe some of the processor is messed up. This should give you a few things to start with and hopefully others will be along with more advice. Good luck and once again welcome to the forum.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 10:38 AM
  #3  
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jmmm
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How can I post a question? It is easy to post a reply. I am missing the part that tells ME how to post that I can understand. Thanks, Jmmm
jmmm
My new question is what rpm should the engine be turning at 70 mpg with a 2000 ranger, 3.0 engine, automatic, on flat ground? The stock wheels and tires are p 225 70 r 15.

What i am curious about is my transmission really in overdrive or not?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 10:43 AM
  #4  
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jmmm
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How do I post?

jmmm
02-13-2009 12:19 PM
jmmm
My new question is what rpm should the engine be turning at 70 mph with a 2000 ranger, 3.0 engine, automatic, on flat ground? The stock wheels and tires are p 225 70 r 15.

What i am curious about is my transmission really in overdrive or not?:
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 07:25 PM
  #5  
trinogt's Avatar
trinogt
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Cargo Master
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From: Eustis FL
Hey Stan, I tried pressing the trip odometer, and guess what? It started working! haha. Never thought it would work, but it did. Thanks!

I have no warranty on this truck that I bought, unfortunately... So I hope it all stays together! There is no pulling of the steering wheel, but it has excessive negative camber that needs to be corrected, and I am pretty sure it is from worn suspension components. I can move the wheel at the top in and out and feel a lot of play. No biggy, just need the money to buy the parts...
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 08:14 PM
  #6  
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michigan66
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Dexter, MI
Jmmm - please go to your help request reply under the whining engine noise heading. Taking a "shotgun" approach to asking for help will turn people off from giving you help.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 08:18 PM
  #7  
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michigan66
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From: Dexter, MI
Hi trinogt, I hate to ask this, but are sure the truck hasn't been in an accident some time. The combination of front end problems and an air bag warning is cause for concern.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 07:27 AM
  #8  
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trinogt
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Cargo Master
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From: Eustis FL
I can't be positive one way or the other, but the paint looks original all around the truck, minor scratches and dings all around, and the interior looks good with no signs of bag deployment that I can tell... The front bumper is low at the rear horns at the fenders, as if it got yarded out of the mud at one time, but it looks like something easy to fix... Small cracks in the filler panel (looks to be made of fiberglass) above the bumper, probably from same incident, but that's about it. I have seen the air bag light on in other vehicles before that weren't in accidents, so I will do some more research...
With 210k miles on the truck, there is bound to be worn parts in the front; I just take care of those things on my vehicles as they happen instead of ruining new tires like this owner did lol.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 11:27 AM
  #9  
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adrian702
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I have a 1994 ford ranger xl. 2wd
I have 215/75/15 right now. would i be able to fit 265/75/15
I am all stock. would it fit?
thanks
 
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 02:23 PM
  #10  
trinogt's Avatar
trinogt
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Cargo Master
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From: Eustis FL
adrian, your response isn't exactly a response to what I posted; In fact, it is another unrelated question altogether. Could you please go back to the 'Ranger and B-Series' page and click on 'new thread' or 'new post' or whatever it says, then post a title like 'Tire Size question'... You will get a lot more help that way. I know you have only posted twice, just wanted to help you out before you get chewed on lol.

By the way, those tires you mention will probably fit, but will fill the wheel well more, make the truck sit higher, and throw off your speedometer and odometer accuracy.
Try going to the tirerack.com and using one of their tire size calculators. You will also find info on what rim width for the tire in question.
trinogt



More progress on the new B2500:
I took out the instrument cluster and replaced every illuminating lamp (six, I believe). All were burned but one! lol At Advance Auto, you can buy a pack of (2) '194' bulbs for around $3.19, but the guy at the counter recommended a 'commercial pack' because I needed so many. This was a pack of ten bulbs for under three dollars!!! I have enough left to repair my '95 Thunderbird's bulbs now too haha.
I went to Radio Shack for the passenger air bag light bulb according to 'rubydist' and picked a pair up. This should kill the airbag light according to the thread: 03 Airbag Warning Light. I found code #27, which should fix it, as I know this bulb does not light up at all with the air bag off.
 

Last edited by trinogt; Feb 14, 2009 at 02:31 PM. Reason: add info
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 08:28 PM
  #11  
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trinogt
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Cargo Master
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From: Eustis FL
Wow, took me maybe 10 minutes to fix my airbag light!
I bought two new bulbs (they come in two's) from Radio Shack using the numbers given in that post I gave credit to, pulled the PAD switch out and brought it inside, unsoldered the old, in with the new bulb! Works great, and the dash airbag light is now out.

Next problem: Passenger front wheel bearing exploded on me. Less that 150 miles on the truck since purchase. I drove home very slowly in first gear. Next day, pulled rotor and found outer bearing destroyed, but the race was fine! I replaced inner and outer bearings and races on both sides just to be sure there are no more surprises there. I now have upper and lower ball joints and inner and outer tie rod ends on order from ebay for $88 incl. shipping, package deal. Woulda cost me close to $300 from parts store! Hope the stuff arrives by the weekend so I can do that job...
Also noticed what looks like a new oil leak... Hate to say it, but appears to be front seal!!! Aaargh!
Anyone come across this problem? Is it an easy fix, one-piece seal after the balancer is removed?
It may also be the front of the oil pan; not certain yet. I just hope these issues don't pop up anymore... I don't have the money!
 
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