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This is the last one that I swapped bushings in...........
Cool picture! :)
If I'd had my motorcycles or dune buggies there that day you could have
taken a picture of me going over that road too. ...crossing over it tho. ;)
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The picture of the parts was taken by a photographer not a mechanic. ;)
They should have laid some of them sideways.
The original parts for 2wd is a "dented donut" and the other is a "T shape".
The T shaped one goes in front and the bottom of the T slips inside the
radius arm bracket.
It sucks yours was put together by someone that didn't put it together right
so you can't use it as an example. I'd scan a picture for you but the Ford
Shop Manual doesn't have a good picture.
And I would add, I think it was also easier on my 4x4, I have the same set waiting to go in my 73 F-350, make sure you have a nice solid place for the come-along,, I have used (when someone hadn't returned my come-along) a big ratchet strap, same principal, so in case you don't have access to one, and ONCE, under duress, we used a strap to a ball and rolled the other truck forward,,, NOT RECOMMENDED, but it did work. Make a trip to the car wash first,,, note to self... makes it a bit easier when not so greasy.
Joe
oh yeah, grab a 12ver @ rite-aid, 1 to start, 2 during, your choice after!
Originally Posted by theMadDawg
I think you have a "one size fits all" bag of parts.....
It should be from the radius arm....cupped washer, bushing, bracket, bushing, flat washer then nut like has already been mentioned.
I wouldn't mess around with trying to cut the rivets out of the radius arm bracket either.
I remove the nut off the back of the radius arm and use a come-along and pull the axle forward till it is free of the bracket then replace the bushings and washers and reinstall.
Be careful while doing this, sometimes the shocks will hit the bracket they are bolted to at the frame end, if this is the case, disconnect shock.
A jack under the radius arm help to line things back up when releasing the come-along. The jack only holds the arm in place and helps to guide it back in the hole. Be sure to support the frame with a jack stand while doing this, to hold the weight of the vehicle and take some of the pressure off the axle.
I have done 10 or 15 vehicles this way, both 4x4 and 2 wheel drive. I can swap a set of bushings in about 10 minutes.....that's faster than you can grind off one rivet!!
Ok if that isn't the exact parts I need where can I get them? I know this isn't a Dealer Only Part. Napa online only has 2wd. What about advance auto parts? I think rockauto has the same exact moog parts kit I got from Autozone...or atleast thats what it looked like when I looked the part up online.
As I stated in Post #6, for your particular application, all FOUR of the radius arm bushings are the same.
That is not the case for some other trucks from the 1970's.
4) D8TZ3B203A .. Radius Rod Bushing / Available from Ford.
I don't under stand why there are so many parts to the AutoZone stuff. :/
Never seen Ford stuff use so many parts. Even my '91 looks like my '75
(shown)
The upside down lug nuts are the 3/4" 7/16-20 size nuts and used them
to replace the rivets along with the 1" flywheel bolts.
The other side of my pickup still has the rivets, but won't as soon as I go to
work on it again, the removable radius arm bracket is a real sweet idea.
My suggestion is to...
Cold chisel and/or grind off the rivet heads then using a 3/8" drift pin punch
and drift pin starter punch... hammer out the rivets one at a time and fit the
bolts with a rat tail file so they are snug like the rivets were. Then remove all
the bolts and replace the radius arm bushing.
I'm never doing it the "old way" again.
BTDT both ways now.
These were to show the similarity to the radius arms but also how they have
a shoulder that stops the second (flat) washer. The shoulder is easier to see
in the shadow.
Alvin in AZ
ps- Don't use any washers especially those stinkin split-ring lock washers, ok?
pps- They don't use washers on the flywheel, you don't need 'em here either.
On the 79 4x4 the brackets are bolted on already. But I agree with some of the other guys the come along and jack is quicker and easier.
Mine is cupped washer-bushing-bracket-bushing-washer-nut.
As I stated in Post #6, for your particular application,
all FOUR of the radius arm bushings are the same.
That is not the case for some other trucks from the 1970's.
4 D8TZ3B203A.. Radius Rod Bushing / Available from Ford.
Fits: 1978/79 F150 4WD / 1978/79 Bronco.
Yeah, there it is! :)
The line drawing in the Shop Manual looked like it used (4) identical bushings
like those in the picture from Cody's post but it's so small, couldn't be sure
that's what I was seeing until now. :)
Now the picture from Auto Zone makes sense too. :)
Thanks, Bill.
I've changed at least 20 sets in my time. The first time I did it using the come-a-long method, never again. The next 19 or so times I burned the rivets out with a torch, and replaced them with grade 8 bolts. Replacing the rivets with bolts make it much much easier to do it the next time.
...burned the rivets out with a torch, and replaced them with grade 8 bolts.
Replacing the rivets with bolts make it much much easier to do it the next
time.
That's a big reason for me too and another reason is the idea of twisting my
axle's bushing around more than it needs to be is just asking for trouble, IMO.
After the rivets are out, the job is a straight forward bolting job, no wrestling.
A guy could replace the radius arm bushing and not even make one face. ;)
From arm to nut: Cup washer, bushing with small section pointing towards nut, bracket, could use black washer from kit on back side of bracket, then bushing with small end facing away from nut, large flat washer, nut. My brackets were already bolted in so no come along for me.
In case it's still of any interest, I bought the bushing kit for my '76 F350 at Advance Auto Parts. The kit is Moog's K8 146, and is called an "improved design kit"--don't ask me what's "improved". The bushings look just like the ones in the pics posted by Cody. Each of the 4 cupped washers that come with the kit are labeled as to what position they're to be installed, i.e., "this side to front of vehicle", and "this side to the rubber bushing", for the one that's installed next to the nut. When it warms up, I'll be grinding some rivets, and doing the install.
In case it's still of any interest, I bought the bushing kit for my '76 F350 at Advance Auto Parts. The kit is Moog's K8 146, and is called an "improved design kit"--don't ask me what's "improved". The bushings look just like the ones in the pics posted by Cody. Each of the 4 cupped washers that come with the kit are labeled as to what position they're to be installed, i.e., "this side to front of vehicle", and "this side to the rubber bushing", for the one that's installed next to the nut. When it warms up, I'll be grinding some rivets, and doing the install.
The radius arm bushings used on 1978/79 F150 4WD's & 1978/79 Broncos are not the same bushings as any F350 used.
These bushings were only used with these two 1978/79 vehicles.
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1976/79 F100/350 2WD's use the same bushings.
A 2 wheel drive probably would be harder than a 4x4 to use the come along technique on. I'm guessing I've never owned a 2 wheel drive or done the bushings on one but I have done them on my 4x4. The point about twisting the I beam pivot bushing makes sense. But this isn't an issue on a 4x4, like the OP asked about, as there is no axle pivot bushing.
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