Fuel rail removal
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Junior User
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From: Brewton AL
Fuel rail removal
Ive got thevalve cover off and Ive unbolted the fuel rail (I have a Haynes manual but it sux, it doesnt really go into detail,) Do I just gradually pry on the rail untill it comes loose? is anything going to "pop off"? Im only replacing the #6 injector but the rail has to be pulledoff
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Sarasota, fl
It is actually the High Pressure oil rail, what fires the injectors.
If you removed all the bolts, you should be able to just pull the rail out from the "injectors" . Right now only the O rings keep the rail on by the nipples what slides into the injectors.
Be careful though, make sure you won't damage the O rings. You can pry on it some at the ends, but try to make sure the rail slides upwards evenly.
When you put the rail back on, make sure you pour some oil ( engine ) in to the injectors, so the nipples can easily slide in without ripping the O rings apart.
If you removed all the bolts, you should be able to just pull the rail out from the "injectors" . Right now only the O rings keep the rail on by the nipples what slides into the injectors.
Be careful though, make sure you won't damage the O rings. You can pry on it some at the ends, but try to make sure the rail slides upwards evenly.
When you put the rail back on, make sure you pour some oil ( engine ) in to the injectors, so the nipples can easily slide in without ripping the O rings apart.
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From: Brewton AL
OK I got it off I just wiggled it a little and it popped off. I was able to just move it over to the side to get to the #6 injector. Also I think I found out why the injector was not working properly, the little nut on the end of the torx screw that holds the electrics in had fallen off and the screw was backed out about half way, luckily I found the nut laying in the freeze plug valley. Ive put it back together, now Im going to put a new oil cooler, egr cooler and block it of. Any other mods I need to do while Ive got the top off.
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OK I got it off I just wiggled it a little and it popped off. I was able to just move it over to the side to get to the #6 injector. Also I think I found out why the injector was not working properly, the little nut on the end of the torx screw that holds the electrics in had fallen off and the screw was backed out about half way, luckily I found the nut laying in the freeze plug valley. Ive put it back together, now Im going to put a new oil cooler, egr cooler and block it of. Any other mods I need to do while Ive got the top off.
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From: Brewton AL
I think Ill pass on taking the turbo apart but thanks for the suggestion. It was replaced last year with a rebuilt unit but I would like to know what other upgrades or mods I could do to make the truck more bullet proof? Also I forgot to put any oil in the new injector before I put the oil rail back on will that hurt anything?
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From: Brewton AL
are the orings on the nipples of the oil/fuel rail? is fuel also in this same rail? excuse my ignorance but I havnt fooled with diesels much and the ones that I have just had fuel lines that look like brake lines this is WAY different than anything I have seen. I guess I will just cross my fingers and hope I didnt gouge the orings maybe there was enough oil residue on them to keep them safe. What are the symptoms of a leaking oring from the fuel rail?
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Sarasota, fl
are the orings on the nipples of the oil/fuel rail? is fuel also in this same rail? excuse my ignorance but I havnt fooled with diesels much and the ones that I have just had fuel lines that look like brake lines this is WAY different than anything I have seen. I guess I will just cross my fingers and hope I didnt gouge the orings maybe there was enough oil residue on them to keep them safe. What are the symptoms of a leaking oring from the fuel rail?
Just like I mentioned, that's the High Pressure OIL Rail. It is connected to the high pressure oil pump, what builds huge oil pressure, and that fires the injectors. Damaged O ring can leak enough to cause hard start/ no start symptoms. You need at least 500psi pressure just to fire the injectors. That's why it's important NOT TO damage and check the O rings for damage, while you can.
You said it's an early 04 built truck right. I believe that you have the ICP sensor located under the turbo, it would be a good idea to check/replace the ICP sensor connector with the updated one, and replace the sensor itself to. They known to have a pigtail....
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: IA MN SD
Retorque the hold down clamps on all four injectors to 26-28ftlbs.
Why are you installing a brand new EGR cooler just to block it off? Still under warranty? If not, I'd just get rid of it. That would be more bullet proof.
Why are you installing a brand new EGR cooler just to block it off? Still under warranty? If not, I'd just get rid of it. That would be more bullet proof.
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: IA MN SD
Presuming you're not covered by warranty....
I'd eBay the EGR cooler and pocket the cash, build a crackpipe out of your failed EGR cooler, and use $10 of the (one or two) hundred dollars you made selling the EGR cooler to buy a hose to run from the crackpipe to the oil cooler.
Then there is absolutely no way to experience another EGR cooler failure and all the possible headaches that go along with it (coolant through the turbo and out the exhaust, coolant into the intake causing hydrolock, etc...).
But that's just me.
I'd eBay the EGR cooler and pocket the cash, build a crackpipe out of your failed EGR cooler, and use $10 of the (one or two) hundred dollars you made selling the EGR cooler to buy a hose to run from the crackpipe to the oil cooler.
Then there is absolutely no way to experience another EGR cooler failure and all the possible headaches that go along with it (coolant through the turbo and out the exhaust, coolant into the intake causing hydrolock, etc...).
But that's just me.