Was thinking one of the two options below. Will take opinions on any others. Ordering soon. Camshaft here already and about done pullin out the motor.

Hooker
Hooker Headers 6912HKR - Hooker Competition Headers - summitracing.com

Headman
Hedman Hedders 89270 - Hedman Street Hedders - summitracing.com

Was reading through and it looks to me like the headman contains the parts to keep all the emissions stuff. Want to keep EGR and location of the O2, but the pipes will no doubt have to be custom fitted.

 

I have the hooker comp headers on my 351W and i love them. been on for 3 years now, and they are not warped, no cracks, nothing. I have been VERY happy with them

EDIT: Just reread you post, and yeah, i dont have any of the emissions on my truck any more. When i got my exhaust done out the back, i had them weld in a new O2 bung, but as for the EGR, i dont think it would be possible to keep it w/ the hookers. But after looking at the headmann, i dunno how they would keep the egr either...

 

I like the headman.. Hookers are good to ..But there expensive like 200$ an hour..... I would get the coated ones so they dont rust !!!

 

How is your gas mileage without having the EGR and what not? I heard that the EGR helped with gasmileage. I'm not really sure, but i'm only getting 7 or so MPG with everything intact, so no EGR probably wont hurt anything.

 

I get right around 7 myself. Im surprised thats all you get. Back when my truck was stock i got almost 11. And the EGR doesnt really help w/ idle. The O2 is important, its what adjusts your fuel trim, i would keep that, but personally i noticed no difference when i got rid of my EGR

 

I'm thinking that the O2 was the origional from back in March of '89. Im taking out the double platnium autolite plugs and going back to motorcraft coppers. Changing wires, cap and rotor again. I was told by many people on here that the copper works better with the ignition system. I have another thread about the motor missing between 2700-3000 rpms. I talked to a guy up at the parts store and he said it could be the ignition module. Im having that tested tomorrow. I will let everyone know what the numbers turn out when I get this all done.

 

Also, Blue Rebel, you fit 38's up under those wheel wells with no problems? Thats with the 4in lift correct? Im looking into a 4in lift, but I haul alot of heavy weight and am not sure if the lifts will hold up to what I use the truck for. I may use a few add-a-leafs on the back and one in the front.

 

For the rear i used their block lift, so its still the F250 leaf springs. the 38s fit, but they do rub the fenders when i turn. I really need to either step up to a 6" or get cut out flares. Im probably going to go w/ the fender cut outs. 36s fit perfectly

 

I would go with the Hookers, thicker flanges. Thicker flanges are less prone to warping, the 3/8" flange is part of what sold me on my headers.

The platinum vs. non-platinum debate is interesting. My grandpa always ran Bosch Platinums in my 351 and I have continued using Bosch. My dad has always ran Bosch in his '94 F150 with the 302 and his '97 F250 with the 460. We have found them to perform good and be great. I have never seen one foul out. The set that was in my truck when I got it from my grandpa was 4 years old and they looked fine when I replaced them. I guess some people have had problems though, but we have not in 15 years of running Bosch.

 

Thanks for the info 1994 F250: 351, C6. Im just going to change these because I am running out of options. This mileage is horrible and hope it changes when I get the cam and headers and do this complete tune-up.

 

Yeah, I can understand that. My truck was getting a wopping 8 mpg on the highway when I got it from my grandfather. I got new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and exhaust. Now it gets about 10 to 11 around town and a steady 13 to 14 on the highway (it got 15 my first trip after I got my headers and y-pipe) at 55. Hopefully a good tune up will fix your problem. If your motor is otherwise in good shape and you can keep your foot out of the pedal (it's hard when it sounds good) you should get a nice mileage improvement. Post your results when you're done. Good luck!

 

I hope this won't seem like a "hijack," because I think it may be of interest to the O.P. as well:

I noticed that the specs at the Hedman link indicated that the headers are not "tuned."

I know this seems like a dumb question, but what is the difference between "tuned" and "untuned" headers?

Also, what do people mean when they say a "true" dual exhaust?

Thanks,

BigSix1

 

Coating hookers? That just ruins their sking tone. For $200 an hour they shouldn't rust anyway.

 

On tuned headers all the runners are the same length to the collector, to keep the exhaust 'balanced'.
When people talk about 'true' duals, each side of the engine runs out it's own exhaust to the back or side of the truck. The two sides never collect together. The only way to gain performance from true duals is the exhaust for each side has to be the same length to where each exit. Hard to do on our trucks since the drivers side exhaust usually has to run over to the passenger's side to go around the fuel tank, making it longer than the passenger side. Hope this helps.

 

I'm also looking at headers and the ones I'm interested in are Pacesetter longtubes part# 70-2221. They're the only longtubes I've found listed for the 351 in our trucks that come with the egr bung.