i need help asap!
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i need help asap!
hello this is my first time posting i need some help i have a 89 ford ranger 4 wheel drive with a 2.9L motor in it and that is blown and i was wondering if a 1984 ford bronco 2 2.8L motor would work in that it is also 4 wheel drive i wanted to know if it would bolt up to the transmission and i wanted to know what clutch i would use the one with the 2.8 l or the one on the truck thank you for reading any info would help me have a nice day <!-- / message --><!-- BEGIN TEMPLATE: ad_showthread_firstpost_sig --><!-- END TEMPLATE: ad_showthread_firstpost_sig -->
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
You could swap those, but the problem is that the fuel delivery is different as well as the engine computer and associated wiring. It would be 'bolt-in' as far as the transmission goes, but the easiest thing to do would be using the 2.9 flywheel and crank, I think. Otherwise, you'd have to get the 2.8 clutch kit or swap that in from the '84 donor vehicle. It'd be less headache to get a rebuilt short block or long block 2.9 and replace the bad 2.9, IMO. What is supposedly 'blown' on the 2.9 engine? I'm wondering if it's something that appears worse than it actually is.
Posting Guru
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
AH. Well, depending on what you see if/when you tear into the 2.9 engine, probably might be able to just rebuild it. The only thing that would hamper a rebuild is if the cylinder with the bad rod and / or the crank is trashed, then it would be easier to get a rebuilt short block. Only way to know for sure is to pull the engine and tear it down. As I said before, swapping in the 2.8 in place of the 2.9 would be a lot more work - you'd be going from an EFI setup to a carb and would have to swap a lot of pieces and parts from the donor. Much easier to rebuild the 2.9 or get a rebuilt short / long block.
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help decideing
thanks alot for all the help i found a 2 2.9 l at a salvage yard now i have another question haha i know i know all of these questions they have one 2.9 with 75000 miles for 400.000 and they have one fo3 350 with 1000000 miles which one would u go with and how long do these 2.9's usually last for.
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
I would go for the lower mileage engine (75K), even if it's more $$$. Generally, if the engine has been fairly regularly maintained and will be once you swap it in, they do last a while. I would definitely change the oil as soon as you possibly can - but I would also check to see if there are any signs of trouble before buying the engine and inheriting more problems. You'll want to especially look for evidence of water in the oil - which would be a sign of cracked heads, blown head gasket(s), or worst case - a cracked block. The 2.9s have their quirks, but if you address them properly and get one in decent shape, it will run for a while. If you have any specific questions, post 'em up.
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alright thanks for all the help i have a few more questions is there a high perfomnace clutch kit you can get that is not to expensive that will last longer and a guy i know has a ranger and the truck wont go into overdrive what could be wrong with that thanks alot for all the help
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Posting Guru
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
As far as high(er) performance clutches, you have a few options. You can use the 'stock replacement' type Stage I or Stage II Centerforce clutch, which are slightly higher than the normal stock replacement parts, or, you can invest in the pieces and parts to convert over to a 4.0 clutch, which is larger and has a little better holding power - plus, you have the option of getting a Centerforce for a 4.0, if so inclined. You could probably search this forum (Bronco II) for '4.0 clutch conversion' or something like that and find the thread on it. TRS (The Rangerstation) has the write-up as well in their tech library.
I am guessing that your friend has an automatic? If he has the A4LD, depending on the year of the truck, it has one or two solenoids on the transmission - the single solenoid setup is just a torque converter clutch lock-up solenoid and the dual solenoid setup has that and another to shift from 3rd to OD. Should probably check the band adjustments as well as the solenoid(s) and the vacuum modulator. Might also be a matter of time to change the fluid and filter - but the trans. not shifting is a sign of further problems that might come, so it's best to investigate it now and fix it. Hope all this helps.
I am guessing that your friend has an automatic? If he has the A4LD, depending on the year of the truck, it has one or two solenoids on the transmission - the single solenoid setup is just a torque converter clutch lock-up solenoid and the dual solenoid setup has that and another to shift from 3rd to OD. Should probably check the band adjustments as well as the solenoid(s) and the vacuum modulator. Might also be a matter of time to change the fluid and filter - but the trans. not shifting is a sign of further problems that might come, so it's best to investigate it now and fix it. Hope all this helps.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
If it's shifting into all the gears but 5th, sounds like the shift rail / fork is having issues - but then again, he'd also possibly would have issues shifting into reverse. I doubt it's the clutch - more than likely, it's something internal, like a bad syncro or bearing or the shift fork / rail is tweaked, etc. That's about my best guess at it.
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From: Atlanta GA
> the over drive is not workingcould it just need a new clutch?
No, basically the FM transmissions have a design problem, it is probably broken, welded itself, and requires a rebuild. There is a web site that sells the new upgraded parts with the info, unfortunately I can't find it straight away. I think it was on drivetrain.com.
No, basically the FM transmissions have a design problem, it is probably broken, welded itself, and requires a rebuild. There is a web site that sells the new upgraded parts with the info, unfortunately I can't find it straight away. I think it was on drivetrain.com.
Posting Guru
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
I was unaware of the Mitsubishi transmission issue(s), rebo. Thanks for the info... I think both RBVs I've owned have been equipped with the T-K (Mazda) transmissions, thankfully.
Post Fiend
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From: Atlanta GA
You are welcome, I drilled down and found the info, partly quoted, go to the website for full details. Buy from drivetrain.com because they were the only ones that actually explain the carnage vs. just selling replacement parts.
If I only knew then what I know now.
> I've owned have been equipped with the T-K (Mazda) transmissions
No leaks from the pan gasket then
Manual transmission parts, rebuild kits and overhaul kits Ford and Mitsubishi FM145, FM146, 5 speed - Drivetrain.com
The Mitsubishi 5 speed used in the Ford Ranger from 1985 to 1992 has had a notorius problem with the 5th gear bearing sleeve wearing into the 5th/reverse synchronizer hub. This problem further has cause the failure of the 5th gear on the mainshaft, causing the 5th gear to seize to the 5th/reverse hub and then break.
The problem is inherent, because the mating-surface area of the 5th gear bearing sleeve is too small. Although pressures against the hub are amplified while the transmission is a high operating temperatures, they decrease significantly when the transmission cools to ambient temperature. This continual pattern causes the sleeve to work loose against the 5th/reverse synchronizer hub and then begins to wear into the splined area of the hub.....
If I only knew then what I know now.
> I've owned have been equipped with the T-K (Mazda) transmissions
No leaks from the pan gasket then
Manual transmission parts, rebuild kits and overhaul kits Ford and Mitsubishi FM145, FM146, 5 speed - Drivetrain.com
The Mitsubishi 5 speed used in the Ford Ranger from 1985 to 1992 has had a notorius problem with the 5th gear bearing sleeve wearing into the 5th/reverse synchronizer hub. This problem further has cause the failure of the 5th gear on the mainshaft, causing the 5th gear to seize to the 5th/reverse hub and then break.
The problem is inherent, because the mating-surface area of the 5th gear bearing sleeve is too small. Although pressures against the hub are amplified while the transmission is a high operating temperatures, they decrease significantly when the transmission cools to ambient temperature. This continual pattern causes the sleeve to work loose against the 5th/reverse synchronizer hub and then begins to wear into the splined area of the hub.....
Posting Guru
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
... and I think the Dodge Ram 50s, Mitsubishi Might Maxs, and others equipped with those transmissions all suffered the same issues, come to think of it. Thankfully, Mazda, Nissan, and Toyota all seem to be better designed (never had an issue with any of those three in my experiences). I vaguely recall reading that info when I was looking for rebuild parts for my T-K and other transmissions - mainly because I think the original owner or previous owner damaged the 2nd gear / synchro or something.
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