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i know for a fact that if your system was 6 volt then get a 6 volt sending unit. i had a 55 f100, 6 volt positive ground, converted it to 12 volts and bought a 12 volt sending unit and installed it, no way did it read right. i was at a wrecking yard and saw a old v8 Flathead and pulled the sending unit out of it, my gauge worked great after that. a shop told me that the gauges didnt know the difference. id check with some of the old timers that are familiar with this to make sure but i know what i was told and what worked for me.
Hotrod has it right. The sender and gauge are a matched set. Voltage, polarity and ohms resistance. Not just min and max ohms, but the linear curve, or you get false readings. Mixing and matching is nearly impossible.
Get a sending unit that matches the gauge (ie, original for the vehicle and engine that came in it.) The sender doesn't care what engine it is in. It just translates heat into ohms resistance. When you switch to 12v, get a reducer to keep the dash gauge at 6v.
All you need is a 6v regulator that bolts to the back of the gauge and can use original gauge and sending unit. You buy one regulator for each gauge so that makes a total of three, water, oil and gas. I did this on a 51 panel and kept the original gauges and mounted the flathead sending units into brass adpaters onto the late model engine. Works great.
fifthavenueinternetgarage.com sells them among other places.
all i did on my conversion, was, 12v generator and regulator, 12 volt lights, windshield motor and i believe heater motor, coil and i think thats it. left the 6 volt starter and never had any problems, plus my 55 was my work truck at the time so i drove it every day for years.
Thanks guys. Now I need to ask Bill number dummy about the original part number. My book shows the illustration number but can't find the corresponding part number. Thanks again.