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I am going to add about 7 inches of lift to my truck and I am wondering if I will have to change the pinion angle with that much lift. I think 30* is the max angle between the drive shaft and pinion gear but I am not sure.
you may need shims, i know with the 6 inch on my 250 the rear angle is pretty hairy, i could use some shims on mine. i dont know what my actual angle is though so i cant give you details, i can tell you this; hard take offs from a dead stop yields bone chilling drivline shudders even with the carrier bearing lowered.
i have not replaced any u-joints since 175k and i'm at 256k now. they are greasable units and i grease them every 1-2k. i do eat carrier bearings about every 30-40k but that is attributed to my extrem rear axle twist. i can get almost 12 inches of lift from the rear just by building the truck up and launching under boost. the vibrations will rattle your fillings.
this one is just flooring the truck from a dead stop, you get the idea with a no-boost launch so imagine what it does under load. you can hear my dash rattleing in the video. if i build it up and launch it will vibrate till the rear drops back down to normal around 25 mph. YouTube - 14.7 with chip
the fact that its a crew cab will help some with the angle of attack. the standard cab 350 at work running 6 inches has a scary angle on it. best thing to do is get the lift on and see what it looks like. you may be ok on the rear. it depends on if you do a spring lift or a block lift. the spring lift is where i ran into problems, since i have lots more arch now and a soft ride spring i gets LOTS of axle twist. my pinion angle is crazy. if i could get the wife to understand what i want her to take a picture of while i build the truck up i could post a bone chilling picture and maybee even a video.
This is strange. I looked under my truck the other day and the diff on the rear axle is rotated so the pinion gear is in line with the drive shaft. I am pretty sure that this is a stock setup. Now if you go to this link or some of the others about pinion angles you will see that this is WRONG!! If you have a single u joint on each end of your drive shaft the pinion gear should be parallel to the ground. Can it be that Ford goofed on this? Or am I missing something?
IMO it needs to be a strait shot so there is the least amount of binding......if you rotate the pinion up high enough you lower the fill plug....meaning you will get less fluid in through it(unless you fill it by the VSS)...the front axle is a different story because you will have to get into cutting and turning the knuckles if you want to raise the pinion.
Also...before I would even think of shims I would move spring perches to rotate it....I have seen/experienced shims shatter and fall out.....not fun going down the road at 60 MPH
any shims under the last leaf? i think our trucks have a little bit of upward angle, but not much
Just looked, no shims. Its not impossible the axle spun but I doubt it.
Originally Posted by ron86toy
IMO it needs to be a strait shot so there is the least amount of binding....
Yea but every web site I came across about pinion angles said the same thing about having the angle the same at both ends of the drive shaft if you have one u joint an each end. But for some reason Ford Thinks it ok to have a angle at one end and a straight shot at the other.
Hey joe, just a WAG. Set up your pinion angle like they say it should be in the link I posted and get some traction bars and see what happens. Might really smooth things out when you get on it. It looks like my rear spring perch is not the weld on type, just a block. If yours is the same it should make it easy to drop the pinion down to where they say it should be.
my angle is in pretty much the correct position while sittin idle, its when its under hard load in first gear that all hell brakes loose. the axle twist sends it up into the air, you can really feel it lift the rear of the truck and the nose points down. the traction bars will fix my problem
its not the best picture but its all i have at the moment of my pinion angle. it could be shimmed down a little but then it will really put some angle on the center support bearing if i do.
This is strange. I looked under my truck the other day and the diff on the rear axle is rotated so the pinion gear is in line with the drive shaft. I am pretty sure that this is a stock setup. Now if you go to this link or some of the others about pinion angles you will see that this is WRONG!! If you have a single u joint on each end of your drive shaft the pinion gear should be parallel to the ground. Can it be that Ford goofed on this? Or am I missing something?
Driveshaft angles only have to be phased if the shaft has a single joint at both ends. Multi-piece driveshafts and those using double cardan type front joints (like the Bronco) need the rear joint as close to in line as possible. Pretty much exactly how yours is set up now.
Most lift blocks are tapered at the front. This rotates the carrier up and into the proper angle, but with a 7" lift you will likely also need to shim the carrier down to keep the rear joint zeroed out.
Driveshaft angles only have to be phased if the shaft has a single joint at both ends. Multi-piece driveshafts and those using double cardan type front joints (like the Bronco) need the rear joint as close to in line as possible. Pretty much exactly how yours is set up now.
I see what you are saying but with a two piece driveshaft the rear driveshaft has single u joints and is at a angle to the front driveshaft so the way I see it the pinion should be at the same angle as the rear driveshaft is to the front driveshaft. But I could be wrong.