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I just swaped my 5.0 efi in my 85 f150. All went well however I am not getting any oil pressure to register. I haven't checked with a pressure guage yet. Should I have done something to prime it?
Thanks for any help
if u dont have a tool to spin oilpump driveshaft turn it over a few times with coil wire off. Or pull out the sending unit and verify oil comin out of it. u should have soaked and turned oil pump if it was new in new oil
Did you swap in a new block or a complete motor(junkyard motor)? If the motor had a sending unit on it, maybe it was bad. If it was a new engine, then yes you should have primed it but it's a little late for that now. I'd still suspect the sending unit though.
The engine was used I bought it and used origional intake, new timing chain, used sending unit of origional engine and it worked fine. Today I took of the oil filter and it is dry, so pump is not pumping. Could it be something I forgot or is it definitly faulty?????
Thanks for any and all help this is a great site!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I found out ford uses 2 different hex sizes on the oil pump shaft. I swapped my 5.8 for a 5.0 and had to change distributors, due to the oil pump shaft.
I did not remove the distributor, however I will in the next couple of days to see if the pump drive shaft is there and in tack. I jsut didn't think it could be that because I did not remove it but maybe the guy I bought it from did and did not seat it to the shaft.
Thanks again to allwho try to help.
This is a great site. Bob
I removed the distributor today and found the pump drive shaft was snapped ath the bottom of the distributor. CRAP. Does anyone know if I will be able to change pump by just raising motor, I sure don't want to pull it again??????????
try putting a socket on shaft and turning it to see if oil pump is seized also check roll pin in dist. I've had 351w that sheared roll pin replaced it and drove for 3 more years.Also had a 3. o v6 same issue.
If it is not how do I get the old shaftl out? the shaft has a bonnet on it and will not come up and out the distributor hole.
Also it snapped at the bonnet.
Bob
You should be able to get the pan and pump off by lifting the motor, complete removal shouldn't be needed. I seem to recall a post where one guy said he had to lift the motor, dropped the pan and had to reach up inside to unbolt the pump before he could completely remove it. I am pretty sure he was working on a 460 though, so you should have more room with just the 302. It's weird the shaft would snap, the roll pin is supposed to go first. A small piece of wire found it's way into my 351w and locked up my oil pump. The roll pin sheared which stops the dizzy and kills the motor so you aren't running it with no oil pressure. New pump and new shaft and it was back on the road.
I did lift motor and could not get pan off, I even cut exhaust to make room for pan, but can't get motor high enough to get pan out. Do I need to remove pump bolts and remove pan and pump at once? Or should I remove upper intake to get motor higher? Also will I harm tranny by lifting while bolted together?
I sure do appreciate everyones help
God Bless
Thanks Bob
Remove the bolts attaching the fan shroud to the radiator and position the shroud over the fan.
Remove the upper intake manifold and throttle body. See Fuel System.
Remove the nuts and lockwashers attaching the engine support insulators to the chassis bracket.
If equipped with an automatic transmission, disconnect the oil cooler line at the left side of the radiator.
Remove the exhaust system.
Raise the engine and place wood blocks under the engine supports.
Drain the crankcase.
Support the transmission with a floor jack and remove the transmission crossmember.
Remove the oil pan attaching bolts and lower the oil pan onto the crossmember.
Remove the two bolts attaching the oil pump pickup tube to the oil pump. Remove nut attaching oil pump pickup tube to the number 3 main bearing cap stud. Lower the pickup tube and screen into the oil pan.
Remove the oil pan from the vehicle.
To install:
Clean the oil pan, inlet tube and gasket surfaces. Inspect the gasket sealing surface for damages and distortion due to overtightening of the bolts. Repair and straighten as required.
Position a new oil pan gasket and seal to the cylinder block.
Position the oil pick-up tube and screen to the oil pump, and install the lower attaching bolt and gasket loosely. Install nut attaching to number 3 main bearing cap stud.
Place the oil pan on the crossmember. Install the upper pick-up tube bolt. Tighten the pick-up tube bolts.
Position the oil pan to the cylinder block and install the attaching bolts. Tighten to 10-12 ft. lbs.
Install the transmission crossmember.
Raise the engine and remove the blocks under the engine supports. Bolt the engine to the supports.
Install the exhaust system.
If equipped with an automatic transmission, connect the oil cooler line at the left side of the radiator.
Install the nuts and lockwashers attaching the engine support insulators to the chassis bracket.
Install the upper intake manifold and throttle body. See Fuel System.
I replaced a oil pump and shaft by raising engine and loosing pan. It wasent an easy job, but with my short long arms and a lot of patience it worked. Don't remember if my tranny was attached or not. I am sort of thinking tranny was out being worked on.
Well I finished the jobe yesterday. Wow. Quite a task for a first timer. I followed "franklin's" advise with exception to removeing and draining the cooling system. It was very slow and difficult process, but I won. after all this she fired right up and a little adjusstment to the distributor she idled very nicely. You should have seen the oil pump shaft, it was twisted unbelievably. how the sheer pin did not go is beyond me.