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The horn in my '76 wasn't working when I got it. I ran a hot lead directly to the horn and it worked fine, so I figured the horn bar in the steering wheel might not be connected. Pulled it off, and both the hot wire and ground were connected. I grounded the hot lead, and... nothing. So, it must be the relay, right? Bought a new relay, plugged it in, and... nothing. If I jump the two yellow wires that connect to the relay, the horn works. What do I check next?
Sounds like it must be in the wiring/connections between the relay and the horn bar.Power not getting to the horn bar end of the hot wire? Or maybe the horn bar itself. I had one that just got so brittle with age that it didn't work any more. The plastic part didn't flex enough to make the switch.
Yeah, the horn bar grounds the relay to make it connect the 2 yellow wires together, honking the horn. (Your relay has 3 wires, right? The third should be a blue/yellow wire that goes to the horn bar. (If it splits, the other one goes to the cruise control, if you have that) So the problem must be in the blue/yellow wire (or connections). Unless your column isn't grounded, but that is pretty unlikely. Meter? I don't even know her.
But I'd check the horn pad first. if your truck does not have cruise, remove the pad, and use a wire to jump one post on the wheel to the other. If the horn sounds it is the pad that's defective.
At the bottom of the column you will find the blue horn wire, ground it out there and see if the horn sounds. If it does the horn brushes are possibly worn out, or there is a defect in the wiring in the column.
If it doesn't sound, check for power at the horn relay using your meter.
At the bottom of the column you will find the blue horn wire, ground it out there and see if the horn sounds. If it does the horn brushes are possibly worn out, or there is a defect in the wiring in the column.
If it doesn't sound, check for power at the horn relay using your meter.
Don't know how the turn signal switch assemblies are to replace in these trucks - I've only replaced 2 to my recollection; 1 in an AMC Hornet and 1 in an AMC Eagle (Both used GM steering columns.)
Might use the ohms reading feature of the meter even?
Pull the "ground" wire from the relay and measure what the resistance
to ground is when the horn button is pushed?
Leave the meter hooked up etc when you tear into the column?
It'll be there ready and waiting for you to make "contact tests".
Me?
I'd have the meter so I could see it under the open hood.
There. Is that less smart alack?
Alvin in AZ
Ohms... you mean, like, resistance? I can do that!
Out of all the vehicles I've had over the past 30+ years, this is the first time I've had a horn issue, and I wasn't clear on how they work. Until I read responses to this thread, I didn't realize the circuit was "hot" all the time. I'll follow your advice.