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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 10:15 PM
  #1  
76F100guy's Avatar
76F100guy
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Horn

The horn in my '76 wasn't working when I got it. I ran a hot lead directly to the horn and it worked fine, so I figured the horn bar in the steering wheel might not be connected. Pulled it off, and both the hot wire and ground were connected. I grounded the hot lead, and... nothing. So, it must be the relay, right? Bought a new relay, plugged it in, and... nothing. If I jump the two yellow wires that connect to the relay, the horn works. What do I check next?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 10:56 PM
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From: Duncan B.C.
Sounds like it must be in the wiring/connections between the relay and the horn bar.Power not getting to the horn bar end of the hot wire? Or maybe the horn bar itself. I had one that just got so brittle with age that it didn't work any more. The plastic part didn't flex enough to make the switch.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 11:22 PM
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Alvin in AZ's Avatar
Alvin in AZ
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From: Gadsden Purchase
Am I remembering right? :/

The horn relay has a hot wire to it and so is hot all the time and the horn
button in the steering wheel grounds the other side to finish the circuit.

If that's right then try finishing the ground circuit -at the relay- by passing
the wiring going to the button? {shrug}

Too bad you don't have a meter. ;)

Alvin in AZ
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 01:36 AM
  #4  
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From: Duncan B.C.
Yeah, the horn bar grounds the relay to make it connect the 2 yellow wires together, honking the horn. (Your relay has 3 wires, right? The third should be a blue/yellow wire that goes to the horn bar. (If it splits, the other one goes to the cruise control, if you have that) So the problem must be in the blue/yellow wire (or connections). Unless your column isn't grounded, but that is pretty unlikely. Meter? I don't even know her.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 01:59 AM
  #5  
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The horn switch itself may be defective. It only comes with the pad.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 02:06 AM
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I've also seen the horn brushes wear out.

But I'd check the horn pad first. if your truck does not have cruise, remove the pad, and use a wire to jump one post on the wheel to the other. If the horn sounds it is the pad that's defective.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 10:19 AM
  #7  
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I pulled the bar/button and grounded the hot lead, but it didn't work. That's what made me think it was the relay.

Alvin - I do have a meter. What do you suggest?
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 01:57 PM
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From: Gadsden Purchase
Originally Posted by 76F100guy
Alvin - I do have a meter.
What do you suggest?
Use it? ;)

Alvin in AZ
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 03:07 PM
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At the bottom of the column you will find the blue horn wire, ground it out there and see if the horn sounds. If it does the horn brushes are possibly worn out, or there is a defect in the wiring in the column.

If it doesn't sound, check for power at the horn relay using your meter.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 03:27 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by 81-F-150-Explorer
At the bottom of the column you will find the blue horn wire, ground it out there and see if the horn sounds. If it does the horn brushes are possibly worn out, or there is a defect in the wiring in the column.

If it doesn't sound, check for power at the horn relay using your meter.
This is the guidance I was looking for. Thanks!
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 03:40 PM
  #11  
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Last year for a horn brush on a F100/350: 1970.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 03:47 PM
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Alvin in AZ
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From: Gadsden Purchase
Originally Posted by 76F100guy
This is the guidance I was looking for.
Thanks!
LOL :)

Might use the ohms reading feature of the meter even?

Pull the "ground" wire from the relay and measure what the resistance
to ground is when the horn button is pushed? :)

Leave the meter hooked up etc when you tear into the column?
It'll be there ready and waiting for you to make "contact tests".

Me?
I'd have the meter so I could see it under the open hood.

There. Is that less smart alack? ;)

Alvin in AZ
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 04:06 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
Last year for a horn brush on a F100/350: 1970.

Not exactly, the horn brush is a part of the turn signal switch, and has to be replaced with the entire turn signal switch.

So if his horn brush is bad, he has to replace the entire D3TZ-13341-A (manual) or D3TZ-13341-B (Auto) turn signal switch.


EDIT: Picture...

 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 04:38 PM
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As a temporary fix, you could hook up something like this:

Marine Express USA Boat Parts, Engine Parts, Boat Accessories HORN SWITCH Part # 50-11711 - MOM.HORN SWI - SEACHOICE, Electrical Equipment, 50-11711

Don't know how the turn signal switch assemblies are to replace in these trucks - I've only replaced 2 to my recollection; 1 in an AMC Hornet and 1 in an AMC Eagle (Both used GM steering columns.)
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 04:58 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Alvin in AZ
LOL

Might use the ohms reading feature of the meter even?

Pull the "ground" wire from the relay and measure what the resistance
to ground is when the horn button is pushed?

Leave the meter hooked up etc when you tear into the column?
It'll be there ready and waiting for you to make "contact tests".

Me?
I'd have the meter so I could see it under the open hood.

There. Is that less smart alack?

Alvin in AZ

Ohms... you mean, like, resistance? I can do that!

Out of all the vehicles I've had over the past 30+ years, this is the first time I've had a horn issue, and I wasn't clear on how they work. Until I read responses to this thread, I didn't realize the circuit was "hot" all the time. I'll follow your advice.
 
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