Looks like someone did some floorboard work, look underneath to see what was done.

Beware of fresh undercoating used to hide "the sins."

I've seen floors where someone riveted in metal real estate signs, then painted the floor black on one side, undercoated the other side.

Another trick is to put fiberglass over the rusted out spots, the same procedure is used to hide it.

The rear fender rust is typical.

I'd repair just that spot, which is hidden. That way, the rest of the fender will be original.

 

My guess is that it has 136000 or more miles. at 36,000 i doubt that the underside would look that bad. the rust on the cab is a dead givaway. i would definately check the cab mounts, radiator supports, floor pans, and the lower fender areas behind the wheels in front. these are the areas these slicks rust out the most. i would also do a compression test on it if he'll let you. at 36,000 miles that engine should be about a 100% yet. BTW welcome to FTE. I just purchased a 250 4WD for 500 bucks that"s three times better condition than this one. but that doesnt mean anything if you're interested in the truck go for it. i would definately try to talk him down some. Dutch

 

If you like the truck and are prepared to put some of your time and money into it then buy it. If you think that you got a good deal and are happy, that is all that matters.

I had always wanted the truck that my grandfather had when i was a kid so when a friend of a friend was selling his I drove a couple fo hundred miles, gave hime some cash and then drove it home. I was stoked and couldnt be happier !

 

For a NW truck it looks pretty good to me...the lower front of the rear fender rustout is typical...thats an easy fix though...Up here, the main areas that go bad are floors and the lower portion of the inside kickpanel/floor vent area as this is a huge crap trap and with it being wet moreso then not here...it goes away after a few decades...typically not a structual issue unless really really bad. Many here will mention cab mounts...in all my years and having looked over or parted out more trucks then I can remember...Ive only seen 1 truck with bad cab mounts...and it was from Spokane.
The hood front center area is another prone area...feeling the lip will give you an idea of how good or bad it is...it all depends on where the truck has lived . Lower rears of the front fenders are common bad spots. The radiator core support near where it bolts too the frame is 99.9% of the time bad on an original PNW truck...Ive seen exactly 2 core supports in my lifetime up here...one I sold..66 2wd and the 65 one Ive had for almost 20 yrs or so...so long I forget how long :-)
One other area is under the middle of the seat, there is a box section that runs side to side under the cab...at the ends of it by the door sill there should be a slot for crap to fall out...it commonly gets caked with mud, etc and goes away over time as well...sometimes it will show up as soon as you open the door and the vertical portion of the door sill leading up to the floor itself will be rotted through..This spot is hit and miss on PNW trucks...most Ive seen have been okay though...


- cs65

 

Well it all boils down to how much money you want to put into it, If you've restored vehicles before...you know how much it cost. If you're like me and can do the resto yourself or have a ton of money I'd say go ahead and get the truck. If it was down here in Mississippi I would seriously consider buying it. Just my $2 worth.

 

This year I bought my 61 for $1200 and was happy to find it. Looks like yours with AF blue paint, My truck was stationed at the air field of an Army base its entire life (Air Farce opperation). I am the third owner after the second owner went to the pen fo life. Total miles? 34021 That blue paint didn't like this desert air for sure, only a faint memory now. Sat for 30 years in car Auction lot. NOTE: I had to BOIL OUT the fuel tank, replace the gas lines, fuel level sender, replaced the front brake cyclinders and rebuild the carb. Parts were bought from Sacramento Vintage Ford.com Priced right and only occational back orders so far. RUNS,STOPS and next those rattels in the door windows. Kits back ordered...good luck

 

The photo you posted of the VIN plate is terrible, can't see squat.
If you post a better pic, it could be decoded for you...
For a Grand, it looks pretty cool.
Jason

 

To MVPAL: Did you go ahead and purchase this pick up back in 2006? I just purchased a similar vehicle out of Eugene Oregon; identical with exception of registration # on door and mine was missing the data plate on the dash. Fortunately, you posted that photo and I was able to replicate most of the info. I would like to see if you did purchase it and/or still have it as I have some questions you might be able to answer.

Thanks!

 

Theres a mid-70s model Dodge Powerwagon on the Navy base at Gitmo. The last time I drove it in 98 it had 18,000 miles on it. It was a total rust bucket, Im guessing the frame has collapsed by now.

So they are out there with low miles, but at 50 years old, who cares? Who can prove actual mileage?

 

Also check the cowl vent for rust. Leaves and debris can collect hold moisture and rust the vent tray and the kick panels below the inside vents. These are hidden by the dash and fenders. Check with a flash light and make sure the upper firewall is solid. My California truck was rust free except for these areas and it cost more than $1,000 to repair.

If it runs and drives it should be worth K. Be cautious, these thing are money pits. If your goal is a restoration, start with the best truck you can find. Even if you pay 5 or 6 times that amount, you will be ahead money wise.