Rough and high idle sounds like a bit of air in the fuel system could be possible..

How did you test the glow plugs?
A digital multimeter set to ohm's is the best test.
Ohm's should read between .5 and 1 ohm across the nut and the terminal.
The solid state controller is depending on resistance to time the glow cycle.
.5 to 1 ohm is very close to a dead short, some cheap meters will show 0 ohm's when you try this test.

How long do the glow plugs (Wait to Start light) stay on when you first turn the key to start?

Did the cranking speed increase any while you were cranking?

What does the passenger side battery positive terminal look like?
Is the insulation discolored or look like it has been hot?
Is the insulation swollen near the clamp?
Internal corrosion inside the clamp/wires can show up like this when it starts to get bad.

 

just checked them with ohm meter. All checked out fine. Wait to start light first time on 10 second 60 degree in garage. Battery cable looks pretty good. When i say high idle its only few seconds when it finally starts after turning it over awhile like running on extra fuel still take alot of revolutions to start

 

Ok new ? front injector line passenger side (toward radiator) little item between line and injector only on that one what is it was does it do thanks

 

That item is only on some of them and is to hook a timing meter up is my understanding anyway.

 

That is a pulse adapter that senses the fuel pulse on the way to the injector, pulse timing method was on the 7.3.
6.9 timing method used a luminosity probe screwed into a glow plug port, it sensed the actual combustion event starting in the cylinder.