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I am planning on making my own bracket similar to the Mid-Fifty/CPP bracket that advertises for around $100. It looks to be made out of 1" by 2" barstock. Has anyone made their own as well? Is there a thread out there covering this already?...I looked but couldn't find it.
I did find a drawing posted by bobbytnm that has been very helpful:
The bracket itself looks like this one (forgot who's this was?):
Anyone have dimensions/lengths/angles, etc for the bracket that they would not mind sharing or maybe ideas for improvements from your experiences with the bracket? Seems pretty straitforward, just thought I would see who has done this themselves as well.
Not looking to break any patent laws, just save some money by making my own stuff for my own truck.
I take no credit for the bracket. My feeble memory fails me but I got the sketch from somebody on this forum. I believe he responded that his verson was a bit more robust than mine. In any event, it wasn't my design and the credit goes to him. If you search around you will find it. Bobby TM might have it !
I did photo it in my gallery. I now have the correct Steering Column for this combo (69 GM 442) and will get that documented as well but.......
You need to grind the box casting and get it up against the inside of the frame. You want maximum spline exposed. If you don't, when you need to remove the pitman arm, you won't have enough room to get a puller in. So I'm redoing my bracket and it's a source of serious pissed-off-ness.
Another comment - I bought the Mid-Fifty Pitman Arm. It's correct for the Toy power box and the Ford Ball but at $100 bones, the finish workmanship was horrible! (like in Crap!) I'll spend a few hours in my shop with the grinder making it look like somebody actually cared about how it looks.
There is a web-site with some good info. New Page 1
I have drawings of two different styled toyo power steering pump brackets but I can't take credit for either one of them. I got one (The one pictured in this thread) from AXracer. I can't remember where I got the other drawing from.
What year truck are you going to put the bracket on? I am not positive about this, but I think the bracket made from a sq bar, only fits 53-56 trucks.
I made the other style for my 49 and it worked out real well. The angle is 39-40 degrees.
Thanks for all the replies...
...Don, the truck it will go in is a 53 f100
..thanks to ax or whomever the drawing originated from!
...eman92082, I have seen that link before and have it saved, thanks! How much material are we talking about grinding off of the box? As much as possible I assume to get the shaft out as far as possible?
Also, I thought about doing the pitman arm too, but I am just learning how to weld now so that may get put off until I can do it right, or have someone help me make one. I don't have the original toyota arm so I would have to find one someplace.
I have a column from a 69 olds toronado GT...tilt/telescoping. I am wondering how well it will work? I am afraid it may be too long even when at it's smallest setting. This may be fodder for another post but I have considered shortening it...
I'm betting the 69 Olds column is too long. I'm using my tilt and telescoping column from my donor (72 Caddy) and its too long, even with the telescoping part sucked all the way in. I have a cool chrome column from a 1963 Buick Riveira that I want to switch to eventually.
I've seen articles about shortening steering columns, I don't think its too difficult. I think AXracer might have done it on his but I can't remember.
My steering is a little uncoventional as I've mounted my box up in front of the axle. Not the best situation for bump steer but it works. I had to make my own pitman arm. I had a buddy of mine (certified welder) do the welding on it.
That is a great link, I had found it years ago before it was moved. Thats what convinced me to go with the toyo box.
I wish one of you crafty engineers on this board would start building and selling these. Even at 50% of the crazy prices the vendors charge you'd make money and probably get a good bit of business. I already have the Toyota PS box but have held back because I hate to get ripped off on the bracket and pitman arm.
I'd gladly build my own but don't have access to the materials and equipment needed to do this right.
I wish one of you crafty engineers on this board would start building and selling these. Even at 50% of the crazy prices the vendors charge you'd make money and probably get a good bit of business. I already have the Toyota PS box but have held back because I hate to get ripped off on the bracket and pitman arm.
I'd gladly build my own but don't have access to the materials and equipment needed to do this right.
It would be nice to have a less expensive option. I am sure there are patents, etc that would keep someone from mass producing them but maybe not??
I actually am taking a welding/metal sculpture class at the local community college just to have access to different machines and learn how to get by with my welds for my truck. Hopefully I can build the bracket and maybe the pitman arm while I am there.
I have 2"x3/8" flatstock at work, but it isn't used enough to warrant a big enough scrap-pile that noone would notice. I templated the holes to be drilled but didn't save the program. I decided to do the bends myself, instead of having them bent at work, since the length may be off just a little, atleast since not knowing the radius of the bend. If I can figure it all out, I could try it, but I don't want to be stepping on anyone's toes. Anyway, here's the pic:
I'm betting the 69 Olds column is too long. I'm using my tilt and telescoping column from my donor (72 Caddy) and its too long, even with the telescoping part sucked all the way in. I have a cool chrome column from a 1963 Buick Riveira that I want to switch to eventually.
I've seen articles about shortening steering columns, I don't think its too difficult. I think AXracer might have done it on his but I can't remember.
My steering is a little uncoventional as I've mounted my box up in front of the axle. Not the best situation for bump steer but it works. I had to make my own pitman arm. I had a buddy of mine (certified welder) do the welding on it.
That is a great link, I had found it years ago before it was moved. Thats what convinced me to go with the toyo box.
Bobby
Mine be 32 1/2" and having set it in there with the Borgenson Joint, it works for me. 30" would be better but I think mine is as short as a stock GM column gets with the 40 spline end. I considered shortening but I must have a column shift and that makes it more complicated. I can live with it. If I was 50 lbs lighter, better yet
I think my 72 Caddy column is 35" or longer. I wanted to keep the column shift but I played heck trying to fab some linkaage to work. After one long stressful night of jacking with it I found a brand new B&M Truck Megashifter on ebay for a great price....so, yea, I took the easy way out...
I have 2"x3/8" flatstock at work, but it isn't used enough to warrant a big enough scrap-pile that noone would notice. I templated the holes to be drilled but didn't save the program. I decided to do the bends myself, instead of having them bent at work, since the length may be off just a little, atleast since not knowing the radius of the bend. If I can figure it all out, I could try it, but I don't want to be stepping on anyone's toes. Anyway, here's the pic:
I bent the top end of the bracket @ 40 degrees and put it beside the frame and marked the bottom of the frame on the angled section. I cut the angled section to length so it would just go into the frame. I got the box centered up on the hole in the frame and marked its location on the angled piece. Drilled and tapped the holes to mount it. With the box bolted on, I put it in the frame and clamped the top of the bracket to the top flange of the frame. I slid a piece of flat bar along the inside of the frame on the bottom until it butted up the angled part of the bracket. I tack welded the two pieces together and removed everything from the truck. Beveled it out with a grinder and welded it up with a full penetration weld. This method let me get it right without trying to get the distance between the two bend exactly right and the angle correct. Hope this is clear as mud.