How is your winter starting?
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How is your winter starting?
We have a '93 7.3 non-turbo and in the winter it is very difficult to start without being plugged in (block heater). I was wondering if this was normal for this truck.
Today, for example, it was 42 degrees when we attemped to start and we needed to have it plugged in, although it got pretty cold overnight (maybe teens)
We have replaced: the batteries, starter, glow plugs, glow plug relay, fuel filter and we have cold temp diesel fuel additive in the past.
The "wait to start light stays on for a while, and we try cycling it twice at times.
What else would you guys suggest- or is this something to be expected with the non-turbo?
Today, for example, it was 42 degrees when we attemped to start and we needed to have it plugged in, although it got pretty cold overnight (maybe teens)
We have replaced: the batteries, starter, glow plugs, glow plug relay, fuel filter and we have cold temp diesel fuel additive in the past.
The "wait to start light stays on for a while, and we try cycling it twice at times.
What else would you guys suggest- or is this something to be expected with the non-turbo?
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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Yah, I get 10-15 seconds when it's around the 40s outside, and up to near 20 seconds when it's in the teens, so I'd say that's about normal. Truck should start right up under those conditions, even more so if you cycle twice... Has the injection pump ever been replaced?
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is the timing advance or high idle hooked up? do you get a good loud rattle when you crank it cold it should almost be a deffining raddle, if not you might want to bumb the timing up a little
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Postmaster
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When the IP is replaced, proper ignition timing setting is usually lost, and simply putting a new pump in the same position the old one was in will not get it right. IIRC if the pump is retarded it will make it hard to start the truck, same if the cold advance ain't working. There are two electrical connections on top of the injection pump, unplug both of them and with the engine cold turn the ignition key to "run" (don't actually try to start the engine), then go and measure voltage at the wires for the IP - you should have 12V on both plugs, if the one more towards the back of the IP reads zero then your cold advance solenoid ain't getting no power. Also, when the engine fires up at around 40F outside demperature, do you see tons of white smoke, or just a tiny bit? Actually, do you see lots of white or black smoke at any time while driving?
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Sounds like the injection pump is too advanced, and when the cold-advance kicks in it makes it even worse, hence the incomplete burn and very hard starting. Having the truck all warmed up with the heater helps it get the combustion going, even though it's still way off where it should be.