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Electric fuel pump placement?

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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 03:06 PM
  #16  
F250FarmBoy's Avatar
F250FarmBoy
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From: North-Eastern, Ohio
Here's a diagram on how someone from TDS wired one up.

http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/E...20pump.....jpg
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 05:06 PM
  #17  
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GenLightening
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It will only put out 9-11psi and 30gph, which is alittle higher on the psi and the same GPH as the stock pump. The Holley Red that some run pump over 100GPH, which means that about 90% of the fuel is being returned to the tank. Kind of a waste to me? It might also explain why there have been more failures with them. We have also found that running the Facet up in the engine compartment and using a heavy % of WMO may be a problem. Most are putting them down on the frame near the selector valve.Here's the info on the pump:• Self-priming with a 10 ft. minimum lift• Check valve• 4 hour dry run• Self-regulating• 30 GPH• 11.5 - 9 PSI• VCA approved EC 95/54• 80 Micron Stainless Steel Filter• Transient Protection• State-of-the-Art Electronic• Sealed Electronics• Reverse Polarity Protection• Corrosion Resistant over 100 hours salt spray• Durable Transparent fuel bowl• Light Weight - 3LBs at 7 1/4”• Low Power Requirements 1.4 amp on average
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 05:46 PM
  #18  
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Motor Components LLC - Dura-Lift

Where genLightning probably got that info.....
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 05:51 PM
  #19  
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GenLightening
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From: Pukalani, HI
That be correct.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 09:57 PM
  #20  
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Dave Sponaugle
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I want to add a bit here, my stock lift pump just dies a couple weeks ago.

The diaphram was ruptured when it died.

Engine stalled from lack of fuel.

If I had an electric pump, the engien would have probably continued to run, and the crankcase would have been full of fuel.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 10:41 PM
  #21  
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GenLightening
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From: Pukalani, HI
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
I want to add a bit here, my stock lift pump just dies a couple weeks ago.

The diaphram was ruptured when it died.

Engine stalled from lack of fuel.

If I had an electric pump, the engien would have probably continued to run, and the crankcase would have been full of fuel.
And that's exactly why one doesn't run an electric AND the stocker in series.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 10:56 PM
  #22  
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rupejosh
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From: back in SE Iowa
Originally Posted by texasjack
Is that all it takes is a block off plate? Guess I could make my own for that.
its easier to buy a plate they are only a couple bucks.i put one off a bbl chevy on mine from autozone its even chrome.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 11:34 PM
  #23  
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Chrome.....that adds 5 HP to the engine, minimum.

Add a chrome air cleaner lid...20 HP easy.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 11:39 PM
  #24  
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GenLightening
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From: Pukalani, HI
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
Chrome.....that adds 5 HP to the engine, minimum.

Add a chrome air cleaner lid...20 HP easy.
Would it be real bad if my chrome plate from my 454 has the bowtie on it?
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 02:56 AM
  #25  
Dodge/Cummins's Avatar
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From: Sweet Home, OR
If the block-off plate has a bowtie on it it has to be chrome. That way the 5 hp you gain is off-set by the 5hp loss of the bowtie.
It's simple truckenomics.

Actually I don't believe a word of my own B.S. since I have 4 GM trucks I like just fine. Sure they ain't Dodges or Fords but they get the job done. I just don't ask as much out of them.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 02:15 PM
  #26  
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texasjack
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I ordered the Dura-lift pump today. So by hooking up my elect. pump and taking off the mech pump ,using a block off plate. Will I be in danger off flooding the crankcase if the motor is off and pump on? what? I putting a switch on the dash for the pump?
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 02:23 PM
  #27  
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GenLightening
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From: Pukalani, HI
Originally Posted by texasjack
I ordered the Dura-lift pump today. So by hooking up my elect. pump and taking off the mech pump ,using a block off plate. Will I be in danger off flooding the crankcase if the motor is off and pump on? what? I putting a switch on the dash for the pump?
Nope, it will just go through the return lines.
 
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