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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 08:03 PM
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360

Just got a 74 F100. 4wd. 360/c6/np205

I have a couple of questions, the recommened oem timing is 6deg? Could i raise it to 12-14 wihtout pinging? Also would a hei ignition be beneficial to the motor as for as reliability or just stick with the points igniton?

Also, what oil pressure would be considered normal at warm idle? 15# sound good? Builds about 30 at 2000rpm. Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 08:34 PM
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I don't have the timing information handy, but 6 BTDC sounds close. The better idea is to tune by ear and go from there.

I would dump the points and go electronic. It can be the Duraspark system found in '76 and later pickups, or go HEI. Search around for threads on options.

10 PSI for every 1000RPM is considered acceptable. Yours is within the range, so it's fine. Where are you getting the readings from? A mechanical gage or the factory gage? Installing a mechanical gage will tell you on the spot better than a worn out factory gage.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Jermafenser
I don't have the timing information handy, but 6 BTDC sounds close. The better idea is to tune by ear and go from there.

I would dump the points and go electronic. It can be the Duraspark system found in '76 and later pickups, or go HEI. Search around for threads on options.

10 PSI for every 1000RPM is considered acceptable. Yours is within the range, so it's fine. Where are you getting the readings from? A mechanical gage or the factory gage? Installing a mechanical gage will tell you on the spot better than a worn out factory gage.
brand new auto meter oil gauge

also what is the recommended CCA batt, for the truck. PO put a 600 in it which is not enough, should a 1100CCA do the job?
 
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 09:11 PM
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Ok, then your oil pressure is acceptable. Just keep an eye on it like the rest of the gages.

600 is too small for my taste, also. For CCAs, the bigger the better! 1100 is very good. But do make sure it will fit the battery tray...800 CCA is minimum IMHO.

I have a cheap Autozone Duralast 1000 CCA in mine.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 09:29 PM
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15deg temp+no choke+600cca batt=no start for the 360.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 11:15 PM
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A stock engine should be in the range of 6-12 degrees, 15 is way overkill. I would shoot for 8-10 BTDC.

Josh
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by DesertStorm
brand new auto meter oil gauge

also what is the recommended CCA batt, for the truck. PO put a 600 in it which is not enough, should a 1100CCA do the job?
What in the hello are you doing? Are you racing the truck???
525 CCA has been starting my truck for years, and the engine can't use more than 600 cfms on the road. IMHO



John
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 09:17 AM
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For the timing, I'd definitely bump it up if possible, the 360 is pretty low compression so it can take a bit of timing.

However, the big thing limiting it is the cam timing. Get a pre-72 timing chain and gears and install. It should wake it up a bit without any extra work.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by jowilker
What in the hello are you doing? Are you racing the truck???
525 CCA has been starting my truck for years, and the engine can't use more than 600 cfms on the road. IMHO



John
525 cca,,,, is barely enough to run my electric tooth brush. LOL


Being serious, with all the electronics we have on modern pickups, a 850 plus cca battery should be good.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by maxtor
Being serious, with all the electronics we have on modern pickups, a 850 plus cca battery should be good.
Agree, but trucks that came with FEs aren't modern. I believe it has bee 33 years since one was installed.


John
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jowilker
Agree, but trucks that came with FEs aren't modern. I believe it has bee 33 years since one was installed.


John
Yes, but if you are like me, you have to install all the new goodies that are available for our old trucks.
You have a very good point in that back then, we did not have many electrical options like we have now.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 02:36 PM
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The best way to time any engine is to determine the maximum timing wanted, then go to the parts store and get a timing tape that will degree the dampner. Start the motor and adjust the engine speed to about 2500 rpm, then agjust the distributor to give you the total timing that you want. Lock down your distributor and your timing will be right. With the FE engines about 38 degrees advance is just right.
I found that the best way to upgrade the ignition system was to install a petronix type of after market ignition, you will still have your mechanical and vacuum advance. It would be a good idea to add a high output coil like a Mallory at this time. No more points, usually no more problems with the ignition.
While you are playing with the timing light you should take note if the timing fluctuates once the distributor is locked. If it does fluctuate the problem is most likely the timing gear(s) and chain. In an effort to keep the engines quiet Fords used a cam gear that had molded plastic teeth and by 60,000 miles the gear is nearly always worn out causing driveability problems.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Moto Mel
The best way to time any engine is to determine the maximum timing wanted, then go to the parts store and get a timing tape that will degree the dampner. Start the motor and adjust the engine speed to about 2500 rpm, then agjust the distributor to give you the total timing that you want. Lock down your distributor and your timing will be right. With the FE engines about 38 degrees advance is just right.
That's simplifying it greatly. The vacuum advance, and the mechanical advance, both need to be taken into consideration, as well as how fast it comes on, and the overall curve.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 06:47 PM
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well it runs good, pulls good, but is hard to start when it is cold, worse when hot, when hot i have to hold it at WOT to get it to light off. when cold i could turn it over faster by hand, compared to how weak the starting system feels, it is a new starter, new batt, new terminals and new solienoid. low compression motors usually turnover kinda fast. The truck has 276000 miles on it but no smoke or anything on a cold start, kinda figure sometime over the last 35 years someone has refreshed it, tranny shifts firm, etc. I had a 78 with a 400 it only had a 700 cca but turned over really fast to compared to this iron hog.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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Try new wires from the batt to the sol, then to the starter, plus a new ground, while they may look good, they do build up resists over time.
 
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