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Automatic Hubs to Manual

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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 07:28 PM
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Automatic Hubs to Manual

Recently purchased a 2004 F350 v10 with auto locking hubs. I have read the post on swapping out the auto hubs to manual hubs, but I'm not sure I want to do this yet.

My question is this, can the auto hubs be made into manual locking just by disconnecting the vacuum hose and capping it off? My thought would be to do this during the spring/summer/fall months here in CT and plug the vacuum hose back in during the winter months. My goal would be to save on gas mileage for the eight or so months of the year that there is no snow. Any draw backs or problems with this? Will I get the desired results of improving mileage?

Thanks for the help.

John D.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 08:01 PM
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I see no reason why you could not disconnect the vacuum line from the vacuum pulse solenoid. I would plug the end of the vacuum hose and cap the port on the solenoid. This would essentially give you manual locking hubs.

However, I see no advantage to doing this, unless for some reason you believe your hubs are not automatically unlocking. When the hubs are unlocked, they are unlocked. When you switch out of 4wd, the hubs unlock and the front axles don't turn.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 09:31 PM
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First off, unplugging them will do zilch for gas milage. Auto hubs are unlocked when the ESOF system isn't activated, so the front drive train is not engaged. Just check that the u-jont behind the knuckle rotates freely on both sides and you're good to go.

Secondly, if you're set on converting to full-manual lockouts, why keep the stock hubs? Warn sells premium lockers for your truck. Spend the $200 and never deal with them again, don't just stop at unplugging the lines.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 01:19 AM
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I don't understand why anyone would spend money on manual hubs when you can use your stockers or did they take the manual lock function out of the autos after my '02? I just take my as* out of the truck and turn them to lock and get the same result as aftermarket hubs when the auto does not lock. Don't take me wrong I spend stupid money like everyone else but if the auto hubs don't work and you have the option, just treat them like manuals.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 08:47 AM
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If the auto lock hub is working why change. Manuals won't make any difference in fuel consumption. The auto lock is reliable (even though my son bought manual). I have the auto and they work everytime which is great as I don't have to get out to engage the hubs manually. In rain and cold you will be glad you have auto. Just check frequently the vacuum lines to the hub in the front wheel well to insure that they are still ok. This was the most frequent cause of failure. I replaced my vac. hoses for $3.00.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 09:12 AM
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If your autos work, leave them be, and when they give up (if ever) then manually turn them. Of course, you need to keep them free by locking them once in a while, the **** WILL STICK after a while.

As for why change them? The stockers are pretty weak IMO. I would have broken them by now
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 02:58 PM
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Thanks for all the feedback. For some reason I thought making them manual would free the axle more than when in auto would. I guess I was wrong. I will leave them as is for the time. Thanks again for the replies.

John D.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 03:39 PM
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John, that applies to other brands, as well as the F150 (I believe).

I think what you're getting at is what they call "lockouts" as in, adding a manual locking hub to a vehicle where the front axles are always fully engaged to the wheels.

With the Superduty, that's not an issue.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 07:44 PM
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My auto hubs aren't working. I turn it to lock and it works just fine. Where is the vacuum hose and what is it connected to?
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 10:04 PM
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kburton66,
To a soleniod on the right front inner fender and then to the vacuum pump.

Welcome to FTE.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 09:36 AM
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Strangest thing, for the third time in 6 yrs I found a mouse nest in the space just ahead of the vacuum pump. In my first look around I found three hoses that run to front hubs. The brake line that even I could recognize, a tube that runs to a fitting on top of the cast steering knuckle and one that threads over the knuckle and vanishes betwee the rotor and knuckle. I'm assuming that the third mentioned hose is the auto hub engaging mechinism but I'd like to know what they are. Well, I'm off to town powerwash the underbody and buy a vacuum gage.
Doug
 
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 06:33 PM
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I now know what the three hoses are for. I checked the vacuum to the hubs and it was OK. Now I have to round up a vacuum pump to check the hubs for leaks. I'm going to need breaks soon so I think that I'll run it with manual locks until spring and change the seals then when I do the brakes.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by kburton66
I now know what the three hoses are for. I checked the vacuum to the hubs and it was OK. Now I have to round up a vacuum pump to check the hubs for leaks. I'm going to need breaks soon so I think that I'll run it with manual locks until spring and change the seals then when I do the brakes.
CAUTION if your seals are bad the wheel bearing might also be bad. The wheel bearing is what caused my seals to fail. If it is the bearing you might want to repair it.
 
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