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Column Swap

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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 12:01 PM
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79f150toy
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Column Swap

Ok, I have a 90 f250 4x4 7.3 NA E4OD and I want to know if a column out of a superduty of th same era(88-91) with a 7.3 auto will work. Heres the reason-I replaced the ignition cylinder a year ago and then the iginition switch got out adjustment, so I replaced it. I got about 2 starts on it(just to check the switch to see if it was properly adjusted) and SNAP!!! the actuator broke!!! AAARRGGGG!!!!!

So after research, I have determined it was a real PITA to replace the broken actuator compared to swapping out the whole column...The local salvage yard had a couple of the 88-91 F-Superduty's there with the 7.3 and autos and I would like to see if these would work for my truck....The steps involved in swapping the column is around 10 and the replacement of the actuator involves about 50(and around 5hrs of time)....So hopefully if the column would work, the salvage yard one will have the key to make the cylinder removal easier... I also mistakenly cut the shifter indicator cable and the indicator doesnt work, so how hard is that to fix??? Im open to all suggestions, thanks!!!
 
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 06:20 PM
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i dont know about an automatic, but i just did a column swap on my 87 f250 four speed, for the same reason. got one from an 86 4 speed, that did have the key in the ignition. if you can't get the key along with the column you're probably out of luck or need to just get the new parts and do it the painful way.

at least with the manual it was a very easy swap, both to get the replacement out of the truck and the junkyard and to put it in my truck. the replacement isn't exactly like what i had but the ignition works and so do the turn signals.!
 
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 07:48 PM
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Yea, I am going to pick one up at the salvage yard tomorrow. Its from a 91 f150 2wd gas engine with an E4OD. According to the computer at the salvage yard, it wil be compatible. If it goes smoothly, hopefully, it will be well worth the 100 beans....plus my tilt in my truck sucked anyways-it would fall down if you put a little weight on it, like the teeth or something were not engaging fully....luckily I found the sweet spot where it would stay put while being driven, but it did make it amusing to see people grab the steering wheel to help heave themselves up into the truck only to have the steering wheel go-KERPLUNK- and leaves them with the look as if they just broke my truck!!!!..haha...anyways, thanks!!!

btw, how long did it take to finish the swap????
 
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 08:21 PM
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it took about 2 hours but i work slow. i got the whole column down to, but not including, the steering box. mainly did that because i couldn't loosen the flexible joint just inside the engine compartment at the end of the steering column, so i just took the whole thing. that turned out to be a lot better, because there's just a single nut at the steering box to remove, it was a lot easier to loosen that on my truck and the junk yard truck, than to try and loosen the u-joint type connection from the column to the shaft that goes down to the steering box. for me, that was the big thing that made it easy

i could do most of it myself but needed my son to help for some of it. because my column included the telescoping shaft in the engine compartment, down to the steering box, i needed help to pull out the telescoping section to the right length while i tightened the bolts at the right point. good father son bonding experience.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 12:05 PM
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if there is nothing wrong with the column in your truck, i would just change the actuator.


$10, and a few hours work, and you are done.

or, you go to the junkyard and buy a $100 column. spend 3 hours putting it in the truck, and find out the actuator is broke.

so where are you now??


the same place you started, but with $100 less in your pocket.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
if there is nothing wrong with the column in your truck, i would just change the actuator.


$10, and a few hours work, and you are done.

or, you go to the junkyard and buy a $100 column. spend 3 hours putting it in the truck, and find out the actuator is broke.

so where are you now??


the same place you started, but with $100 less in your pocket.
I agree, I'm not certain that the actualtor alone is enough reason to replace the column. But you also have the problem with the tilt wheel. If you have tilt then you must have CC as well. Is the junk yard column wired for this?

Tim
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 03:58 PM
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as far as the shift indicator cable you can grab another one off a different guage cluster. Not too hard to fix.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 05:49 PM
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Ok, got it done today. It took about an hour to replace it at about 20 degree temp. I went and picked one up at the salvage yard and brought it home. The removal of the old one only took about 15 minutes, but finding a new shifter bushing at the parts stores took the most amount of time, but luckily I found one(motormite p/n-14041). And for the most part, it was a pretty easy install. Now it works fine, but I did find out that the new column doesnt have tilt, but that doesnt really matter to me(just another frivolity).
Oh, and I made sure that the ignition switch/cylinder worked before I got them to pull it. In fact, I went to remove the cylinder out of the old column(so I didnt have to get new keys cut), I found out the cylinder I put in last year snapped where it goes into the column/housing thing. so perhaps it wasnt the actuator. but oh well I guess I have spare parts. got new keys cut, too. and it works... Also, the new(er)steering wheel was in better shape so that is another bonus....thanks to all for the replies!!!
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by tseekins
I agree, I'm not certain that the actualtor alone is enough reason to replace the column. But you also have the problem with the tilt wheel. If you have tilt then you must have CC as well. Is the junk yard column wired for this?

Tim
Wired for what??? I know that it makes a difference if you buy a t/s switch whether it has tilt or not, but I figured it was a difference in the switch(perhaps to ensure clearance around the tilt mechanisms), not the wiring....Is there a diff in the wiring??? I discovered that my horn does not work, but I figured I would just run a push button on the dash somewhere(when it warms up, its to friggin cold.)..I dont drive the truck that much, so Im not in a big rush.....
 
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