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Progress on trans snap ring replacement

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Old 02-04-2009, 09:37 AM
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Progress on trans snap ring replacement

Finally got around to pulling the trans out of the F250. It's not bad-there's plenty of room to work under there. It does help to have a lift available though....


In for surgery:


Trans out(took about 3 hours by myself):


I will tell you this-the 5R100W is a heavy trans-especially when the TC is full of fluid. But,compared to the 4R70W's I've worked on in the past-it's much more balanced on the jack and easier to get out. I did find an interesting thing when I dropped the cat downpipes off of the truck. The pipes are all 2.5",but the cat converter inlets/outlets are less than 2". There's a nice smooth crimped down neck on the pipe for each converter on the inlet and outlet side. Why Ford would do this is beyond me,but IMO,it's stupid. Why even bother with using 2.5" pipe if you're gonna restrict it to 2" in the converter....



More pics coming later this week as I tear it down and see what I find with this snap ring issue.
JL
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Old 02-04-2009, 10:03 AM
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Maybe it's some kind of venturi thing, speed up the air as it expands into the converter?
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Old 02-04-2009, 10:18 AM
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Maybe it's some kind of venturi thing, speed up the air as it expands into the converter?
Then slow it down as it leaves the converter? I doubt it. It's likely a cost thing-the 2" converters were probably $2-3 less cost per converter.
JL
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Old 02-04-2009, 01:06 PM
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That's why I'm replacing my stock cats with high-flow cats in the Spring... it appears that there is a little deception there as well. If you didn't pull the cats off, you would "assume" that they were 2.5".
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Old 02-04-2009, 02:04 PM
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That's why I'm replacing my stock cats with high-flow cats in the Spring... it appears that there is a little deception there as well. If you didn't pull the cats off, you would "assume" that they were 2.5".
That's the plan here as well.
JL
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Old 02-04-2009, 03:27 PM
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Then slow it down as it leaves the converter? I doubt it. It's likely a cost thing-the 2" converters were probably $2-3 less cost per converter.
JL
That would be the simple and most likely reason. Typical reason a manufacturer does something too.

I'm not sure about it though. The only thing that would be different between a 2 in converter and 2.5 in that configuration would be the size of the hole. Basically if it were chopped off closer to the body of the converter the hole would be larger. Then the pipe that goes into the converter has been necked down to fit. More labor cost to do that operation. It would be cheaper to take a piece of pipe and insert it into the converter and weld it without the extra operations. There must be a real reason to design it that way.

I remember different cars have had silly things like that, something that looks like a restriction ends up being an air foil and has a large impact on flow. I can't remember the exact application, but do remember a cylinder head porting issue on a gm car where they were cutting out this bump in the port and killing flow.

In a world of optimizing all you can out of a setup I wonder what else could be a reason for doing it this way.
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Old 02-04-2009, 06:48 PM
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That's the plan here as well.
JL
Here is a good article (study) on catalytic converter flow rates. It appears that Magnaflow (ie: Carsound) has some high flow cats that are highly recommended. The FLP cats are also highly recommended but I cannot find them online.

Catalytic Converters
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Old 02-04-2009, 08:03 PM
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Andy, be sure to share any info. Thanks!
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Old 02-04-2009, 08:14 PM
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Andy, be sure to share any info. Thanks!
Will do! By the way JL, we love pics... keep them coming!
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Old 02-04-2009, 08:31 PM
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Wasn't the early explanation of the horrible Y-pipe to reduce exhaust "flutter" in the V10's? Then it moves to the cost savings aspect of only having one y-pipe for both V8 & V10? I think I recall reading that on here somewhere...
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Old 02-05-2009, 10:05 AM
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Yeah, interesting how that restriction looks like the restrictions in the earlier y-pipes...

Well Johnny, you'll be the guinea pig for flutter on a 3-valver
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Old 02-05-2009, 09:34 PM
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A little update...
Had an oil leak that I was pretty sure was the rear main...after tearing it apart it's settled-it's definitely the rear main.The seal has a very soft spot in the rubber sealing lip,almost like the rubber has broken down and lost it's tension on the crank. The oil slinger had alot of abrasion on the outside edges too,much more than I'd expect at 61K miles. It looked as if somebody had hit it with some sandpaper. The last picture shows the oil that was captured behind the oil slinger and on the wrong side of the seal.





Made some progress on the trans too-the 5R110W has got to be the easiest trans I've ever worked on. It's big, bit much simpler than the 4R70W is, IMO.
The case is in good shape,the snap ring wasn't dislodged,but it was working it's way loose.
The old snap ring-notice that only one side has a "tang" that can prevent the ring from spinning and causing the problems with broken case lugs:


The revised ring-notice that both ends have a sharp "tank" that can engage the case if it tries to spin:

The internals on the table:

The mess that looks like we killed something.....

I did find this a bit funny when I was tearing it down.....

It has gas..LOL...
JL
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Old 02-06-2009, 12:16 AM
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Nice pic's are you going to fix the case or do a new one? Maybe weld it up?



Dick
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Old 02-06-2009, 12:43 AM
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Is the case damaged?
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Old 02-06-2009, 08:08 AM
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Nice pic's are you going to fix the case or do a new one? Maybe weld it up?



Dick
My case is fine-I fixed it before the snap ring dislodged itself and broke the case.
JL
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