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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 08:17 AM
  #1  
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I'm looking for a project truck and have a few questions.

1. What year did Broncos go to TTB?
2. What year did they get Overdrive and what trans was that?
3. What year did they go to fuel injection?
4. Did they have Automatics and/or overdrive in the small Broncos? (not bronco IIs)
5. Is it eazy to convert a fuel injection to carb on a modern Bronco.
6. What year did they get polution junk on Broncos?
7. Does anyone have experince with Bronco IIs? Specificly, are the motor/trans/transfercase reliable? (I dont care about the diffs)

Any help would be apreciated.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 10:25 AM
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1. 1980
2. 1985 (aod)
3. 1985 (5.0 only)
4. No
5. no , lots to swap out
6. 1978
7. im considering a BII build myself, the 2.9efi 6cyl is a good motor and the 4.0 6 can be swapped in with little effort. the 5 speed manual is a good tranny, while the auto that was available is junk. the transfercases can easily be made into a doubler setup which is cool. lots of guys swap in an explorer front D35 and rear 8.8. Myself i would go with a HPD44 solid and 9" out back.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by helirich
I'm looking for a project truck and have a few questions.

1. What year did Broncos go to TTB?

1980 was the first year of the TTB.

2. What year did they get Overdrive and what trans was that?

There was an Overdrive in the early 80's a Clark 3Sp w/OD. Column shift

3. What year did they go to fuel injection?

Cali was 84, the rest of the states was 85.

4. Did they have Automatics and/or overdrive in the small Broncos? (not bronco IIs) No ODs. C4 autos and 3 Speed Column shift.

5. Is it eazy to convert a fuel injection to carb on a modern Bronco.

All EEC-IV (and worse with OBd-II) systems have air fuel control by sensor. It's be a lot of work, wiring/sensor-wiase, but it could be done.

6. What year did they get polution junk on Broncos?

Pretty much since '80. Smog pumps, TAB/TAD, EGR. It's all there. More refined and complicated as the years went on.

7. Does anyone have experince with Bronco IIs? Specificly, are the motor/trans/transfercase reliable? (I dont care about the diffs)

The 2.8L carb engine was a bit weak for the 4WD. Especially the auto. The 2.9L was fuel injected and could be tweaked a bit. Still a slug with an auto. Heads seem to warp in the early years. The last few years had a 4.0L and was about the best that it got. A few folks have swapped in a mustang 5.0L in them. The 7.5" rear and the Dana 28 fronts won't handle V8 power or big tires. The EEC-IV years had the same heat soak problems on the TFI module,

In Stock form, just like the Big Bronco, they are fun rides. (Obviously my opinion). We bought as '87 Eddie Bauer BII for the missus many years ago. She loved that thing. It was easy to work on. We just outgrew it. Camping gear, the kid and the dog...not enough room.



Any help would be apreciated.
Here are the required 10 characters that the system says I need.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 12:30 PM
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Thanks Guys,

On question #5 I was talking about ditching the FI and puting on a carb. Your answers sounded like you thought I was going the other way. I know this is kind of stupid for a lot of reasons. But, I thought it would solve the problem of wireing,sensors and vacume tubes. (I like it simple)

Kem, D44 and 9" is what I was thinking. Great minds think alike. LOL. I was thinking full width axles. Then the (big) tires couldnt hit the frame on the turn.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 12:43 PM
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NWBronco,
I just got through looking at your Bronco. Nice Work!! Are you going to change the outers on the front so the wheels are the same?
 
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 12:59 PM
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Thanks!!! It's all 8-lug. The front is a Dana44HD out of a '79 F250. It's a kind of a hybrid Dana 44. It has the big dual caliper brakes of the Dana 60, as well as the flat top knuckles for the hi-steer. The rear is a Dana 60 out of another '79 F250, so all 8 lug
 
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by helirich
Thanks Guys,

On question #5 I was talking about ditching the FI and puting on a carb. Your answers sounded like you thought I was going the other way. I know this is kind of stupid for a lot of reasons. But, I thought it would solve the problem of wireing,sensors and vacume tubes. (I like it simple)
Then stay with the EFI! The guys understood you perfectly... the EFI IS the simple way! Besides that, if you go through all the obnoxious swapping to get BACK to a carburetor, you take the EEC-IV computer out of the mix which takes the ability to troubleshoot WITHOUT chasing ghosts and replacing things that MIGHT be bad completely out of your hands. You go back to guessing and hoping you guessed right. Not only that, when the EEC computer gets an odd sensor reading it will "tell you" in the form of that pesky "Check engine" light long before the problem is bad enough to leave you stranded on the side of the road in most cases.

One last argument AGAINST going backwards... Do know know of any carburetor that will keep the engine running when the truck is more than about 10-15 degrees off camber? EFI will keep running well past that. Most carbs will lose prime in the bowl and stall the engine when the truck gets that far off camber.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 04:03 PM
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I know you can trouble shoot by pulling codes. But the codes will tell you things like your throttle position sensor is bad or your oxigen sensor is bad. But if you have a carb, you dont have any of that stuff. Its back to fuel and spark. Its eazy to trouble shoot that. I know the EEF will tilt more than a carb, but a carb will go well beyond 15 degrees. I use to drive my carborated Scout up and down 45 degree hills. One other thing. They say after nucleer war, all EEF's wont start. I like to be prepared. LOL

NWBronco, Thats cool. I've heard of people switching the outers. I didnt realize they came stock like that. I had a friend that changed out his F-150 to D60, but left the front five lug. (that sucks)
 
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 04:07 PM
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on question 5 , yes it can be done. i was just commenting on how much addtional work is involved to make the carb setup work. you must change out the tank and electric pump or run an expensive regulator that will allow the carb to operate properly then of course there is all the wiring with the dash and various gauges.

I plan on doing either the 4.0 v6 swap or go with a 5.0 just not sure if efi or carb will be my route on that swap yet.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 01:21 PM
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Ford started going to EFI in 1985 with the 302 in all 50 states. I am not aware of a 1984 EFI 302.

In 1985, the 302 got EFI but it was optional. You could get it either way that year. Starting in 1986 all 302's in trucks were EFI. In 1987 the 300 got EFI and in 1988 the 351 and 460 got EFI.

Even 78 and 79 Broncos had smog equipment. I don't think you can find a big Bronco from the factory that doesn't have some kind of smog gear on it.

I would also stick with EFI over a carb, especially if the truck originally came with EFI. It's a lot of work to convert it, and I don't think you get much benefit other than simplicity. Once you understand EFI and can leverage its advantages, it's just as simple as a carb.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by andym
Once you understand EFI and can leverage its advantages, it's just as simple as a carb.
Well spoken!
 
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 10:26 PM
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I know this an old thread, but on the swap from efi to carb. I guess what I'm thinking is, I take a intake and carb off an old 302 and bolt it right up to a modern 302. Then I take the hi pressure pump off. (leave the low pressure one in the tank) Fab the throttle linkage. If I use the AOD trans, I fab that cable linkage also. This sounds eazy so far.

Will the old set up bolt on?

What gauges were you talking about Kem?

Would the electronic ignition not work? That could also be ditched I sappose.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by helirich
6. What year did they get polution junk on Broncos?

Define pollution junk.
1967 was the last year without evaporative canister for fuel vapor and pcv valve.
Just vented to the atmosphere.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 11:29 PM
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The EEC-IV management system is looking for feedback from the Throttle position sensor, the Air by-pass valve, engine coolant, 302 also had the knock sensor, the TAB/TAD relays, the MAP and EGR sensors. Each have an impact on the EEC-IV brain. It's all based on a reference voltage being supplied to them. When cold, the engine will run rich, and ignore some sensor inputs, (open loop). After it warms up, all sensors are in play and impact runability, (closed loop).

The intake holds the knock, and coolant sensors. the throttle body has the throttle position sensor.. If you figure out a way to make those happy, and got the linkage for the AOD from a T-bird, you maight be able to swap it. The earlier EEC-IV systems were failry simple. Speed density to boot. So, not as many sensors to fool with.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2009 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by helirich
I know this an old thread, but on the swap from efi to carb. I guess what I'm thinking is, I take a intake and carb off an old 302 and bolt it right up to a modern 302. Then I take the hi pressure pump off. (leave the low pressure one in the tank) Fab the throttle linkage. If I use the AOD trans, I fab that cable linkage also. This sounds eazy so far.

Will the old set up bolt on?

What gauges were you talking about Kem?

Would the electronic ignition not work? That could also be ditched I sappose.
You *can* convert to a carb from EFI. Again, I don't recommend it. It's never worth the work you put into it, and it's always harder than you think it is.
 
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