Here in s. ca. at wallmart Rotella dino is 12 bucks per gal. and the syn. is 19. That comes to 28 bucks extra per oil change + the extra tax. I will still pay it but just pointing out the reality in the extra cost.

 

I normally just sandbag along and try to glean some good info from you folks. Since I'm here in Iraq and the truck is home, not much else I can do. But on the subject of oil I can tell you all that I've have some amazing experience with Schaeffer Oil. They've been in business for well over a 150 years, and lubricants are their ONLY business. I've used nothing else in my vehicles for the last ten years, including the boat, and right down to the lawn mower.

I could sit here all night and extol the virtues of (through personal experience) what I believe is the very best oil there is, but rather than do that why not just the time to check it out yourself. Would your engine like an oil that withstands temps 150 degree's higher than ANY conventional oil? An oil that EXCEEDS every engine manufacturer's specs? Nope, I don't work for these guys and the only I get out of it is protecting my investment for the long haul...Happy Trails

 

I have only used synthetic since the first oil change. I am approaching 81,000 miles now and haven't had any oil related issues.

I also run good synthetics in my farm equipment. Trying to start a diesel tractor or use any of the hydraulics in 0 degree whether without synthetics simply doesn't work well. The same goes on the converse. Out on a hot 90 degree plus day in the middle of a field with a hot turbo on the tractor, synthetic keeps the equipment going.

 

Ok i know this may be a little off topic but what causes the blocked up oil coolers i keep hearing about and had ?

Weill synthetics cut down on that or is that just another issue?

 

The plugged oil coolers is on the cooling water side, not the oil side.

Some folks at Ford say it is possibly due to using the wrong coolant, using additives, or running low on coolant and exposing the components to excessive temps that can cause solids to form.

I have done none of these and still had a lot of solids in my coolant filter. It is almost certainly sand left imbedded in the cast iron block from the casting process when the block was made. This sand will then slough off of the walls over time. I had an analysis run and it was indeed largely silica.

 

I only use Mobil-1 Turbo Diesel truck oil. It is the very best in cold weather.

 

Ok,
I have concluded from reading these posts that synthetic oil is the way to go. Currently my truck has 120k miles on it has always used shell 15w40 conventional oil. I change the oil and filter every 4k miles. The truck runs great (except on a cold morning I'll get a rough start). I plan on keeping the truck for life (until repair cost = a new truck). Do yall recommend changing to synthetic or just continue using conventional and changing it properly? Not real sure if switching to syn on a higher mileage truck would have a neg effect. Whats your opinion. Thanks

2005 6.0 PSD, 120K miles, FX4

 

Jayybird I have not read of any longer engine life due to syn vs. dino. Syn does add life in the gear boxes on rigs however it seems. This was covered well within the last year over on rv.net forums with some practical field input from fleet owners.

It seems to be more of an emotional issue than a technical issue. I think synthetics are cool and a few cases could give one an edge but I pay for them knowing they are not likely to be better than dino in a functional sense.

I plan to move to it in the 429 with 144K miles after I get it cleaned up from a short change cycle or two using Sea Foam the last 50 miles before a change. I currently have 5-40 Rotella in the 454.

If I had 10 rigs that took 30 quarts each change my emotional needs might loose out to my financial needs.

 

The exception to emotion is in the area of pour point.

Where temperature gets to below -30C, dino oil turns to molasses like wax.

Synthetic typically is able to pour way colder... and hence, is the preferred oil.

 

Hey, using 5w40 Delo 400 syn for +75,000 Km now, no problems and I started the truck Monday at -35 Celsius no issues on 5 year old batteries. My truck gets started all the time at work in winter, no plug ins, syn is worth the money IMO. Delo is expensive and wally world and others oil is very expensive, but i do the OC and FFC my self, since about 20k, and no issues, only work was moving sticker on degas bottle and injector stiction update. I am at 95,000 km.

 

IF you live or work where temps test the battery on start up each day I think Synthetic would be the way to go especially where there is not power for block heaters, etc.

 

IMO synthetic helps prevent stiction (injector oil latching) and if you do not "cool down the turbo" after towing, synthetic will hold up much better.

 

bismic


Consensus is generally, synth is all around a better oil.


5 40 is the way to go.

 

bismic, which lab do you use for the coolant analysis??

 

The problem of not properly cleaned parts is endemic in the industry.


A standard method is to purge the oil and coolant systems when the vehicle is new.

i.e. change oil at:

50 miles
100
250
500
1,000
2500
5,000

Then follow the regular manufacture interval.


Ditto for coolant system flush (once after 1 month, again at 3 months, then final one at 9 months then follow manufacturer direction.


Do the same kind of procedure for tranny and rear end (not as rigorous needed).