Hey guys. I've been reading a lot of posts on this site for the past year or so and it helped me solve and learn many things. Just thought it would be about time that I joined the team .

Well here is my problem. Last week my gf was driving our 96 f150 5.0efi with 200000Kms, when all of a sudden she notice it bucking quite a bit and wanting to stall. The only way she kept it from dieing was to keep it reving above 4000rpm. Finally the truck stalled and wouldn't start up at all.

When the truck arrived at our home after being towed, I hopped in and tried to start her up. Engine was cranking, but very slowly as if the battery was dead. So I went ahead and installed a new battery and altenator. Still the truck was cranking slow and not starting up.

Before installing a new coil, spark plugs, lines, distributor cap and rotor, I noticed cylinder #8 spark plug was soaked with gas. I went ahead and drained the oil only to notice there was only gas and no oil in the pan. Naturally I freaked out. Once the engine was refilled with fresh oil, I went ahead and tried to start it up again. Everything went fine until it went down to idle speed and then died again. Tried to start it up again but it was doing the same as b4, cranking slowly.

Checked the oil and there was traces of gas again in the pan along with #8 spark plug soaked with gas. I was scared that maybe the engine was ceasing on me causing the slow crank. I removed all the spark plugs and tried to turn it over, it was turning over the way it should, so that eliminated the ceasing part of the problem.

Next was the compression test:
#1= 85 psi
#5= 140 psi
#2,3,4,6,7= 110 psi

Next day I decided that I was going to buy a rebuilt short block and restore some of the old parts to new, this is something I've been wanting to do for a while. As of this moment I am almost ready to remove the old block. If you guys don't mind I will keep you posted on my project with some questions I may have. New pieces I have in mind on buying as of this moment are, water pump, headers and exhaust, injectors, valve covers and timing chain cover.

Bad part is that until today after reading other post with the same symptoms, I found out that it may of been caused by a faulty fuel pressure regulator

If anyone could share thoughts on what may of caused this or what other pieces I should purchase for example sensors of any kind during my installation would be much appreciated. I don't want the same proplems affecting the new engine.

Lol sorry for the long post.

 

Before you commit to the new block, pop the heads off. Valve issues could cause the gas to soak the injector. I had a 302 in a mustang that blew the head gasket between two cylinders causing two cylinders to have bad compression but no water in the oil or vice versa. I had another 302 in an F150 that got a bad lifter from cooked synthetic oil turning to sand because one head was not letting the oil return to the pan.
It could be any of these things or none of them. When you get the heads off you will know for sure what going on.
Look for bent valves, scored cylinder walls, holes in pistons ect. I hope this helps. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the info SPD, I'm really looking forward to see what kinda shape the block was in.
Is it tuff removing these engines without pulling the tranny along with it?

 

Is it tough removing the engine without the tranny ? Not sure if you mentioned if it was a manual or auto. Anyways, it may not matter. Compared to a small car, this should be a joy, more room to work between the engine and the body. Of course at times you might not think so, but in general - it's gotta be the case ...

 

not tough to remove the engine leaving the tranny in the truck, but fords torque converters have studs that go into the flexplate/flywheel which makes it difficult to line up, but not too bad. just a thought, if you have the option of using a hoist, remove the tires so you can get the truck lower to the ground so you dont have to stand on a step

 

Will the torque converter try to follow the engine as I separate it from the tranny?

 

Asylum:

Probably so, after you remove the nuts, try to pry the converter back into the trans as much as possible, without too much force. Make sure you have that trans jacked up or something to hold the front from dropping when it separates from the engine. Probably easier if you have some help when you're doing this, watching and helping things come apart, clearing the motor mounts, keeping the converter in the trans, etc .....