When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I swear, every thing I try to do always causes more problems. I don't know what made me want to look at it (maybe because I'm getting the tranny fixed tomorrow and will be putting it on the engine), but i took the torque converter and lined it up with the flex plate. NOPE!!! It wouldn't fit. The bolt pattern is correct on it, but the bolts on the t/c don't go all the way through. I believe it's the crank that is in the circle of bolts on the plate, correct? What ever it is is what is holding the t/c from seating like it should. I measured it (and they were quick measurements, not exact ones), and it is 1 3/4" from one side to the other. The hole in the middle of it is 5/8". On the t/c, the "nipple" is 1 1/4". So it obviously won't go in the smaller hole.
I asked my little brother, and he said he had no clue. But he thought that they make manual and automatic cranks, and I could possibly have the manual crank. I know that I told them I had a C4 when they were making the engine (302). Anyone know if that is really what it is or if it is something else? And how can I fix it? Am I going to be making a trip to a machine shop?
This is the pic of the flex plate. I measured the circle in between the 6 bolts.
This is the t/c. I'm sure everyone knows what they look like, just thought I'd put it on here so you could see the nipple.
I asked my little brother, and he said he had no clue. But he thought that they make manual and automatic cranks, and I could possibly have the manual crank.
No such thing as a manual or automatic crankshaft.
One crankshaft, more than one flexplate.
EDIT: Wally said to remove the bushing from the crankshaft.
The pilot bushing is only used with a manual transmission.
I noticed while looking at your pics the converter does not have a drain plug! Now this
may be something that they do on new ones? But I have bolted a lot of (T/C)s to motors
and I have never seen one without the Plug!
P.S. it may not matter, but I noticed they did not use a ( Load Spredder ring ) on the flywheel? Like I say it may not matter!
Is taking the pilot bushing out something that is relatively simple to do. I haven't ever done something like that and don't want to mess the engine up....I paid way to much to tear it up. My dad might know what he's doing, he just wasn't there last night to ask.
Go to AutoZone and "borrow" their puller. Those SBF pilot bearings are an absolute nightmare to remove without the right puller. There is an aluminum or pot metal carrier with a needle bearing in the middle. With the correct puller, they pop right out. Any other way just doesn't work.
And I agree with ProStreet, you should have a ring with holes for the bolts, like a one-piece washer for all 6 bolts, under the bolt heads. Likely a dealer-only piece.
I looked through the box of goodies that came with the engine and flex plate, but there was no washer. I used a torque wrench to tighten them all down, so if they are all at the same torque, would it still be necessary to have to washer?
Yes, it prevents the bolt heads from causing cuts or distortions in the flexplate itself when the flexplate...flexs. If your bolts caused any deep scratches or gouges in the flex plate, it can cause cracks eventually.