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Caliber Slide Pins from HELL!

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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 09:09 PM
  #16  
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When I do my front brakes I'll just replace everything. The salt here eat everything.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 09:16 PM
  #17  
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I had two that were rusted pretty good....here's a pic of one of them:




Some PB and a 13/16" wrench on the head to turn them and then grabbed the head with some pliers and pulled them out.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 09:27 PM
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Dan that is exactly how mine looks. I will get a replacement pins tomorrow. The Reman caliber from AZ didn't come with nothing but the caliber its self. This is my first time breaking into my brakes. WEll I guess I can tear apart my drivers side again tomorrow and get the rotors off and see if my neighbor can turn them he has the machine If he has the time Its very temping since my passenger side is right there. I wanted to get some rotors as well but I am tight on money right now so I am just doing the necessary safe things to get by till I am back to work.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 11:10 PM
  #19  
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I bought the calipers, complete with the pins and mounts, from NAPA. I was looking for rebuilt calipers with the steel pistons and no one had them, but NAPA. I just had a torn piston boot, but with over 140k miles and wanting to put in new pads, all the way around, I decided that rebuilds were the way to go. All new hardware and lifetime warranty, too.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 01:45 AM
  #20  
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Are there any upgraded pins for the rears?

I've already done my fronts.

Pop
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 07:22 AM
  #21  
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JD,get the rotors turned and anti-seize the pins,so if you ever have to do this again they will come out.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 07:26 AM
  #22  
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Just did my front pads and rotors. I had a terrible pulsing in the brakes while stopping. One front rotor was really wore. Removing the rotors was a real pain due to all the nice road salt they use up here. I had to pound on each one at least 15 minutes with a 5lb hammer and a block of wood. I never had rotors come off that hard. Could've of possibly turned them but 1.417" is the minimum allowed thickness and we weren't sure if we could've cleaned them up. Didn't want to waste the money trying to turn them and probably still have to buy new rotors. Rotors were $60 a piece from a small auto parts store in my town which I didn't think was too bad considering the amount of machining on a new rotor.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 07:49 AM
  #23  
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I can't get ahold of my person that turns them would O'Riely Rotors be as good or better then the Napa Rotors? They are 20 dollars cheaper.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 09:24 AM
  #24  
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I did my rear brakes early this past summer, and I am convinced that you need to replace the pins every time unless they are PERFECT. The pins are not expensive, but make sure you use the good anti-sieze lube oin them.

Napa has come out with an extreme temperature rated anti-sieze (with ceramic additives) that the local brake shops here are using like crazy.... highest temperature trating I've ever seen... can't find the pic right now, but it comes in a purple labelled bottle and runs about $20-$25. Highly recommended.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 10:02 AM
  #25  
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I do not like anti-seize on anything that moves.....on the hat that sits against the wheel hub is fine to keep the rotor from seizing to the hub or on the wheels to keep them from seizing to the hub.

Personally...I'd only use caliper and slide pin grease.



We were working on my neighbors skid steer over the summer since his controls were jerky as hell....we couldn't figure out why so we pulled it apart and pulled the arm assembly out. The reason that his control arm was not moving smoothly on the pin.....anti-seize that he put on it in the spring when he tore it apart.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 10:15 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by F250_

Napa has come out with an extreme temperature rated anti-sieze (with ceramic additives) that the local brake shops here are using like crazy.... highest temperature trating I've ever seen... can't find the pic right now, but it comes in a purple labelled bottle and runs about $20-$25. Highly recommended.
When I worked for Titleist I ordered some high temp Nuclear Never Seeze. Needless to say the word Nuclear threw up a red flag in the purchasing dept........
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 10:31 AM
  #27  
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This sounds familiar. I had stuck pins on both calipers. Needless to say, they would not-unstuck themselves. Napa got a nice chunk of my money that day.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 10:39 AM
  #28  
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OK guys... you caught me, but I was still correct aside from what I called it. After seeing your comments, I went out to the shop to look at the bottle because I know that the product was recommended for brake parts and is used at several repuitable shops.

I referred to the product as "antisieze" incorrectly. The actual details right off the label are:

Ceramic EXTREME Brake Parts Lubricant
Item #765-1831
100% synthetic, contains ceramic solids
made by Permatex, marketed under the NAPA label
Rated for -15°F to 2,800°F.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 02:41 PM
  #29  
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I have used the gray anti-seize on brake slide pins for a long time without trouble.

I woked for years in a limestone quarry and it was the only thing that would hold up to the limestone and mud that would pile up on our tool trucks.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 03:50 PM
  #30  
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See if this helps JD Welcome to guzzle's Front Caliper Slide Pin Upgrade Web
 
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