When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I bought my truck about 2 years ago. six months after buying it, I went through some big puddles and it started misfiring. Not worried, I proceeded to replace the spark plugs (knew I would do it anyways, and figured water was the problem). When doing so, I replaced two torn COP boots. The boots came with new spring terminals, but they were different from the factory ones. The ones I bought look like this: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_SL150_.gif
The OEM have a black thing at the end of the spring. I cannot use it with the new one. Is the pictured replacement the reason why my truck still misfires???
no CEL, all coils test in spec.
please help, I have been dealing with this problem for over a year!
I'd also to add the observation that without the black things on the end of the spring, the resistance is at 8K ohms, but is about 4.5K ohms without the black things. What are these???
Whenever a coil on my truck goes bad, the CEL never illuminates. My buddy hooks me up to his diagnostic scanner to tell me which is bad, but I see no fault in testing each coil to see if they are good either. Sorry I couldn't help more .
Whenever a coil on my truck goes bad, the CEL never illuminates. My buddy hooks me up to his diagnostic scanner to tell me which is bad, but I see no fault in testing each coil to see if they are good either. Sorry I couldn't help more .
I appreciate you trying! If this misfire was constant, I would atleast be able to play musical coils till I found a bad one. Unfortunately, it occurs intermittently and usually at higher speeds but lower RPM.
Does anyone know if a coil is better off testing towards one end of the spec range or the other? i.e., new coil = slightly higher resistance than old coil or the opposite?
For intermittent misfiring like that it can be a real PITA. I would guess you either have a coil on it's way out or a small amount of water in one of the plug holes that is just enough to cause the intermittent misfire.
You should consider purchasing a ScanGaugeII <---link or something similar.
It not only has 4 selectable gauges to monitor many engine temps, rpm, volts, mpg ETC,,, it scans for codes in real time and automatically stores them so you can view them even after the fact. I plugs directly into the obd plug
Rick...
I have some better photos, but I just can't seem to be able to find them. I can take more if want to get a better idea of they look like installed and in use.
The "black things" might be a resistor, but can't tell, the picture link you posted doesn't work.
You have to check the misfire counters, that are specific to each cylinder. Only a reader with the "ford extended parameters" will be able to read the misfire counters. Might be worth a trip to a good mechanic.
Once you know which cylinder(s) is/are misfiring, you'll know exactly what to attack.
The truck is a 1999 F250 5.4L... unfortunately, lol.
I have gone to autozone, which a buddy said had a scanner which could read pending codes. Their scanner found nothing at all.
The plugs are motorcraft replacements, not aftermarket. Also, there wasnt any moisture trapped in the boots (from what I could see atleast).
I have a pretty tight budget, so buying an on-board scanner isn't really an option for me, but I appreciate the suggestion.
I wish I could find more information about the "black thing" I'm trying to describe. I don't know what words to use to search for it, and haven't been able to find a picture of it either. Later tonight I will try to post a picture of both the OEM and the replacement that I have.
Check the plugs to make sure they are the right ones for your truck,
Check there gap. The wrong gap will do what you are describing.
Any plugs showing other then normal burn, say black, white ashey type build up. Check those cylinders compression.
I had a pesky miss. not really a hard miss but just enough to make me know its was there. I was doing a tune up, found 1 black plug, 30psi in that cylinder. The computer tried to compensate, but at 30 psi there aint much more it can do.
These newer engines like the correct plug. Platnum, double or triple.
I remember verifying the plug parts number and gapping them when I put them in, so that's not likely the problem. The ones they replaced looked healthy with little to no deposits and no corrosion or detonation indications.
Im really surprised that someone else has not run into this query about the "black thing" resistors or whatever they are!
sounds like what happened to mine. I had water in the plug holes. To fix it it is a PITA but its easy. Pull all the cops and using some compressed air blast the water out. make sure you check all of them. if you dont have a compressor try shoving towels down there. Just make sure they are completely dry
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.