Help pulling codes
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Help pulling codes
i just picked up a 1990 ranger, 2.9 v6. I've always owned a honda so this is completely new to me. It's averaging about 11 mpg right now. checked the fuel pressure regulator by pulling the vacuum line. Couldn't see evidence of fuel leakage.
I need to pull the codes but don't know where the diagnostic connector is.... can someone post a pic, or tell me where to find it please?
Don't have a manual either as I've only had the truck a couple days now. I just need to start somewhere.... hopefully getting the fuel problem fixed.
It runs fine other than the poor mileage and a slight stumble on acceleration when cold.... no smoke but it did blow out a lot of soot mixed with the condensation while it was running the other day. since then, no more soot.
thanks, jason
I need to pull the codes but don't know where the diagnostic connector is.... can someone post a pic, or tell me where to find it please?
Don't have a manual either as I've only had the truck a couple days now. I just need to start somewhere.... hopefully getting the fuel problem fixed.
It runs fine other than the poor mileage and a slight stumble on acceleration when cold.... no smoke but it did blow out a lot of soot mixed with the condensation while it was running the other day. since then, no more soot.
thanks, jason
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From: SW Va
Welcome to FTE.
Be sure to check out the "Tech Info" thread atop this forums thread listing page. It has lots of trouble shooting tips & other info, including how to pull the computer trouble codes on your OBD-1 Ranger, if you don't have a scantool with the hook up cables for the OBD-1 system.
With your vintage, pulling codes is a good place to begin your trouble shoot, as they can provide clues on where to begin.
If you don't know the vehicles maintenance history, you might consider beginning by bringing it up to date on scheduled maintenance items, like new fuel & air filters, PCV valve & it's rubber seals & hoses & if it has one, removing & cleaning the MAF sensor, with a non residual spray cleaner like CRC MAF sensor cleaner & maybe cleaning the throttle plate & checking all the vacuum lines for dryrot.
Then do a fuel pressure, engine vacuum & O2 sesnor switching speed check.
By then you should have a fairly good idea of how things are operationally & whats causing the engine stumble at throttle up.
A bunch of thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.
Be sure to check out the "Tech Info" thread atop this forums thread listing page. It has lots of trouble shooting tips & other info, including how to pull the computer trouble codes on your OBD-1 Ranger, if you don't have a scantool with the hook up cables for the OBD-1 system.
With your vintage, pulling codes is a good place to begin your trouble shoot, as they can provide clues on where to begin.
If you don't know the vehicles maintenance history, you might consider beginning by bringing it up to date on scheduled maintenance items, like new fuel & air filters, PCV valve & it's rubber seals & hoses & if it has one, removing & cleaning the MAF sensor, with a non residual spray cleaner like CRC MAF sensor cleaner & maybe cleaning the throttle plate & checking all the vacuum lines for dryrot.
Then do a fuel pressure, engine vacuum & O2 sesnor switching speed check.
By then you should have a fairly good idea of how things are operationally & whats causing the engine stumble at throttle up.
A bunch of thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.
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well i'm not feeling too smart right about now. I can't seem to find that connector. There's 3 of them on the fender near the brake booster and several down on the wheel well below the brake booster, around the ignition coil.
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From: SW Va
21= Engine coolant sensor out of range
24= intake air sensor out of range.
41=Lean fuel control.
So again, have a look in the Tech Info thread on how to check the sensors & systems out.
The 41 Fuel trim code could be a number of things, from a clogged fuel filter, to a weak fuel pump yielding low fuel pressure, to a vacuum leak, to lazy O2 sensors, to injector problems, ect, so you need to do some more trouble shooting to narrow it down.
So read through the Tech Info thread for more trouble shooting info.
Let us know what you find.
24= intake air sensor out of range.
41=Lean fuel control.
So again, have a look in the Tech Info thread on how to check the sensors & systems out.
The 41 Fuel trim code could be a number of things, from a clogged fuel filter, to a weak fuel pump yielding low fuel pressure, to a vacuum leak, to lazy O2 sensors, to injector problems, ect, so you need to do some more trouble shooting to narrow it down.
So read through the Tech Info thread for more trouble shooting info.
Let us know what you find.
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i didn't perform the test properly the first time as i didn't warm up the engine. after warm up this time, i got the all clear code (11) followed by the 41 (lean).
for the koer test, i got code 42 (rich).
I checked the fpr and verified it isn't leaking fuel into the vacuum line.
so i'm only getting those 2 codes. what next? why am i getting 11mpg?
for the koer test, i got code 42 (rich).
I checked the fpr and verified it isn't leaking fuel into the vacuum line.
so i'm only getting those 2 codes. what next? why am i getting 11mpg?
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alright, i used a tire pressure gauge i have to test the fuel pressure. the gauge only reads up to 60 psi. when i checked the pressure it shot up to the max the gauge could read, 60. looks like a new fpr is in order.
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From: SW Va
The code 42 is for a couple of things, one is for a rich air/fuel ratio & the other is for no O2 sensor switching detected. Both could cause your low mpg.
So you need to do a proper KOEO & KOER fuel pressure check with a good gauge attached to the schrader valve & with vacuum applied to the FPR.
Also a O2 sensor switching range & speed check, before you throw a fuel pressure regulator at the problem.
Mose autoparts stores have a fuel pressure test gauge on their loan-a-tool program for a refundable deposit.
If you can come by a scantool, like a Actron CP9150, ect, that has OBD-1 hook up cables, you could monitor the O2 sensors dynamic PID input to the computer & fuel trim PID's.
Other wise you'd have to measure the O2 sensors output with a multimeter.
More thoughts for pondering.
So you need to do a proper KOEO & KOER fuel pressure check with a good gauge attached to the schrader valve & with vacuum applied to the FPR.
Also a O2 sensor switching range & speed check, before you throw a fuel pressure regulator at the problem.
Mose autoparts stores have a fuel pressure test gauge on their loan-a-tool program for a refundable deposit.
If you can come by a scantool, like a Actron CP9150, ect, that has OBD-1 hook up cables, you could monitor the O2 sensors dynamic PID input to the computer & fuel trim PID's.
Other wise you'd have to measure the O2 sensors output with a multimeter.
More thoughts for pondering.
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ok with koeo, fuel psi jumps to about 18 then drops to below 10 after a few seconds.
keor psi climbs to about 95 psi and holds steady. if i remove vacuum from the fpr, there's no change.
strange that its so low at startup because it starts perfectly.
keor psi climbs to about 95 psi and holds steady. if i remove vacuum from the fpr, there's no change.
strange that its so low at startup because it starts perfectly.
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update:
i have the fpr removed except for the fuel line that attaches to the barbed end of the fpr. It appears that this is incorrect according to the autozone manual. can someone verify please?
I don't know how to remove the fuel line from the fpr without destroying it. It looks like there's a fitting missing in my case.....
how can i remove the fuel line without damaging it?
is the fuel line supposed to connect directly to the barbed end of the fpr? i don't think it is, but in this case it appears someone has installed the old fpr incorrectly....
i have the fpr removed except for the fuel line that attaches to the barbed end of the fpr. It appears that this is incorrect according to the autozone manual. can someone verify please?
I don't know how to remove the fuel line from the fpr without destroying it. It looks like there's a fitting missing in my case.....
how can i remove the fuel line without damaging it?
is the fuel line supposed to connect directly to the barbed end of the fpr? i don't think it is, but in this case it appears someone has installed the old fpr incorrectly....
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From: SW Va
Not certain about FP on your 90 model, but the 93 it's 35-45 psi & KOEO. When you start the engine it should drop 3-10 psi.
At idle with vacuum hose attached it's 25-35 psi. & at idle with the vacuum hose off it should rise to 35-45 psi.
Seeing as how the pressure bleeds off quickly & is so high even with vacuum applied (it should drop), it sounds like your huntch about the FPR being bad is right on.
Be sure & check FP again after you replace the FPR. If it won't hold pressure after you turn the engine off, maybe suspect leaky/dirty fuel injectors too.
Let us know what you find.
Edit: Not sure on how to remove the FPR, as I've never had to do one on a Ranger. You might also check the FPR return line to the tank, to make sure it isn't pinched, or clogged up. Maybe change the fuel filter too, if you don't know when it was changed last.
At idle with vacuum hose attached it's 25-35 psi. & at idle with the vacuum hose off it should rise to 35-45 psi.
Seeing as how the pressure bleeds off quickly & is so high even with vacuum applied (it should drop), it sounds like your huntch about the FPR being bad is right on.
Be sure & check FP again after you replace the FPR. If it won't hold pressure after you turn the engine off, maybe suspect leaky/dirty fuel injectors too.
Let us know what you find.
Edit: Not sure on how to remove the FPR, as I've never had to do one on a Ranger. You might also check the FPR return line to the tank, to make sure it isn't pinched, or clogged up. Maybe change the fuel filter too, if you don't know when it was changed last.
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Thanks,
but how do i remove the fuel line from the fpr? it appears someone has incorrectly installed the fuel line directly to the barbed end of the fpr in my case..... thats doesn;t look right to me as it can't be removed without damaging the fuel line.
but how do i remove the fuel line from the fpr? it appears someone has incorrectly installed the fuel line directly to the barbed end of the fpr in my case..... thats doesn;t look right to me as it can't be removed without damaging the fuel line.