I know there has to be someone here with SOLID rear axles and Detroit lockers to answer this question... Ive seen some how to's for IRS and lockers and some for Solid rear axles but they always seem the leave out the explanation on the parts im looking for...

With standard center sections its easy for me to understand how the solid axles are held in.. because the C-clip can be easily put in.. and closed up... but with Detroit lockers ive never seen an explanation of how this is done... most lockers ive seen are fully enclosed all the way around.. like once their bolted together it doesnt look like theres any way to access the inside to put the lil c-clips in... is there some small access port on them where that can be done thats just not shown in any of the pics ive seen? or is it more like when using Detroit lockers you have to put c-clip eliminators on? but from what ive been reading too c-clip eliminators arent good for street use either..

help.. curious and worried i might lose a mod i want in the future...

 

post fixed. ... had problems with it earlier...

 

There are slots in the case / carrier that will allow access for the c-clips to be installed and removed.
Sort of described here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...it_Locker.html

What is the rumor regarding c-clip eliminators?? I have been running an eliminator kit on the streets (12 bolt chebby) for years, I mean a lot of years and have a gazillion miles.
Am I lucky, or is this potential danger just a myth??

 

thanks for that info man...

the rumors id read on other sites about them was that theyre not legal to be used on the street and meant more for track use only...

another rumor i read on them was theyre were bad for having problems with them leaking the axle fluid out of them...

those were the 2 downsides to them that id read about... whether the myths are true or not i dunno...

was something else id read too that the c-clip eliminators are for drum only vehicles because of the way the rear calipers mount.. ive seen mentions of kits for rear disc... but never seen the actual kits... if you wanted to put them on disc brakes using the drum kits ya had to cut the axles and weld the blocks on.. which is something i really dont want to have to do...

but like i said thats just what id read on it... dunno how much of its true and how much or it is just people being afraid.. The leaking part seemed to be pretty common occurrence from the way some of them talked about it...

any pics of your c-clip eliminators?

 

I can see the leak problem but cant see the rest. The leaks are typical of tis style device simply because of the amount of sealing surfaces now. It basically doubles.
Cutting the axle flange is about the only scary part, but in order to be 10 second legal, axle retention was mandatory, so I had to weight the options,,,,,,lose and axle of it breaks, or find some axle retention. Saftey won, so I cut the axle tube, and I have never looked back. I mean, look at the race application, and consider that some pretty fast cars run them, and a leak would net be a good thing. You just have to silicone the backside of the aluminum block, and old axle flange surface. I can teel you that a good seal can be obtained, and it can stay pretty leak free. This upgrade will tell you when the axle bearings are getting tired, as the slight play in the worn bearing will allow fluid to leak past the seal. This is true with or without the eliminators.
I use Three Bond, or Yamabond. Yes the stuff for mortorcycles. You cant beat that stuff, it seals and seals well.

You also mentioned the disc brakes, Depending on the kit you use, you may have to monkey around with the caliper bracket, and play with some spacers to align it perfectly. Strange has kit that allegedly bolts right up, no issues. I dont run an 8.8, so I cant answer this first hand, so please dont take my word for this.
When I installed my gm eliminators, there were no kits for disc brakes available, so I had to make my own stuff, and this was quite a few years ago, and after a gazillon miles, all is still well.

I ca snap some pics of the car, heak it has not been run for a while. Might have to clean it and take it to wrok one day. I am not sure how much you can see.

Oh yeah, as far as your disc brakes, depending on which axle you use, you may have to machine the axle flange itself. I believe I recall some aftermarket axles are too large to fit inside of a rotor hat. Man, that is like going back in time. Hard for this old man to remember what I had for breakfast, and I have to be reminded to put the same color socks on each foot, (thats if I can even remember to put socks on at all, lol) let alone which mods have to be done to perform this.
Now, I just cut the axle up and install ford ends on them, or just use a 9 incher from the beginning. Ha! that makes it easy huh?

Anyway, if you run a locker, it will have provisions for the c-clips, and I would not be too afraid of eliminators.
Have you considered going all out and having the axle tube ends replaced all together, and just indstalling 9 inch ends so you can run that style axle retention?
I believe that is pretty common for 8.8 guys right? Many chebby guys are doing this.

 

im looking all around right now... some ways i wanna just do an 8.8" swap and build it up... since itd be the cheaper route... or go ahead and drop 3K and have 9" built from moser... they got a 9" thats supposively ready made for my stang...

id like to be in the 10 second bracket while keep the car fully street legal... but since i dont have the cash for any of it atm.. im doing all the research while i cant do it.. As much as ive had people try to scare me outta buying a detriot locker i know theyre practically bullet proof.. and according to detroit they have some now that are great for both street and strip.. so ya dont have the tire skipping like ya see on the raised up off road trucks...