Still no braking !!!!!!!!!
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Still no braking !!!!!!!!!
A while ago I took everyones advice and re-did my F350 brakes with Cryo rotors and hawk super duty pads to improve braking performance. Spent a lot of money and the damn thing still doesn't stop for nutt'n. I pull a 14,000 lb boat, and could really use the stoppping power. Even when the truck is empty, it is a poor stopper.
I installed and broke in the pads according to the directions. I even replaced all the slider pins that mount the calipers to make sure there was no binding. The braking performance is absolutely terrible.
The truck is a 2000 V10, 4x4, long box 4 dr SD F350. Any suggestions would be appreciated
I installed and broke in the pads according to the directions. I even replaced all the slider pins that mount the calipers to make sure there was no binding. The braking performance is absolutely terrible.
The truck is a 2000 V10, 4x4, long box 4 dr SD F350. Any suggestions would be appreciated
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I have felt like this with my SD also, put slotted rotors and Hawk pads on, same issues. I wont use Hawk pads anymore because they only lasted about 1 year (not alot of milage either) I asked my mech about it when he inspected it (he looks over 3 fleets of SD with V10's) and he told me that mine stops better than most other SD. If anybody has suggestions for more stopping power, please let us know about it.
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Would it help the situation by installing a hydro-boost system from a diesel ? Or is the Ford Diesel F350 just as hard to stop. I was thinking the rotor diameter is a bit small, but with the twin piston caliper, I would think even a small diameter rotor would stop pretty efficiently.
All I can say is, compared to a GMC, my F350 is very poor when it comes to stopping.
All I can say is, compared to a GMC, my F350 is very poor when it comes to stopping.
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Vancouver BC
A while ago I took everyones advice and re-did my F350 brakes with Cryo rotors and hawk super duty pads to improve braking performance. Spent a lot of money and the damn thing still doesn't stop for nutt'n. I pull a 14,000 lb boat, and could really use the stoppping power. Even when the truck is empty, it is a poor stopper.
I installed and broke in the pads according to the directions. I even replaced all the slider pins that mount the calipers to make sure there was no binding. The braking performance is absolutely terrible.
The truck is a 2000 V10, 4x4, long box 4 dr SD F350. Any suggestions would be appreciated
I installed and broke in the pads according to the directions. I even replaced all the slider pins that mount the calipers to make sure there was no binding. The braking performance is absolutely terrible.
The truck is a 2000 V10, 4x4, long box 4 dr SD F350. Any suggestions would be appreciated
Posting Guru
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A 14000lb boat? I hope you have a triple axle trailer with DAMN good brakes... It should be able to stop itself & the truck !.. As far as the truck system tho, I wonder if the vacum boost is getting bad, I am not familiar with those pads, but i have had a set of Wagners that did not grip well & it took more effort. maybe try diffrent pads?
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From: Vancouver BC
I wonder if oem pads may be better, at least for friction. I know, if the pads are long lasting, then they tend to have more metal content, & dont grab as well. Our gas trucks don`t have that hydro boost system. would it give more boost?
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The Hawk pads are some of the best pads out there. Hawk makes pads for racing (which I've used). They tend to be very predictable, and have a high rate of friction, better than any OE replacement.
The pedal does not feel stiff, like the vacuum booster is bad, it just doesn't seem to stop in direct relationship to the amount of brake pedal "feel". I drive a lot, and in many different vehicles. This thing scares the hell out of me. I was thinking that swapping out the vacuum booster for the hydrualic unit on the diesel would might help, but I have never driven a SD diesel, so I don't have anything to compare it to.
14,000 lbs was not a misprint. I have a 38 foot Formula, SR-382. The boat is 10,400lbs dry, plus 200 gallons of fuel and gear, and the trailer, we're getting close to the 14 grand range. I ordered the trailer with electric over hydraulic disc brakes just because I knew the truck would have a hard time coming to a full stop. I generally jack the trailer brake controller up to compensate for the truck.
I pulled this boat all the way from New York to Wisconsin with a borrowed GMC, and felt comfortable stopping from almost any speed. I want to feel that way with my Ford.
The pedal does not feel stiff, like the vacuum booster is bad, it just doesn't seem to stop in direct relationship to the amount of brake pedal "feel". I drive a lot, and in many different vehicles. This thing scares the hell out of me. I was thinking that swapping out the vacuum booster for the hydrualic unit on the diesel would might help, but I have never driven a SD diesel, so I don't have anything to compare it to.
14,000 lbs was not a misprint. I have a 38 foot Formula, SR-382. The boat is 10,400lbs dry, plus 200 gallons of fuel and gear, and the trailer, we're getting close to the 14 grand range. I ordered the trailer with electric over hydraulic disc brakes just because I knew the truck would have a hard time coming to a full stop. I generally jack the trailer brake controller up to compensate for the truck.
I pulled this boat all the way from New York to Wisconsin with a borrowed GMC, and felt comfortable stopping from almost any speed. I want to feel that way with my Ford.
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
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From: Long Island USA
My '01 with stock brakes stops on a dime. Something's wrong.
I'd see if the brake booster is working correctly.
If you are doing say 30MPH, and slam on the brakes, does the ABS come on? Or does it not even bother?
I have to be careful or the ABS comes on, and that's with 285/75R16's which grip a heck of a lot better than the 235's I had on it brand-new.
I'd see if the brake booster is working correctly.
If you are doing say 30MPH, and slam on the brakes, does the ABS come on? Or does it not even bother?
I have to be careful or the ABS comes on, and that's with 285/75R16's which grip a heck of a lot better than the 235's I had on it brand-new.
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The only time the ABS works is in the snow. I also have 285's on the truck, and thought maybe the increased diameter was adding to the issue, but really doubt the small difference in diameter could cause that big of a problem.
I doubt it's the booster, the pedal is not stiff, and there is a very big difference in pedal pressure with the engine off.
I could push the pedal right through the floor boards and not get a wheel to lock up or a tire to skid on dry pavement with the truck empty, not pulling a trailer.
Yes, the trailer brakes work. If they didn't, there is no way I would chance towing the boat. It would take you a mile to go from 60 to 0. Actually the brakes are very effective. I would reccomend electric over hydraulic discs to anyone pulling a heavy trailer. They are MUCH better than standard electric drum or surge disc.
Could it be a problem with the ABS solenoids or valves not letting full pressure to the caliper ??
I doubt it's the booster, the pedal is not stiff, and there is a very big difference in pedal pressure with the engine off.
I could push the pedal right through the floor boards and not get a wheel to lock up or a tire to skid on dry pavement with the truck empty, not pulling a trailer.
Yes, the trailer brakes work. If they didn't, there is no way I would chance towing the boat. It would take you a mile to go from 60 to 0. Actually the brakes are very effective. I would reccomend electric over hydraulic discs to anyone pulling a heavy trailer. They are MUCH better than standard electric drum or surge disc.
Could it be a problem with the ABS solenoids or valves not letting full pressure to the caliper ??
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RE Ford controller:
Yes, I know, most built in controllers will not operate the electric/hydraulic system. You MUST use the right controller or the trailer brakes will not function.
Actually, if I jack up the trailer brakes, it stops better when towing.
Yes, I know, most built in controllers will not operate the electric/hydraulic system. You MUST use the right controller or the trailer brakes will not function.
Actually, if I jack up the trailer brakes, it stops better when towing.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
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From: Long Island USA
You either have air in the ABS control unit, OR ...
With the Kelsey-Hayes ABS system, the ABS unit has "accumulators" in it. They are basically a piston with a spring behind it, so that when the ABS unit senses wheel lockup, it opens a valve and lets pressure into the accumulator to allow the wheel to unlock and spin again. After that, it closes the valve and pumps pressure back to the wheel and cycles back and forth. This is the ABS system doing it's thing.
However, if the dump valve is stuck open or dirt is stuck in the valve, the accumulator is always taking pressure away from the braking system. This will give you a very low brake pedal, and give you SOME stopping power but not enough to really do anything.
What I would suggest is, bleed the entire system, WITH the right scan tool to cycle the ABS unit correctly. This will get rid of any air in the ABS unit (or anywhere else), and MIGHT dislodge any dirt that's stuck in the valves.
If you bleed the entire system the right way, AND everything else is perfect, the ABS valve unit probably needs to be replaced. You can replace JUST the valve unit without replacing the ABS module (mounted right on the valve unit) nor the pump.
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Oh, and for the record, I had to do this with a 1996 Suburban (same Kelsey-Hayes unit, basically) and bleeding the system correctly did cure the low-pedal issue.
Same thing, no lockup no matter what unless it was on snow or ice. Couldn't panic stop the darn thing neither.
Same thing, no lockup no matter what unless it was on snow or ice. Couldn't panic stop the darn thing neither.