Hi, anybody knows of a convertion kit or something simillar so i can use roller rockers without machining my heads? Or maybe rockers made for pedestals, i hate having to pull a head off again...

Ive heard of some convertion kits but dont remember where...

thanx

 

Ford Racing M-6564-C351 - Ford Racing Pedestal Mount Roller Rocker Arms - summitracing.com

 

If you are building a mild street engine, Crane makes a kit that with studs that screw in the bolt holes and convert to a 3/8" stud. They are not meant for a high RPM racing engine, but work quite well on a street engine with a 5,000 or 5,500 redline is observed.

I used this kit on my 400 when I built it ten years ago and it has served me well. This kit is seen in the Summit catalog.

 

I built my 400 2 months ago, the only thing i didnt change was the rocker arms, i was planning on using shims. The funny thing was that the base circle of my custom comp cam is alot smaller than the stock one, so even though i milled my heads my stock rockers are still loose with no shims, giving me a chattery valve train...


thanx

 

hollenjoe,

That was exactly why I went with the Crane stud kit and adjustable rockers.

 

I believe this is the kit I ordered.

Crane Cams 52655-16 - Crane Rocker Arm Guideplate Conversion Kits - summitracing.com

 

Good kit. I run them on both of my 400's.

 

drof46 is right i bought the same kit for my aussie heads from summit.

 

why the reduced base circle, roller lifters?

stock rockers might be covering for you at the moment, but rollers might find the edge of the valvetip if the pushrod side is too short.

do your lifters get any preload at all with the current pushrods? preload can be determined by how many turns of the bolt after finding zero lash.

 

Try Tmeyer Inc, I think he has rollers that bolt on with no machining.

 

Nope, hydraulic flat tappet lifters, i found my extreme energy cam to have a smaller base circle than a stock cam, so my stock rollers wont even reach 0 lash....


didnt know tim had ones...

 

just buy some aluminum heads and get screw in studs.

 

jajajaj cheap soluton aint it, or maybe longer push rods...

 

I have done the crane conversion kit on a 76 460 (same kit). The Crane stud has a 3/8 that screws into the block and the other end for the rocker nut is a 7/16. The OEM pedestals have a 3/8" bolt that goes through the pedestal and bolts into the head.

I did a cam change (crane 260 adv) but it was a full circle for flat Hyd lifters. The new cam on the OEM rocker/pedestal arrangement made a lot of racket when cranked. I presumed it to be a wear pattern established between the "sled" and its contact point in the rocker arm and the higher lift cam caused the interference between the worn and unworn parts.

I solved the problem with a set of Comp roller tip rockers (1.72) for a BBC. Thats why I had to get the conversion kit, because of the 7/16 stud required for the roller tip fulcrum *****. It did solve the noise problem and was adjustable to boot for pre-load. The conversion kit also has a plate with a "nylon" insert to act as a pushrod guide plate because the OEM pedestal served that function. You either need a guide plate or a "rail" style rocker to keep the pushrod in line. You probably already know that---

With that small base circle cam, (was it a roller lifter cam?) you will have to get longer pushrods. There is a small tool that fits over the stud at the correct angles (supposedly) so you can measure for the correct length pushrods. I ordered my pushrod length checker from Summit and a valve spring highth checker as well--.

 

Scorpion has a kit. I have used a set now for about 5 years and approx 45K miles. Tim Meyer sells them. I have not had any problems. Easy to install.