Electrical Issues
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New User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 18
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From: Central Texas
ok the voltage dosnt appear to drop during those blinks on the lights...I will probably buy a new switch for good measure. they arent expensive.
There is a courtsey light for the lights/wiper switches that im curious about. I found as I was hunting loose ends the power (+) end of that light unplugged. I have no idea where it gets plugged into. The other loose end I found is a black w/2 yellow stripes wire that has a yellow triple (female) plug unused. It powers up with the key. I dont see an immediate place to plug it in so I assume its auxillary use. It was laying to the left of the steering column.
There is a courtsey light for the lights/wiper switches that im curious about. I found as I was hunting loose ends the power (+) end of that light unplugged. I have no idea where it gets plugged into. The other loose end I found is a black w/2 yellow stripes wire that has a yellow triple (female) plug unused. It powers up with the key. I dont see an immediate place to plug it in so I assume its auxillary use. It was laying to the left of the steering column.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Central Texas
Ok. the blinking dash lights have been corrected. they were being back fed thru the instrument voltage stabilizer. The question I had about the end wire that feeds the light/wiper courtesy light is the wire that should feed the whole dash setup. I know it should be connected to the light switch. im assuming that blue wire with red stripe. I tell you what...this electrical stuff is tuff. I want to thank you all who have helped me here. I would have not gotten this far without you.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
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From: Northern California
There is a illumination lamp that lights up the, "Lights" and "Wiper Washer" markings on the instrument cluster bezel. It attaches to the bezel.
The other end of this wire is indeed hooked into the instrument illumination circut.
The other end of this wire is indeed hooked into the instrument illumination circut.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 74
From: Hartford, AL
Yes, you should be able to tie the loose wire/blub into the blue/red wire at the switch or anywhere along the circuit as long as there is power in the circuit. I would have to look at my schematic to remember exactly where that one split off the circuit...maybe where the blue/red comes out of the steering column, or maybe the dash cluster.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
It would be better to tie into the blue/red wire AFTER the three amp fuse.
If you hook into the wire at headlamp switch, this is BEFORE that fuse.
Blue/Red wire goes from Headlamp switch to fuse panel, then to the various lights.
If you hook into the wire at headlamp switch, this is BEFORE that fuse.
Blue/Red wire goes from Headlamp switch to fuse panel, then to the various lights.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 74
From: Hartford, AL
Yeah...true, so if you can't find where that exact one split off, just grab the power side coming out of fuse panel. I think this is the only fuse in the panel that the panel treats basically as an inline fuse, as the power is actually distributed by the headlight switch. All other fuses are hot or switched hot that distribute power. 81 F150 do you recall where that cluster light comes/splits? I was guessing the steering column light or some of the cluster lights? If it is dangling loose, there should be a cut wire somewhere of the same color.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
According to the 1978 wiring diagram, the headlamp switch and windshield wiper and washer control illumination lamp wire comes directly off the fuse panel.
There is one blue/red wire going into the fuse panel from the headlamp switch, and there are two Blue/Red wires coming out of the fuse panel on the "protected" side. One powers the headlamp and washer control lamp only, and the other goes to power the other illumination lamps.
There is one blue/red wire going into the fuse panel from the headlamp switch, and there are two Blue/Red wires coming out of the fuse panel on the "protected" side. One powers the headlamp and washer control lamp only, and the other goes to power the other illumination lamps.
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Central Texas
DONE! Most gauges and all lights are working correctly now! All I can say is thanks everyone for all the help. Patience seemed to be the key. I think i spent more time on here looking up answers and asking questions than actual "work".
So with that being said..."most" gauges refers to my fuel gauge. I went bird hunting and ripped the sending unit wire from the tank off driving thru tall grass. I know where the tank connection is, but never found out where they got hooked to...Now that I'm giving her a makeover i should reconnect. that's it. that's all, then I'm done....for now.
So with that being said..."most" gauges refers to my fuel gauge. I went bird hunting and ripped the sending unit wire from the tank off driving thru tall grass. I know where the tank connection is, but never found out where they got hooked to...Now that I'm giving her a makeover i should reconnect. that's it. that's all, then I'm done....for now.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Central Texas
Absolutely. I have learned quite a bit here already. Not just from "my" issues but from reading threads in general. I've always aspired to do my own work and its nice to have a group willing to help me take pride in that.
I did find my sending unit wires. I grounded them briefly to check if the gauge was working and it did. Just have to buy the connector and plug it back in. I have decided also to buy the instrument cluster backing plate. Mine is so brittle that it breaks every time its touched. My dimmer light housing has completely disentegrated, so its time.
I bought this old truck for $1200. 4 years ago. I replaced every steering component down to the drag link and ball joints. She has since been painted and totally refreshed on the inside. Just trying to get all the annoyances fixed. Funny that I left the stuff I don't really care to do till last...
I did find my sending unit wires. I grounded them briefly to check if the gauge was working and it did. Just have to buy the connector and plug it back in. I have decided also to buy the instrument cluster backing plate. Mine is so brittle that it breaks every time its touched. My dimmer light housing has completely disentegrated, so its time.
I bought this old truck for $1200. 4 years ago. I replaced every steering component down to the drag link and ball joints. She has since been painted and totally refreshed on the inside. Just trying to get all the annoyances fixed. Funny that I left the stuff I don't really care to do till last...
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