Hello.

I am looking at a 1999 F-250 to buy and am looking for the factory specs on HP and tourqe ratings.... Do any of you know this right off?

Also this rig has around 30K on the clock, extended cab, long bed, 4x4, auto. What would be a fair price? KBB says 13,500.00. Does that sound right?


Thanks in advance!

 

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Mike here wrote up a decent piece on what to look for.. as far as the price.. Check the internet, and the paper.. especially if you have like auto trader.. Remember, they will run your car into it sells, you might be able to watch the price drop on a different rruck, then you will know what to offer.. The big thing.. are you happy, and is it what you want to pay..30k i would be looking at with that low of miles..

Good Luck!!!

 

Good info.... Thank you.

How about the HP and Tq?

Anyone?

 

30k is just a baby step for a 7.3, the price is a tad high though. The bad thing is, with that low of mileage you'll probably end up fighting dried up O-rings all over the place more than you would with a truck with more mileage. These trucks like to be used, not to sit.

 

235 hp 505 tq

If the sticker is still on the passenger side valve cover it will have the HP rating there.

 

Thanks guys!!!!

I was thinking the same thing about the sitting thing..... The guy only drives it about 5 times a year and it sits in the garage the rest of the time. I was also thinking I may have to do a complete fluid change on the truck before I take it too far.
The truck is like a 10 year old new truck though and I may have a hard time passing it up. What are some mods I can make to get the HP up around 350 and the Tq arond 650?

Thanks again for the sppedy responces!

 

I was born in South Dakota, I would like to get back there again.. That is a great state.. I would like to do some bird hunting there, and crawl around the bad lands again..well see, 1 day..

 

Turbo, injectors, intake, exhaust, gauges, fuel system upgrades, beef the trans up.

 

Here's a good post by strokin_it_7.3 on the good "baseline" mods for a 7.3

People have all stated their opinion, so i will state mine too. They all have the same logic, more air in, more air out, and less EGT ( exhaust gas temperature).

If you gave me $2000 and said "Here, modify it" this is what i would do. Prices indicate that you install them. or, bring it to me and i would gladly do it for you

- Intake filter- Wix filters - oil filters, biodiesel filters, air filters, and fuel filters from FleetFilter! part 46637($20) or Napa part number 6637-($40)

-Exhaust- Mark Romriell (MKO Diesel performance) 5" exhaust, muffler-less or with a muffler, about $350 shipped, very reasonable in price. Look on ebay for this guy.

-Gauges- If you are good at wiring, you can get the kit and do it your own, all of the wiring and painting of the pod. Kits usually cost $300-350, or if you want to have them ready to slap on and hook up, you can get them pre-wired and all for about $400. Ill figure $400 into the price. I personally prefer the brand of gauges -Autometer, but there are others like DiProcol, Isspro and Spa digital gauges. The common three parameters are EGT temp (pre-turbo), transmission temp, and turbo boost. I bought my gauges from Garrett @ Diesel Performance Parts Power Chips Diesel Exhaust Intake Performance Products

-Now you have the ability to get air in and out and monitor the temperatures, it's time for a chip. The man to call for chips is Jody Tipton at DP-Tuner , he can set you up with a fully customized chip for YOUR truck and yours only. It is much better than a generic tuner or fueling box, such as Edge, Superchip, Bully Dog, and Diablosport. His chips range from one single file for $239, to a an amazing 16 position chip with every imaginable tune on it, for about $40 more per tune. I myself am going to get rid of the TS performance chip i have now, and get a DP tuner 8 or 9 position chip. so, lets say that a 6 position chip will cost around $450. You still have around $750 left after shipping. Want to keep going?

Read on.


-Now you will probably enounter some problems such as throwing a code when you really romp on the pedal. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) thinks that the truck is running a stock program still, so it sees an abnormally high boost level, and it will throw a code. The fix for this is to go to ITP Diesel, LLC , and buy a Overboost Regulator. It is about $45 or so, and it will get rid of this problem.

-Due to that chip adding more power to the engine, it has to force that power through the same transmission, that is not designed to handle the extra power. Call up Brian at BTS (brianstruckshop.com), and set up a custom-made transmission Valve Body. They run about $225, and if you tell Brian that you are running a Tipton chip, he can modify it custom for that chip. Also, tell Jody that you will be getting a BTS valve body (here we commonly call it a "BTS VB"), and he can tune the chip for the VB as well.

-A comfort mod is next, not one that produces power, but it makes the engine run smoother and quieter. there is a thing that is called a Stainless Steel High pressure Oil rail Crossover. It is a tube that adjoins the two oil rails (oil that is used to fire the injectors, 500psi-3000psi), and it acts as a shock absorber to make all 8 cylinders have relatively the same pressure. It is more expensive than a rubber version, but it's going to last forever, it's about $70. I believe you can get that at ITP when you buy that overboost regulator.

-Another comfort mod is to eliminate the quick-disconnect fittings on the suction-side of the fuel pump. The factory design has a crappy "mixing chamber" inside the tank, that lets air in the fuel, and the air in the fuel will cause the injectors to become louder, and it also shortens their life. Removing the Q/D's will also help prevent air from entering, as they work well under pressure, not so well under a suction. I believe this $40-70 mod can be purchased at ITP as well, a filter will be about $105 if added to the kit.

we have about $350 left.

-Your stock compressor wheel in the turbocharger will probably be hating life, as it tends to reach it's limit very quickly on the air it can push out of the turbo and into the engine, and it will shoot that air back out of the compressor, commonly called "surge". a cure for this is to install an aftermarket compressor wheel, designed to reduce or stop surge. it can be found cheapest at Xtreme Diesel Performance - XDP Diesel Performance Parts , for about $55.

While you are spending all of this money, i thought it would be nice to do some free or really cheap mods:

-rerouting the crankcase vent (CCV) to the atmosphere. the stock system reroutes this into the intake of the engine, and it's a dirty mess, as oil will seep out of the intercooler boots. You can do this mod for about $15, and the only thing i needed was a piece of 4" exhaust pipe, about 4" long, to replace the piece you remove. To get the gasses away from the engine, run a piece of 1/2" heater hose to whatever length you want it. I grew tired of the infamous cloud of mist coming out from under the truck, so i tied mine into my stacks. Look at the connector that is between your two rubber intake boots between the air filter and the turbo, you'll see what i mean.

Also, a FREE mod is to remove the foil on the driver's side intercooler pipe. It helps that whistle get a little louder, and it has no adverse affects. Disclaimer: it's a royal pain to get that stuff off. Let's spend some more money.

Some things that you want to keep track of, are transmission temps, and EGT temps. the transmission can get hot, so if you browse Ebay, you can get a 6.0L's transmission cooler (NEW) for about $100-125. installation is easy, several guys here have done it. The stock transmission cooler on these trucks sucks. I believe it is about the size of a keyboard. This new one is three times that size.

To reduce the EGT, a wise decision is to install another 6.0 part, this time an intercooler. It's a direct drop in, and some guys see a reduction in EGT of 100-150*, for about $100-150, again off ebay.

Well, i think this about depletes your fund. You will be out $2000, however the benefit in performance, and the massive grin on your face all the time is well worth the cost

 

I do love living here! I have moved around and tried a few things but this is home for me. If you are in the area and what to go bird hunting or summer fishing PM me and maybe we could make it happen. I spend as much time as the wife lets me out doors...

 

Thanks for the heads up SUPERDUTY... That is a good read and well thought out. What do you suppose the end Hp & Tq would be after making all the mods?

You always here that when you make an engine put out more power you shorten the life of it.... Do you think this applies in this situation? The reason I ask is I have a 6.6 That puts out more power and Tq than the 7.3 but I think the 7.3 is a heavyer duty motor. So why then would hetting the 7.3 more up to the power of the current motors be a bad thing?

 

The 7.3 is built as a workhorse, not a race car. Get over about 400 hp without some major internal motor work and you'll put a window in the block, especially if you buy a later build truck with PMR's. You can safely up the hp to around that 400hp point, but above that and you are usually on borrowed time (even though I do know of a 330k/PMR 02 truck with some major power and no windowed block yet).

 

How can I tell if this truck is the 99 or 99.5 I have been reading about?

 

on the 99 model it says v8.....i think on the 99.5 and up is when it went to the long badge that says powerstroke......

 

look at the door sticker

any thing built before 12/7/98 is the early 99...far to many people swap parts and badges to go by that....