Can someone be kind enough to tell me how to replace this joint, it looksbroken, it has a lot play an I have a terrible vibration coming from the rear

 

all it takes is a pair of needle nose pliers for the little odd shaped rings (can't think of what their called right now) then use a hammer and punch. at least thats how i do it.

 

that looks real bad by the way. and be careful when putting the new one in that the litle rollers stay alond the outside rim. if not you won't be able to get it all the way back together. i learned the hard way on an 87 6.9

 

thank so much!, I was wondering about those rings, is this a part that the local parts store would carry?(the joint)

ps: I don't have to take the torx screws out?

 

Yes you do ,,take the drive shaft out & work on it on the bench

 

You can also use a large c-clamp and either a socket or other cylindrical shaped hard object and press the u-joint out. You put a socket that is larger than the u-joint cap on the bottom of the driveshaft and use another socket that is smaller than the u-joint cap on the top and slowly press it out. The hammer method also works well.

 

snap-ring??

 

The hardest part is removing the Torx head bolts that hold the caps on. Red thread stuff from the factory.

If you don't have a 3/8 air ratchet or gun you may want to put a little heat on them. That may help loosen them up a bit. Can't remember what size Torx it was. Get a cap kit with your new u-joint. It will have normal bolts to replace the Torx heads. Always put new caps on when replacing a u-joint that uses them. U bolts are OK to reuse (or so I've been told). Careful with the end play on the pressed in sides. You need to relieve the pressure on the end caps or you'll be doing this again soon.

Sorry for the windy reply.

Pete

 

looks like your shock is leaking. or something else is getting oil on the shock and sway bar might want to change them for better ride also..

 

change both your ujoints at the same time, im changin mine today i have an intermitten vibration that is just enough to make the shifter rattle and drive you crazy. and lube up the slip joint while ya got it out

 

I am having a hell of a time with this repair, finally got the old one out grrrr#@$%^%$#futs boy that was hard!

now i am having a hell of a time putting it back toguether, already messed up one ujoint when I was trying to put the new caps back in the needle bearings fell on the floor. I tried a c clamp but can't get enough pressure? will look for a stronger c clamp that you can put a wrench to.

any ideas?

ps: I looked at removing the whole dshaft but the only way is to take apart another ujoint at the tranny

 

You can slip the u-joint into the yolk with the caps started, and then use a c-clamp to start the caps in the yolk. Make sure you have grease in the caps to hold the roller bearings in place. Not too much, just enough to hold them in place. I guess you already figured that out though. A good c-clamp should be enough to get the caps flush with the yolk. Then you will likely need a hammer and punch, or socket. Many a socket have been destroyed using them this way. You will need to drive the caps in so you can get the snap rings in place. Be careful not to damage the snap ring grove. If this thing is really giving you fits, you can remove the driveshaft and take it to a driveline shop and have them do it for you. If you should go that route, you may want them to replace all the u-joints, and balance the driveshaft. You will need to drop the carrier bearing to do this also. If you want it balanced, they need the entire driveshaft, from tranny/transfer case to axle. When re-installing, ask them how to properly re-install it. You want all the u-joints to be lined up straight from tranny to axle. By the way, the u-joint at the tranny should be held in place with straps too. Install new straps there as well if you go that route.

 

Go, if you are still working on it relax. It's not too bad. But if you are still fighting it under the truck, your going about it wrong. Pull the shaft out of the truck. Take the 2 carrier bearing bolts out, I think they are 15mm. Then the shaft will slip out of the tailhousing of the tranny or transfercase if it's 4x4. Take it to the bench, or concrete, whatever you have to work on.

For removal, at the rear yoke, the one that's tore up. Take the free caps off. Discard them. That joint is gone. I can't believe it actually didn't fly out of the truck. Next, take the snap rings out from the top of the caps. Find something solid to rest the sholder of the yoke on. Not the driveshaft tube, the shoulder. Rest it as close to the edge of the machined surface the caps slip through, but not on it. Take a large bolt about 4 inches long, or maybe a brass drift punch. Something almost as big as the cap. Take a 2lbs hammer and start whacking. Drive the opposite cap out. Most times the cap you are hitting won't come out the center of the yoke with the cross. So you have to drive it back out the original side with the bolt, but with no cap on the side you are now hitting.

Once you have the joint out clean the insides of the yoke surface that holds the caps with scotch brite and carb cleaner. The shineyer you have this surface the easier it is to get the new cap in. No, it won't just slide in...EVER.

Place the first cap in the yoke, don't hit it yet. Now, place the cross in the middle of the yoke with one of it's ears in the cap you are trying to install. You won't be able to get the cross all the way in the cap. But it will go in there enough so that when you start tappping it in, the bearings wont fall out. You have to hold the cross in the cap while you are hitting it. But hold it loosely so when you hit it and it moves, it doesn't knock the cross out of your hand, and scatter the bearings. For this tap in process, I like to use a small ball peen hammer. Tap it in far enough for the snap ring to go in. And install the snap ring.

Now, repeat the process on the opposite side, holding the cross in the cap, but be mindfull that some is still sticking in the cap you just installed. Cuz once you start tapping the other cap, the bearings from the first cap will want to come out. So just do the best you can. If there is ample grease in the caps, they will take a pretty good whack without losing the bearings. But if you start driving the second cap in and you can't see the snap ring grove and it stops moving..... a bearing has fallen. You need to have a bench vice to get it out at this point. But we won't do that, so I won't go into how to get it out.

Now, you have both caps in and discover that the second snap ring won't go in cuz the cap isn't in far enough. But you CAN see the grove. Well, the yoke itself is stressed. How you relieve it is this. Take your 2lbs hammer and hit the shoulder of the yoke a few times. (The shoulder, not the cap surface, and not the driveshaft tube, the shoulder.) This will unstress the yoke enough to get the ring in.

That should get you going. And you can just repeat it on the other joints. But above all, make sure what you are resting on while beating it is not a critical surface i.e. the ds tube, or cap surface. And finally, make dam sure those snap rings are in place. Some will be tighter than others. I like to take a small flat blade screwdriver and use it as a punch to force the snap rings in their groves as far as possible.

Good luck man, I hope that helps some. And I'm sure I overlooked something. And this isn't the best method, but I've used it time and time again on more joints than I care to count.

 

Ok, I asked my buddy who has a tranny shop, and he explained to me how there is a spline before the carrier bearing and the shaft pulls right out. Did that took, the whole shaft to him, they pressed a new joint , and I am back in business!!!!!!!Thans ev'one for your help and concern

 

You're back on the road. That's what's important. Glad to here.