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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 10:20 PM
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Coolant Leak...

A while back ago I flushed out the coolant and put in some red elc, and put a billet housing on with the 203 stat. Started her up, no leaks good. Drove it, no leaks good and was like that for a couple days. Then it started leaking a little from the housing so I figure I did not put it on good enough. Later on I got a new stat o-ring and resealed the housing again with a light coat of grey silicone. No leaks on startup and test drive, and for a couple days good. Now... leaking again. I must be doing something wrong but dont know what, or its something else. The water pump. I think it might be my water pump leaking, but seems to be from the top and kinda weird. I have some pictures need some input. Much appreciated.



 
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 11:19 PM
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Could the water pump be leaking and the pulley throwing it up
Look good on the bottom of pump at the weep hole
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 08:21 AM
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Took me 3 tries to get my billet housing to stop leaking. On the last time, I uses the red RTV and tightened the bolts down going back and forth to each bolt turning them very little at a time. No leaks now. I didn't have that much coolant coming out as you have there. You may have other problems. Clean it up and it would be easier to fine the leak.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 09:02 AM
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Be sure to check the oring under the temp sender.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 09:23 AM
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I think the best way to find the leak would be to clean it all up so there's no leftover red anywhere, physically remove the fan, then fire it up. That fan throws the coolant everywhere making it very difficult to pinpoint the leak. Mine was leaking out the weep hole but I had coolant up top like you do. Ditch the fan for a 10min test drive and you should know exactly where to find your leak.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 09:53 AM
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i too am tackling this pesky little annoyance and i think i got it whipped. how tight are you tightening the housing bolts? they are supposed to be at 18 ft lbs. i know i wasnt tightening mine that tight until this last time. its actually tighter than you think it might be and in the process i broke one of my ss bolts that i had in there. thank God the break was above the housing so i just unscrewed it with my fingers and put a new one in but make sure you torque them right....
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by indyF-350psd
i too am tackling this pesky little annoyance and i think i got it whipped. how tight are you tightening the housing bolts? they are supposed to be at 18 ft lbs. i know i wasnt tightening mine that tight until this last time. its actually tighter than you think it might be and in the process i broke one of my ss bolts that i had in there. thank God the break was above the housing so i just unscrewed it with my fingers and put a new one in but make sure you torque them right....
CAUTION. I had my old water pump on the bench and was removing these bolts. They snap off very easily. Fortunately for me the old water pump is where they broke. Grade 5 bolts will break easily. When you tighten and it gets hard to turn they are bottomed out and more turning will just make you

I used silicon sealer on the flange and a new oring gasket then tightened them evenly around until the flange snugged up square. Then tightened fully.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 10:34 AM
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I got lucky, my thermostat housing bolts came out with no problem. Want them to come out easy next time, especially if you put on the billet housing? Use Loc-tite or something similar. It will do what the name says, and lock them in. but it also helps to keep threads clean & not corroded. Yep, it helps to seal out moisture so when you go to remove them the next time, it's easier than expected.

And you can get the replacement bolts from your local IH dealer too. They're not too pricey and it's not a bad idea to have them handy, just in case.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by papadelogan
I got lucky, my thermostat housing bolts came out with no problem. Want them to come out easy next time, especially if you put on the billet housing? Use Loc-tite or something similar. It will do what the name says, and lock them in. but it also helps to keep threads clean & not corroded. Yep, it helps to seal out moisture so when you go to remove them the next time, it's easier than expected.

And you can get the replacement bolts from your local IH dealer too. They're not too pricey and it's not a bad idea to have them handy, just in case.

I used neverseize which also prevents corrosion and makes them easier to remove.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 11:38 PM
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So today drove it to work and parked it on a pretty level surface. My driveway is sloped so the truck was pointing downward. Anyways, when I got to work i popped the hood to check it out and everything was dry except in the back of the thermostat housing was a little wet. At lunch I went out and cleaned it up, came out after work and it was still dry. Came home and parked backwards so the front is up, and we will see what happens. It looks like its coming from the back side of the stat housing.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 11:43 PM
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Can you pressure up the rad tank then use shop air and blow off the area you think is leaking.This will aid in finding the leak for you.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by mind
So today drove it to work and parked it on a pretty level surface. My driveway is sloped so the truck was pointing downward. Anyways, when I got to work i popped the hood to check it out and everything was dry except in the back of the thermostat housing was a little wet. At lunch I went out and cleaned it up, came out after work and it was still dry. Came home and parked backwards so the front is up, and we will see what happens. It looks like its coming from the back side of the stat housing.
Thats where mine was leaking. I made sure to tighten the back bolt first and it never leaked again. Knock on wood. . I also changed the factory clamp with a good SS worm gear clamp. Look at the hose too.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 08:38 AM
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I can't answer for the 203 thermostat, but a new one form motorcraft has the rubber gasket around the edge of the thermostat. I had a leaking housing on my 97 after replacing the water pump. I picked up a new thermostat housing and thermostat. I noticed the thermostat had the O-ring placed around the outside edge of the thermostat and they told me that it was an updated thing Ford did to help prevent leaks. The factory thermostat housings probably should be replaced when you replace the thermostat. Haven't had a problem for over a year.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by CampSpringsJohn
I can't answer for the 203 thermostat, but a new one form motorcraft has the rubber gasket around the edge of the thermostat. I had a leaking housing on my 97 after replacing the water pump. I picked up a new thermostat housing and thermostat. I noticed the thermostat had the O-ring placed around the outside edge of the thermostat and they told me that it was an updated thing Ford did to help prevent leaks. .
That's the way the original one was in mine and the new ford one also
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 04:19 PM
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I ended up putting two clamps on my new hose as well where it mates to the housing to fix a pesky tiny leak.
 
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