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A while back I think I damaged the carburetor on my 1985 Bronco 2 2.8 liter 5-Speed. While preparing for a 1000 mile trip, I noticed the carb was leaking a little fuel from the accelerator rod thing sticking out of the carb. I took it off thinking it was just a bad seal that could be easily fixed. The seals did not look that bad and I put it back on. The problem started after I put it back on. It would be almost impossible to start and would have to be run at a very high RPM or it would die.
Now it no longer starts.
I'm thinking that I killed of the carb. I would like to get it fixed as I'm building it into a little off-road vehicle. I'm hoping it could be an easy fix as I can't seem to find any replacement carburetors.
Have you already done any modifications to the vehicle (i.e. Duraspark ignition, aftermarket carb, 4-bbl intake, etc.)? You should still be able to get either a rebuild kit or parts for the OEM carb. I believe the defective part is called the 'accelerator pump' and more than likely, the diaphragm has a hole in it. Does the internal part of it look anything like this:
If so, Advance / Shuck's / Kragen should be able to get your part for you. They also offer rebuilt carbs and carb kits and other parts.
If you plan on doing any modifications, especially to the engine, for offroad, I can post up more info for that. Hope this helps
Have you already done any modifications to the vehicle (i.e. Duraspark ignition, aftermarket carb, 4-bbl intake, etc.)? You should still be able to get either a rebuild kit or parts for the OEM carb. I believe the defective part is called the 'accelerator pump' and more than likely, the diaphragm has a hole in it. Does the internal part of it look anything like this:
If so, Advance / Shuck's / Kragen should be able to get your part for you. They also offer rebuilt carbs and carb kits and other parts.
If you plan on doing any modifications, especially to the engine, for offroad, I can post up more info for that. Hope this helps
That looks about right.
What kind of price range would I be looking at for the parts?
I'm not planning on much modifications as I can't really afford them. I'll probably open up the front end for some more airflow at the slow speeds to keep the engine a little cooler as it likes to warm up.
I'm basically building it into a troop transport for our local paintball teams and such.
All depends on what you're wanting to do, mild to wild and such. Even in stock form with the right tires, these things are not bad little rigs. Even a mild lift can be done without too much expense, depending on what you want to do. There are also some things you can do for that warm-running engine as well, that aren't too costly. Has the engine or cooling system ever been touched other than routine maintenance that you know of? When was the last time the cooling system was flushed, thermostat checked or replaced, etc.? There are a few little quirks to the 2.8 (and 2.9) that can be worked around for a fairly inexpensive investment to avoid problems down the road. I guess it all depends on what you can spend and what you want to do - not that everything has to be done all at once, you can always budget things and do them in phases.
All depends on what you're wanting to do, mild to wild and such. Even in stock form with the right tires, these things are not bad little rigs. Even a mild lift can be done without too much expense, depending on what you want to do. There are also some things you can do for that warm-running engine as well, that aren't too costly. Has the engine or cooling system ever been touched other than routine maintenance that you know of? When was the last time the cooling system was flushed, thermostat checked or replaced, etc.? There are a few little quirks to the 2.8 (and 2.9) that can be worked around for a fairly inexpensive investment to avoid problems down the road. I guess it all depends on what you can spend and what you want to do - not that everything has to be done all at once, you can always budget things and do them in phases.
I'm not planning on lifting it anytime soon. I have road tires on it with a fairly aggressive tread (for street tires). Its not going to have too bad of off-road as there is some trails and the top speed is only going to be about 5MPH. Its going to be a Scenario Paintball vehicle and will be traveling through the fields.
I'm planning on building a scaled down version with by raising the roof and keep the vehicle street legal.
The cooling system was flushed just before I killed it by taking the carb part off. I flushed it a year before that and replace the thermostat with a 160* one.
This morning, I gutted most of the inside as it had extensive water and mold damage. Water is getting on the roof (inside) and cause some rust.
The plan so far is to weld in a steel frame, raise the roof a couple feet (to make it more comfortable when I install side mounted bench seats) with a slant down from the drivers seat to the windshield to be more aerodynamic.
My main goal is to just get it running again and then I can work on everything else later as I have virtually no budget for this build.
Just my $.02, but after a few 're-build kits',I wanted to have the entire carb really rebuilt; dipped, new needle valve seats....etc. A few years back, I found a guy in Shineshine Beach, Fl. that did it for $150.00 He did a GREAT JOB. When I got it back, it was so clean I thought he spray painted it sliver!! LOL I bolted that puppy right on and w/ a small adjustment, my truck fired up and has been running like a top ever since....... Just an option....
Using a standard 'over the counter' rebuild kit, I'd say about 45 mins or less. It is pretty much just taking the carb apart and keeping all the parts straight so you know where they go back. In years past, the auto parts chain stores used to sell a little can that was a small parts cleaning kit(1.5 gals) You could disassemble and then soak ur parts before rebuilding. I don't think you can buy that anymore,EPA regs and stuff. I used carb cleaner and rebuilt. It's not hard at all. Just take ur time and make sure you have a nice clean work area. Maybe lay down a white sheet to make sure you don't miss the small springs and stuff. HOPE this helps a bit.....
Sounds simple enough. In the past I heard from some it was easy to do and from others that I would need a lot of specialized equipment so I was hesitant to get a rebuild kit.
Carbs aren't that difficult, but if the jets are thrashed, that may have to be done by a shop or someone who has the tools to do it, unless you can afford a rebuilt carb so you don't have to mess with it. One other thought, though: Not sure if the 2.8 is like the 2.9 and 'prefers' to have a 180* thermostat or not. I've never seen a radiator mod done before, but I do know that you can use a 1st Gen Explorer radiator for a 2.9 for extra cooling capacity. The more expensive options are a direct-fit all-aluminum radiator (Be Cool) or fitting a universal all-aluminum radiator from Summit or Jegs (I believe you want the cross-flow 22x19 with the appropriately located inlet and outlet - I would have to find the part #s).
There are other engine mods you can do, and most of them are addressed here: Ford Ranger/Bronco II 2.8 liter Engines. Another popular drivetrain upgrade is to swap in 1st Gen Explorer / Mountaineer / Navajo front and rear axles and drivelines (Dana 35 TTB/Ford 8.8), but you'd have to find one and ****** the parts up quick as a lot of Jeep folks want the 8.8 rear axles, too. I think you can also use 2nd Gen axles, as long as they are TTB front and 8.8 rears, but the only things you would have to do, since it's not entirely bolt-in are to relocate the spring perches to the top of the 8.8 axle and put lower shock mounts on in the stock location. Most lift kits for Rangers, BIIs and Explorers will fit, to my knowledge, but it all depends on how high you want to lift it and how much $$$ you can spend. Just some more food for thought.
> I can't seem to find any replacement carburetors.
FWIW: The 2150 came on a lot of vehicles including some V-8s. I probably will be buying a junk 1985 B2 this weekend and one of the first things I will probably do is rebuild the carb. They are not that tough, just keep the parts in order. You can get one gallon cans of carb cleaner at Advance Auto to soak things, the carb will fit into a large coffee can.
a thrashed jet? What the hell is that? a Jet is a non-moveable piece inside a carb. Unless you break one removing it, they never wear out . ?????????????
> I can't seem to find any replacement carburetors.
FWIW: The 2150 came on a lot of vehicles including some V-8s. I probably will be buying a junk 1985 B2 this weekend and one of the first things I will probably do is rebuild the carb. They are not that tough, just keep the parts in order. You can get one gallon cans of carb cleaner at Advance Auto to soak things, the carb will fit into a large coffee can.
Hang on, The 2150 in the ranger/B2 is a 2150A feedback computer controlled carb. I would suggest a rebuilt if you are keeping it stock, the rebuild kits dont contain the electrical parts and there reliability after 25 years is suspect. However if you are NOT keeping it stock a 2100 or 2150 std. can be used.
a thrashed jet? What the hell is that? a Jet is a non-moveable piece inside a carb. Unless you break one removing it, they never wear out . ?????????????
Fuel filters stop 100% of the contaminants in fuel from reaching your engine. Fuel injectors never clog. Yeah, I thought I would add two statements that everyone knows are false to add to the plausibility of your post. I've had to replace worn idle and main jets. Most people usually just turn the carb in as a core for a rebuilt unit when they are that far gone or don't feel like rebuilding themselves.