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'64 F100 Advice?

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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 01:56 AM
  #1  
crbryant64's Avatar
crbryant64
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'64 F100 Advice?

Hey,
I've got a 1964 F100. I'm just trying to get an idea on work/pricing for it.

Body
The body doesn't have too much rust. There's a dent in the left side panel, and a tree fell on it and crushed the body in between the windshield and the hood, right on the antenna. Two spots rusted through on the top right above the doors. I want to get those fixed and get the whole body/frame stripped and repainted. What am I looking for in cost and labor. I would want to do as much as I can myself, but I don't have the tools for that sort of thing.

Engine/Transmission
Right now I've got a 292 V8 with a stock transmission in it. But it's in bad shape. There was some damage to the pistons and the interior of the engine. I got it rebuilt, and it runs, but it's not pretty and I'm pretty sure I want to put something else in there. What kind of work/price would I be looking at for if I wanted to put a 289 or 302 with fuel injection in it, or would I be better off putting another 292 in there? With a 289/302 I know I'd have to do some body work to reallign the supports, since the 292 has the front mount, and the rear is on the bell housing. And I'd need a new transmission. Has anyone done this kind of conversion before? Also. If I stayed with a 292, what would I be looking at for rebuilding the transmission.

I know labor varies, I'm just looking for a general estimate. Anything you guys can let me know would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 02:08 AM
  #2  
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Scifi266
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Generally you won't need to rebuild a stick unless you feel like it.
Fuel injection is an adventure you don't want to get into believe me. If you would like to have another 292 I have one you could have. With a 292 it would just be a drop in so it would be very easy to do on your own.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 06:40 AM
  #3  
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ddavidv
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This may come across as a rude answer, but I don't intend it as such. It's just me being honest.

If you cannot do the work yourself, sell that truck and buy one finished. You are going to spend far more fixing that one up, more than it will ever be worth. The questions you ask tell me that you are not experienced in auto restoration. Lots of people like you out there with great intentions but no grasp on the painful reality.

The body repairs and painting will set you back a minimum of $3000-$5000. That is without pulling the body from the frame. Yes, others will chime in how they got their buddy to paint it for them for $500 or something, but that's not reality for most people. Just finding someone willing to work on a project like that is difficult, as most body shops want nothing to do with restoration work.

The mechanical upgrades, while easier, will still cost you. Another engine/trans combo, even used, will be what? $1000-$2000? Labor to install and the tedious process of fabbing the various linkages and updating the wiring quickly escalates the cost. Again, not a big deal for a DIYer (and the how-to is easily found here by using the SEARCH function) but if the work isn't the hobby for you, just owning the truck is, I again suggest you buy the truck you want vs the one you have now.

You can find a cruise-night show quality finished truck pretty easily for $5000-$7000, the amount you will quickly spend on yours, without all the hassle and the years it will take to get the project finished.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 08:20 AM
  #4  
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Flyn66dtmn
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From: Montana
I agree with DDAVIDV . the comment you made of a tree on the cab. $1000.00 to repair at least. may need a new cab. FWIW. it took me 3 years and $7000.00 to restore my 66. except for the new engine i did all the work myself so you can figure another 7-10 thousand for labor if you have all the work done. most of the gentlemen and ladies on this site do it as a hobby and the love the truck itself. just something to think about before you start puting money into your truck. Dutch
 
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 01:32 PM
  #5  
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I'm just looking for information. I'm not interested in a truck in general, this one was my great-great grandfather's and on top of that it has other personal value to me.
Thanks for the honesty DDAVIDV. To clarify, the tree was a small one, and the damage was limited to about a foot by half foot area. It didn't damage either the hood or the windshield. If I can bang out the dents what kind of work am I looking at for repairing/bondoing it, etc.
Thanks for the offer Scifi266, but I'm in Iraq for another six months. Right now I'm just looking for advice, experience, etc.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 04:03 PM
  #6  
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SJ Bikesaws
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From: Sunspot NM, USA
Paint jobs always depend on many factors. Who does it, what its painted with, how much you want painted, how much work needs to be done, etc. You are looking at an easy couple grand. The paint labor might cost more than the body work.

My best advice is to start piddling with it when you get back and do as much as you can yourself. Heck, you might even have a knack for it. It wouldn't even hurt to pick up a spray gun and a respirator and go as far as shooting the primer. If that was easy enough for you keep going. Did you ever here the story about the guy who designed a cog driven clock in his head while in prison then actually built it when he got out, it supposedly kept great time too. Thanks for serving BTW.

Advice from somebody who has shot allot of paint, lacquer is the easiest and most forgiving and a good place to start. Enamel isn't much tougher to shoot but it is less forgiving if you get some bad spots. Emron or other urethane based paints are the best strength wise but a base clear system is tough for a first timer and you don't want to breathe that $#iT. The internet is great now days, just look up info on welding sheet metal, body filler, and paint systems. You might even come back as an expert on the subject.

For me its was no brainer. Either pick up a wire feed welder, an angle grinder, an HVLP rig, a respirator, body hammers, and some sanding boards or pay someone to do it. Since I'm a poor boy I decided that I only wanted to pay a couple grand one time and get the next one done for "free".
 
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 04:37 PM
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Customcab
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I agree with the others about comparing repair verse buying turn key truck. If I understand, your major damage is located on or about your antenna? This area is fixable, but banging it out is near too impossible, I recommend if I had damaged there, to fine a donor truck 65 or 66 model, cut out this section and weld it into. Granted I 've havn't seen this truck or able to fully understand the damaged area. But its sounds like its vicinty of the cowl and these aren't as easy as early 70's style chevy cowls to remove. I could be wrong.
All trucks are worth keeping, but exspense is so mean....... I've done about 85% of my 65 model and have recepits for close to 13K in it. I got the body work & paint done for under $1300. Can be seen in my galllery
Granted I replace alot / just about all chrome and trim avaiable so cost is determine by level of restore as well.
As others mention; thanks for serving, our prayers are with you all. Got a nephew in Iraq now with the 82nd.
Keep reading the post and you'll get vauable info and ideals as well.

Mitch
 
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 06:45 PM
  #8  
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drof46
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I'm in about $4000-$5000 for my project so far. I'm about $700 away from having the frame just the way I want it. Powder coated, wheel base adjusted, drop shackles, dream beams, all new bushings, king pins, new calipers, rotors, new front and rear bearings, springs, sway bars, new brake lines, 4.11 rear end with trac loc, etc... Plus that includes a rebuilt engine and a lot of pretty stuff to bolt on. I haven't even started on the truck. It all depends on how much you want to spend on your project. I'll probably be in about $12-15 thousand when done. Thing about it is I will have a new truck when done. Not many trucks you can drive off the lot for $12-$15K nowadays. Plus if the engine craps out I'll just pull it and drop in another rebuilt one and switch over all the pretty stuff to the next engine and keep driving.

I will be covering the cab fuel hole. I plan to go to a scrap yard and find a poor truck and cut out the cab section from the passenger side to cover the fill hole. You can do the same with your cowl.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 07:39 PM
  #9  
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I just got my grandfathers 64 ford f100 flairside in July 2008 and haven't had a chance to do much with it besides buying components I'll need for the restore. I've gotten it running, but it's not anywhere near road worthy yet. I figure that it will take an easy 8 to 10k just to get it looking half way decent and mechanically sound. I plan on doing as much as I can myself, but will need outside help. Take your time with it and learn as you go. Good luck with your project.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 09:59 AM
  #10  
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ddavidv
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OP: since this is a family heirloom, I'd recommend doing as much as you can yourself. I would not be stuck on the idea of 'restoration' so much as simply making it presentable and usable. Pulling out the cowl area is probably best left to a professional. Without photos of the damage, it's nigh impossible to really give you any idea on any costs. When you get back, post up some photos and I'm sure we can render some opinions.

re: paint. The old school guys swear by lacquer, but the fact is nobody uses it anymore, not the least of which are the safety aspects. Nothing wrong with enamel. Body shops are using it every day with excellent results.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 05:56 PM
  #11  
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66fdtrucknut
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From: Eastern Shore, Md.
I agree with the above, started my project, prob. have 3 k in it, got tired of not having one to drive. Came upon a uni already done and bought it, haven't touched the 65' since. So think about how far you want to tear it down.
Charlie
 
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