'64 F100 Advice?
I've got a 1964 F100. I'm just trying to get an idea on work/pricing for it.
Body
The body doesn't have too much rust. There's a dent in the left side panel, and a tree fell on it and crushed the body in between the windshield and the hood, right on the antenna. Two spots rusted through on the top right above the doors. I want to get those fixed and get the whole body/frame stripped and repainted. What am I looking for in cost and labor. I would want to do as much as I can myself, but I don't have the tools for that sort of thing.
Engine/Transmission
Right now I've got a 292 V8 with a stock transmission in it. But it's in bad shape. There was some damage to the pistons and the interior of the engine. I got it rebuilt, and it runs, but it's not pretty and I'm pretty sure I want to put something else in there. What kind of work/price would I be looking at for if I wanted to put a 289 or 302 with fuel injection in it, or would I be better off putting another 292 in there? With a 289/302 I know I'd have to do some body work to reallign the supports, since the 292 has the front mount, and the rear is on the bell housing. And I'd need a new transmission. Has anyone done this kind of conversion before? Also. If I stayed with a 292, what would I be looking at for rebuilding the transmission.
I know labor varies, I'm just looking for a general estimate. Anything you guys can let me know would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Fuel injection is an adventure you don't want to get into believe me. If you would like to have another 292 I have one you could have. With a 292 it would just be a drop in so it would be very easy to do on your own.
If you cannot do the work yourself, sell that truck and buy one finished. You are going to spend far more fixing that one up, more than it will ever be worth. The questions you ask tell me that you are not experienced in auto restoration. Lots of people like you out there with great intentions but no grasp on the painful reality.
The body repairs and painting will set you back a minimum of $3000-$5000. That is without pulling the body from the frame. Yes, others will chime in how they got their buddy to paint it for them for $500 or something, but that's not reality for most people. Just finding someone willing to work on a project like that is difficult, as most body shops want nothing to do with restoration work.
The mechanical upgrades, while easier, will still cost you. Another engine/trans combo, even used, will be what? $1000-$2000? Labor to install and the tedious process of fabbing the various linkages and updating the wiring quickly escalates the cost. Again, not a big deal for a DIYer (and the how-to is easily found here by using the SEARCH function) but if the work isn't the hobby for you, just owning the truck is, I again suggest you buy the truck you want vs the one you have now.
You can find a cruise-night show quality finished truck pretty easily for $5000-$7000, the amount you will quickly spend on yours, without all the hassle and the years it will take to get the project finished.
Thanks for the honesty DDAVIDV. To clarify, the tree was a small one, and the damage was limited to about a foot by half foot area. It didn't damage either the hood or the windshield. If I can bang out the dents what kind of work am I looking at for repairing/bondoing it, etc.
Thanks for the offer Scifi266, but I'm in Iraq for another six months. Right now I'm just looking for advice, experience, etc.
My best advice is to start piddling with it when you get back and do as much as you can yourself. Heck, you might even have a knack for it. It wouldn't even hurt to pick up a spray gun and a respirator and go as far as shooting the primer. If that was easy enough for you keep going. Did you ever here the story about the guy who designed a cog driven clock in his head while in prison then actually built it when he got out, it supposedly kept great time too. Thanks for serving BTW.
Advice from somebody who has shot allot of paint, lacquer is the easiest and most forgiving and a good place to start. Enamel isn't much tougher to shoot but it is less forgiving if you get some bad spots. Emron or other urethane based paints are the best strength wise but a base clear system is tough for a first timer and you don't want to breathe that $#iT. The internet is great now days, just look up info on welding sheet metal, body filler, and paint systems. You might even come back as an expert on the subject.
For me its was no brainer. Either pick up a wire feed welder, an angle grinder, an HVLP rig, a respirator, body hammers, and some sanding boards or pay someone to do it. Since I'm a poor boy I decided that I only wanted to pay a couple grand one time and get the next one done for "free".
All trucks are worth keeping, but exspense is so mean....... I've done about 85% of my 65 model and have recepits for close to 13K in it. I got the body work & paint done for under $1300. Can be seen in my galllery
Granted I replace alot / just about all chrome and trim avaiable so cost is determine by level of restore as well.
As others mention; thanks for serving, our prayers are with you all. Got a nephew in Iraq now with the 82nd.
Keep reading the post and you'll get vauable info and ideals as well.
Mitch
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I will be covering the cab fuel hole. I plan to go to a scrap yard and find a poor truck and cut out the cab section from the passenger side to cover the fill hole. You can do the same with your cowl.
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re: paint. The old school guys swear by lacquer, but the fact is nobody uses it anymore, not the least of which are the safety aspects. Nothing wrong with enamel. Body shops are using it every day with excellent results.
Charlie



