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OK so after seeing all the glow plug and gpr issues posted this winter , I decided to finally check mine to see which ones needed replacing . I have had cold start issues since ive owned the truck the past 3 years and just assumed I had some bad glow plugs . Well I go out today and test them and to my suprise all 8 are reading .6-.7 ohms . So I check my gpr , 12v on both sides . Cycle thru glow plugs for 2 minutes x 4 and truck spits out white smoke for 3 or 4 key cycles and finally starts with the romps .
Temp outside is 36 degrees and truck was not plugged in . She has 213k miles , early 99 with DP tuner but was set on stock , dino oil ( I know , Ill never use it again after this winter ) .
Is there a fuse or something in line with the load side of the gpr so even though its outputting 12v its not getting to the glow plugs? Im stumped and any ideas on what to try next would be appreciated .
Scott
OK so after seeing all the glow plug and gpr issues posted this winter , I decided to finally check mine to see which ones needed replacing . I have had cold start issues since ive owned the truck the past 3 years and just assumed I had some bad glow plugs . Well I go out today and test them and to my suprise all 8 are reading .6-.7 ohms . So I check my gpr , 12v on both sides . Cycle thru glow plugs for 2 minutes x 4 and truck spits out white smoke for 3 or 4 key cycles and finally starts with the romps .
Temp outside is 36 degrees and truck was not plugged in . She has 213k miles , early 99 with DP tuner but was set on stock , dino oil ( I know , Ill never use it again after this winter ) .
Is there a fuse or something in line with the load side of the gpr so even though its outputting 12v its not getting to the glow plugs? Im stumped and any ideas on what to try next would be appreciated .
Scott
Batteries, cables, etc all have to be in good shape to supply the current the GPs want.
A couple of years ago, I had a corroded battery terminal on the drivers side (positive). Didn't have a bunch of copper-sulfide on it, but was black when I took it apart. Used a wire cable/post cleaner. Man what a difference!
I'd have to look to see if there is any kind of fusible link or something. What happens if you take the connector off at the valve cover and ohm between a glow plug pin and the GPR feed?
well i checked the connectors and had continuity from the gpr to each gp pin on the harness . I forgot to add the truck is not driven everyday could their be some kind of fuel issue if it sits a couple of weeks between uses? Just seems odd the only time I have issues is when its cold if the gpr and gp's are good
Scott
I have a 2001 and it is doing the EXACT same thing you describe. Mine's been doing it for a couple months.
It only happens in cold weather (under 50*) and after a few key-turn cycles it will chug-a-lug to a start. My batteries are both fairly new (less than 6 months old). I'm going to check the corrosion on them tonight...just to be sure.
I haven't checked the GPs or any of that stuff. I really don't know how, and don't have the tools.
I'd suggest giving the synthetic oil a try. There's a chance the poppets in your injectors are sticking with the cold oil. An injector buzz test when cold might confirm this, but if you don't have a scanner handy that can do this, I'd try the oil.
OK I didnt have time to change over to synth oil this afternoon but after talking with a mechanic he suggested I take my ohm readings with my ground lead in a different spot. I did this and my readings on ALL the gp's is .4 ohms . I thought bad ones would read open but now im below the .6 ohms that should be the lowest I read? Sorry to keep rambling but im really about ready to give up and take it to the stealership .
Scott
I think you're fine. I believe the correct reading is between 0.1 & 2 ohms. If all the glow plugs were bad, the truck wouldn't start when cold, plus at one or more would have gone to the open reading by now.