Gentlemen started having a problem with my 96 F250 the other day. I apologize for this in advance but this will be rather wordy so I can explain in detail what is happening. Started my truck up the other day and was letting it warm up. After about 5 minutes the truck died. Just like someone turned the key off. Went to restart and the first thing I noticed was the WTS light was no longer coming on. I cranked anyway and got a no start. My first thought was the CPS, so off to Napa I went. I replaced the CPS and tried to crank and again no WTS light and no fire. I then went to the fuse box and seen fuse #22 was blown, put a new one in tried to start it. The WTS light momentarily came on then went back off and truck kicked 1 time but did not start. Went back and checked the Fuse and it was blown again. From reading this forum is appeared a common problem to blowing fuse #22 was the fuel heater shorting, so I diconnected it. Went to crank it, The WTS light came on, tach move, and she fired right up. Thought my problem was solved. I was going to go to town so I cranked the truck to let it warm up and after 5 minutes the truck died again. As if I shut the key off. There no hesitation or coughing just cut out. I tried to restart and it fired right up and after 15 seconds died again. I went ahead and started it up and kept is revved to drive it around and it would stay running but it feels as if IM turning the key off and on, off and on. When I come to a stop it dies, just like in my driveway. Other things I have done is swapped out the IDM & the PCM from my other 97 F350. It would fire up as always and die just like before. So I have eliminated the PCM or IDM as a problem. This is getting to the point where its above me and a mechanic will have to be called upon. I just wanted to check with this group to see what might be casuing this? Appreciate your help. Thanks Maxx

 

Put your old CPS back in and see what happens

 

JT, I ruined the old one getting it out? You thinking the CPs is a bad one? I usually have good luck with NAPA parts. The tach will move on startup. Does the CPS either work or not work? Or can they work but be irratic? Thanks

 

Go to autozone cps are 25 bucks if it works buy another one and keep in glovebox with 10mm wrench and screwdriver. just my .02

 

They can be erratic. Its just something easy to try.

 

check your connection to the cps. When for ford did mine as a recall the pig tail was bad and mine acted goofy. Anything over 1200 or so killed it. Could be the same thing for you just maybe different wire on plug
If that doesn't work get another one. The first one foed put in was bad and they couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start and wanted me to pay for them the diagnose

 

I will try another one just in case! I was just under the impression the CPS either worked or it didn't work. I did not realize they can be erratic and only partially work. Thanks maxx

 

wmiller brings up a good point. Try just unplugging and replugging the connector on the CPS.

 

Yes, good advise now that they are cheap. My new blah-blah-B CPS from Ford was less than $20 and the greasy old one is in a bag in the glovebox.

 

Guys I wanted to thank you for all the advise. I have decided to let a local diesel mechanic take a look at it. All I would be doing is just buying and replacing parts in the hope of solving the problem. I would prefer to get an expert pin point the problem and buy only the parts needed. On another note I would like to ask a question about the brakes. On this 96 F250 I have noticed a soft brake pedal. I can slowly depress the pedal down about 80% of the travel before it stops moving. I have no leaks, the MC is always filled, I have no warning lights coming on, but the comfort level of stepping on a pedal that moves this much is not pleasing. I also own a 97 F350 and brake pedal is really nice and firm and does not move but about 20% on the travel before stopping. No comparison between that and my 96. I got to beleive the vacuum is good as the pedal does not take much effort to depress so logic tells me to start at the MC, but again after reading the hundreds of threads here people have stated the same issues I have and replced the MC without fixing it. So what do you guys think as most likely. By the way the brakes will pump up hard with engine off. Unsettling feeling having a brake pedal moving downward so much. I will post the outcome of my original problem when I get it back from the shop. Thanks again guys. Maxx

 

I would guess that the rear brakes need to be adjusted to fix the pedal feel. It doesn't take much for them to feel low.

 

Tim one thing I will mention on the brakes is that the truck stops fine but when for example you stop at a traffic light and you hold brake pressure that at that point it will continue moving downward another 50% after the truck has stopped? This makes me beleive something somewhere has a problem. I had a rear brake job last year on this vehicle. maxx

 

The dropping pedal is normal. There is an updated booster to fix it but it doesn't hinder the brake performance at all. Still check the rear brake adjustment. They are supposed to be self adjusting but it rarely works as good as it should

 

Thanks Tim!

 

Guys I wanted to post the resolution to the problem I was having. First I want to thank all the advice, it was most helpful and really gives layman like me places to look for the problem. THANKS again. Anyway after getting the truck to the shop the mechanic called me and said my CPS was bad? YEP my brand new CPS I purchased at Napa for $45.00 bucks. I was a little shocked that I got a bad part out of NAPA, Autozone yes I would have expected thatb but not NAPA. I learned a lesson. Go to Ford for the CPS! Truck is running as good as ever. Never Never count out a CPS as the problem as I did. Maybe this will save another person some time and aggravation. Thanks again! Maxx