anyone know anything about these electric powered door latch pull motors?
I have 2 supposedly '60' pound pull motors.. one opens the drivers door,
but the passenger door will not pop.

I can reach in and pull the cable, not what I would consider 60lbs worth, to pop the latch.

power is over a 10ga wire, relay driven.

I have run a temp ground, direct power from the battery.. nothing. it pulls but won't pop.
(I have not swapped motors in doors)

this is the 2inch round, 4inch long can version of the pull.


using 1/16th steel cable between the latch & pull.

Sam

 

may look at adjusting your latch and striker if your are using bear claws

 

yes, using bear claws.. they are adjusted to where the door lines up with the body.
Yes the passenger door is tighter than the drivers door.
I have not yet installed all the door gasket, but I do have some at strategic pressure points.

The latch is not adjustable (autoloc). altho the striker is.. I did move it about 1/16 in out.. no luck.

sam

 

I have the same pulls in my rear doors that have been converted to a hatch,And I have similar problem,I am using Nissian tail gate latches from a small pickup.One side will pull the latch no problem the other side will not if I flip the switch several times then it will work.I tried larger wires reground the hold door,went from two relays to one,and still having the same problem.I did notice that if the truck is running it seems to work every time.I am thinking its the pull its self.I would love to have you figure this out cause I cant.

 

have you tried swapping the motors/latches? I think I will try that next..

sam

 

This may not work for you guys but I have bear claws installed in my doors too, but I put the latch in the cab and the striker in the door.
Anyway I have the same solenoids and used a pulley to lessen the pull power needed to open the latch. I never have a problem even with the door being out of alignment at times.
(oh and I too had them wired up with relays)

 

ooo pulley.. double pull.. twice the power.. nice.. will make a trip to lowes tomorrow!..

sam

 

Yep, the pulley wins it..

couldn't find a pulley small enough, so had to make my own.

used a roller from a sliding screen door, ball bearing center. Mounted in a little metal frame.. drilled the center post, and ran the 1/16th steel cable thru, and clamped it as close to the little bracket as possible (sorry, didn't take pics along the way)..

the bracket keeps the cable from binding the pulley wheel.

the cable to the latch lever loops over the pulley, and then loops over the bottom screw retainer on the bear claw latch.

the cable from the other end of the pulley connection goes thru the solenoid.

careful adjustment.. need just enough play that the solenoid is at full power when the cable tightens.. too tight and the solenoid gets stopped..
too loose and nothing..

door opens every time now..

here are pics from inside the door

upper


lower


sam

 

Thanks for the pictures.I will try this next.

 

A while back I put this stuff in, and it worked pretty well, most of the time..

when the interior guy did the doors, and extra handles, he wanted to use solid rod.
and all was well.. until last week. when the pull on the drivers door started jamming in the open position (after pulling the door latch, and release).. I took the pull apart, didn't find anything, and it worked for 2 days.. grrrr..

anyhow.. I found these other monster pulls for airbagparts.com, never seen a double motor pull before..

bought a set and installed them today..! wow are these nice.. quiet, and strong.

they come with cables already made up, 3 to be exact. and one thing I really liked is how to attach them to your latches.. always a pain in the rear.. not.. they come with loop pre-crimped, and a small heavy keyring style connector. spin it on and voila, connected..

the cable comes thru the top of the motor, which is a clamp mechanism..
slide the cable thru the clamp, pull the motor up, and mark the cable..
put the ferrel on and crimp, slide the ferrel thru the clamp, just at the edge, and tighten the clamp bolts (4 each)..

sorry for the poor cell pics.. didn't take my camera to the shop today..

sam

 

I'm working on a '49 and was wondering what time of latches ya'll used?

 

here is a link to the pull kits with better pic

http://www.avsontheweb.com/product.p...126&bestseller

they also have this cool lost power safety circuit that I'd never seen before..

run two wires that connect to the +/- of the latch pull, to somewhere you can access,. if no power then a jumper cable from a friends car to the two wires will pop the door.
no ring, no cable, nothin special, but not obvious.. a 12 volt screwdriver/drill battery will work too.

and its really only one wire to the power side, and one nearby to ground. if you do this when you run your harness it will be really easy!..
their door pull harness has this built in.

got to do this on mine. course the carpet is glued down now...what a pita..

Sam