Julie-
This is Terri--walfords wife. I keep hearing about you,and am getting jealous. He says you answer the questions like a pro.,and he prints everything you say.
I wonder if you can tell us what you do for a living? Just curious. No pictures,as that might make him even like you more.LOL
Terri Walford-Miss56

 

I have read all of these posts and I don't think it was mentioned which engine you are running. If you have a flathead there is one problem with the old starter on 12 volts that I have run into. It turns so fast and hits so hard that I have had the starter drive knock the ring gear loose on the flywheel. For whatever reason Henry had the ring gear pressed on from the front of the flywheel and since the starter drive engages from the back of the flywheel it can evenutally jar it loose. The new 12 volt starters for flatheads such as Speedway Motors sells engage in the other direction.

 

Hi Terri,

OH OH!

He doesn't work fo the IRS or anything does he?

Tee hee, I thought I was in enough trouble being a wisenheimer with all these old trucking guys, but if I've got the guys wives responding, I guess I've REALLY done it!

Currently I'm a flight attendent for Southwest Airlines. (I know - "WHAT?")

It's my fall back career - pays the bills at the moment.

And I'm with you on the pictures - maybe someday. Despite the number of requests, posting pictures of myself on the internet would probably make my mother turn over in her grave! And that would be really uncomfortable for her since she's still living.

So, do you post as "Miss 56?" Ya oughta jump in! Sometimes I need the help!

Nice hearing from you!

Julie

 

Anytime Man... We might even get lucky and get it right sometimes...

Later...

 

You are right. I have had a similar situation with rebuilding and upgrading Lincoln SA-200 welding machines wuth the old flathead Continentals. Only the ring gear was part of the flywheel and if it got busted you were in trouble big time. The newer starter for them were GM style and they were 12V. Are the new ones they make for the flatheads 12 0r 6 volt or both???

Later Man...

 

Both! New ones in either 12 or 6 Volt are about $170 At C&G. They have rebuilts as well for $135 but don't specify voltage.

Other places probably carry them as well, prices may vary!

J!

 

Ms Cool Julies Cool F1, If you could tell my how to send a "PM" with my address I sure could use a Power Point Wiring Diagram you were talking about. I just bought a '52 and the wiring looks like....well, it looks like the rats moved out because it is such a mess. Its been changed to 12 volt but no gauges work and half the wiring is just hang with open ends or tape on them. I ordered a wiring diagram but it's such a blurry mess it looks like what I have now.I need all the help I can get.Thank you

 

Wow, it's been a little while since this has come around.

I got a request for the drawings this morning and sent them out. Am I just not seeing the sync in names....Tim?

The drawings are for a 12 volt conversion rewire, and if that wasn't you this morning (forgiv emy confusion, but I get about 20 requests a month for those), just click on my username and send me a regular e-mail. You don't have enought posts yet to use the PM function.

All I need is your regular e-mail address - just e-mail it to me and I'll send those to you.

 

Julie, they can download the docs here:

 

Julie is the MAN err... GIRL err... lady? err... ??? anyway she's the ONE!
You can trust her info.
Two points I might add is first DON't put a BA resistor on your starter!
Second is I'd recommend rewiring everything. Your wires were not designed to last 60 years, and the circuit breaker protection is rudimentary at best, certainly won't accomidate any modern electrical acessories. Most have been made into a total rats nest by PO's repairs and "modifications". Many here, yours truly included, have used and recommend using a rewiring kit such as produced by EZ Wire or It's a Snap. There are one or two more "famous" brands, but you will pay a lot extra for that fame.

 

Err- err -errr - tee hee...how 'bout just one of "the guys" (thanks AX)!

AX is right about just starting from scratch on the rewires. It's really not that hard if taken one step at a time. That old stuff left in immediately becomes "the weakest link." Plus, if you do your rewire, I guarantee you will "know" your electrical system by the time you are finished. It's a good thing to know and will become completely un inhibiting.

I guess it depends on how far and how much of a restoration you plan to do, but for the (probably) thousands of dollars you will spend, adding a few extra dollars for top quality in what is the most unforgiving and difficult (from an accessability standpoint) system on your truck is very VERY good advice.

If you purchase quality materials (wire, connectors, etc) take your time, be patient, and do it right, you will never ever have to touch that electrical system again for as long as you own your truck. If you don't, you'll be tracing and troubleshooting forever. Your time, sanity and safety are worth the extra time and $$$$$.

 

Ms Too Cool Julie you are my new HERO. I just printed all the diagrams you sent. These are Great ! Thank You.I will be in the shop for a while if anyone looks for me.

 

Thanks guys!

I'm not sure if I mentioned this recently or not, but it's a nice point to remember.

With the original Power Point files, you can change the color of the lines on my drawings to match the color of wire you actually installed. If you print mine out and take the time to mark it up as you work, make a copy of the drawing and update it to the correct colors you are installing, when you are done, you will have an ACCURATE CUSTOM COLOR WIRING MAP OF YOUR TRUCK!!!!!! That makes adding stuff or finding a short (if you pinch a wire) a BREEZE!!!!!!!!! I look at those all the time!!!!!

I actually printed my set on 4x6 photo paper then took them to Kinko's and laminated them to keep in the glove box - like the fuse panels and what is where!

 

Julie's guide is mostly correct. You can use a 6V starter virtually forever as starter motors are series wound DC motors that as they spin, build counter EMF which reduces the current draw. So two things happen, the starter turns the motor over faster which usually makes it start faster, and the faster spin speed reduces the current by quite a bit. The Starter Solenoid needs to be changed to 12V. Battery cables and wiring for 6V are sized for 6V current levels which are twice 12V levels, so none need to be changed. You would change the Positive ground to Negative, and if the battery cable clamps won't resize so they can be switched, you can buy some new ones.

Windshield Wipers: if you have 6V electric wipers, you can switch the motor to a 12V by making up a new output lever from part of the 6V lever and part from the 12V. The switch will work as is. There is no fixed resistance in the wiiper two speed circuitry.

Heater: Easier to just put in a 12V heater motor and use a 12V switch, since the low speed uses a fixed resistance.

Gauges: I build a zener diode regulater on a PC board and mount it under the dash. Parts cost under $10 and it keeps all the gauges at 6V. The ammeter is a current loop and does not matter, but you will have to reverse the wire directioin since you are reversing the polarity. I will be happy to send a schematic for anyone interested. Another way is to use a 6V Tap on the battery and use a headlight relay to switch it on and off with the ignition or accessory lead from the ign. switch.

All bulbs, and whatever charging system you want, from 12V generator to one wire 12V alternators.

Ignition: Coil, coil resistor. Points, condenser are not affected as they are on the secondary side of the coil.

Horns: I would switch them to 12V models, they will draw way to much current if 6V horns are left in.

Directional signal Flasher: change to 12V.

Radio: If you are using a 6V radio, it will be a vibrator model and there are some things that are easy to do to convert to 12V. However, if you just want it to work with no hassle, use a Volt-A-Drop resistor for it. The Radio can be converted for about $100 if you have it done. There are several of us who can do that. There are also some who make AM/FM/CD players with Ford logos, but they don't have round radio models.

All switches, like the light switch, the wiper switch, directional signal switches, stoplight switch, dimmer switch, ignition switch, were made for twice the current that will flow at 12V, so they will work fine as is.

Horn Relay: change to 12V

Overdrive: Solenoid has to be changed, OD relay has to be changed, but kiskdown switch and governor are OK. Solenoid is expensive and hard to find, but there are a lot more 12V solenoids out there than 6V. OD relay is still made in 12V.

Battery: Obviously go to 12V. There are still batteries made that have a 6V tap made, and since all batteries are made up with 2V cells linked together, it is not hard to add a 6V tap. If you needed stuff to work at 6V for awhile due to your OD or radio or something else, you can run this 6V through a relay that you operate with IGN or ACC and inline fuse it to the area that has to be 6V.

Regards,

Alan

 

A few comments on a really nice write up! One thing I have found is that some switches - heater and wiper particularly, come in various models.