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This is an excellent write-up, BUT, this is the article with bad information that I mentioned above.
It states "Tighten the water pump bolts to35-46 Lb*Ft.". THIS IS DEAD WRONG. If you do this you can easily strip the water pump mounting holes in your ENGINE BLOCK!
The correct torque is 18 ft-lbs. I contacted the web site owner months ago when I discovered this problem and I was told "I've asked the author to change it". Sadly it is still wrong.
When i did my first van, there was no room to see anything. So I took a cut off wheel and split the shroud in half, so each side would come out. Then I drilled holes and used wire ties to put it back together when I was done. The bottom drops in a hole and the top has a bolt to hold it on each side, so it worked fine. I do it to all of them now just to make it easier. I use the air chisel to get the fan off, and hold it while my helper cranks the engine when I put it back on. And always get a new pump. USA if you can find one.
Look at that u-tube, if you have access to air chisel do it that way, If I'd known I would have used mine. Mine had righty-tighty threads, I don't care what the manual says, at least one (mine) has 'em. We could not get it loose (3 big guys). so I removed the radiator, snaked the shroud out then removed the pump. Cut shaft from pump, ground flats on shaft, broke shaft. Vise and 8' bar, broke vise loose from table. Priced new fan clutch, crapped pants at price. Got another guy to stand on vise, ground more flats on shaft and got it loose with 8 ft bar and BFH. As the engine turns it tightens the fan clutch nut, so over unpteen jillion miles we put on these trucks it can get very very (we calculated 1500 lbs torque) tight.
yup, i changed mine this weekend too. lefty loosy threads. also, i had to get a new thermostat housing as well as mine did not mate up and seal correctly to the new pump. i got a NAPA pump, i hope that brand is sufficient.
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