I'm stumped...
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,964
Likes: 2
From: Fort Worth
You tell your mechanic to just run a hot wire from the positive battery cable terminal to the proper point on the coil connection as a troubleshooting measure before he goes to all the bother and expense of messing in the steering column. You will know when it's properly hot wired when you can shut the ignition switch off and the engine keeps running. Of course then to shut the truck off when hot wired you will need to disconnect this hot wire.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
WRONG. If you have it hot wired and it still cuts out it's not in the steeiing column(most likely anyway) or ignition switch. It still could be the coil, the hot wire just bypasses the ignition switch, so to speak. I should also point out that you don't want to leave the hot wire hooked up to the coil for any length of time without the engine running. Also be careful about touching any metal parts with the hot wire when it is unhooked from the coil. I would unhook it at the battery end.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
I'll reply to this again. Your problem certainly could be the coil, I didn't suggest that the first time I replied(under no. 8) because in your original post you said you had spark from the coil( I don't know how you tested it). The coil is one of the things that could cause your exact problem(along with the ignition module which you already tried and the PIP in the distributor). You said you replaced the distributor and I don't know the history of that or where you got the distributor. My quess at this point would be either the coil or the PIP in the distributor.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
I know it's possible to get a faulty distributor, but what's the chances of getting one with the exact same problem. I would probably be better off changing the coil first to see if that resolves it.
I'm not much of a mechanic but I'm certainly learning a lot from this site.
Thank you!
I'm not much of a mechanic but I'm certainly learning a lot from this site.
Thank you!
New User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
I have the same problem with my 95 150. My truck cuts out at any speed up to 60mph but usually kicks back on at that speed. I can drive it to school in the morning, have it not crank at lunch, and then be fine by school's end. It cuts out in the rain, sunshine..I digress. It seems to kick back on after a couple of hours but is still unreliable. I have replaced the plugs, wires, distibutor cap and rotor, and 2 coils now. and it persists... Fuel pressure is good, and I think it maybe a bad ground.
New User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
They tested it at the shop I took it to. Not sure what it was, but when it dies there is no spark to the plugs at all. Which is making me think that perhaps the ECM is the culprit since I've replaced the coil twice as I said.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 40,035
Likes: 1,523
From: Maine, Virginia
That's actually what I was thinking. My daughter's Honda was doing that and the ignition module was the culprit.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Also....
Had the ignition Module tested today and it's working fine, and replaced the ignition switch....cranked and then died again. So I think at this point I have replaced everything electrical I can think of. Except the ECM.
New User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
I have the same trouble. I replyed to Bogging/Hesitation/Bucking under load. I have only been tooking at post tonight and have myself you and one other that are having the same trouble. I replaced the ign sw in the steering colum and i'm still have trouble. you sound check the other guys issues so you don't waist money.
New User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Ok here is the thing that was wrong with mine, may apply to you guys or not. The TFI module( Thin Film Ignition Module) for my F150 was part of a recall back in 2007. after the TFIs heat up to a certain temp they cut out leaving drivers stranded, without the ability to recrank the vehicles. These damn things actually killed people. Sucky part is once they cool down, they function normally. So if you take yours in and they try to test it, it will read normal. I replaced mine over a week ago and my truck is back to normal...finally.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Goldsboro Nc
i had the same problem with my car, and it ended up being a relay that contain the cooling fan and igintion and when it would move it would shut off my car. i dont know if you have something like that, but i would check into that i wiggle it while it was running and thats how i found out.
New User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
I have a 1991 and mine did that to0...to the point that the duration between stalls shortened to 5 minutes before it would even start at all. It was the TFI. A gray computer chip deal associated with distributor. Replaced it and it run for years since.
