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Hopefully I'll get my manuals this week. I bought the 3 part shop manuals off ebay. Just waiting to receive them now. Then things will look much more clear to me!
Dave,
Thanks for the great explanation of the controller bypass. Do I understand correctly that the bypass wire runs from the trigger wire on the controller to the switch? Then a switched power wire from the fuse box connects to the other side of the switch. I'm just trying to claify which terminal the wire coming off the controller is attached to.
I checked the glow plugs, and here is the interesting thing ... All of the glow plugs on the drivers side are good, and all of the ones on the passenger side are bad.
I also did a little check on the relay. I put an alligator clip on the positive battery terminal, and (with the ignition on) I made a connection to the purple wire post on the relay. I then heard a loud click.
So ... correct me if I'm wrong ... I think I need to replace the 4 glow plugs on the passenger side (with motorcraft ones), and I need to add a push button to the truck for manual glow plug use (per Dave's suggestion). I heard someone tell me that I should just look for an old deisel truck at a scrap yard and get the controller from there for cheaper ... is this a good idea, or is it just better to bypass it completely?
Personally I am not a fan of hacking in a push button.. Fix it right you will be much happier.
Dave,
Thanks for the great explanation of the controller bypass. Do I understand correctly that the bypass wire runs from the trigger wire on the controller to the switch? Then a switched power wire from the fuse box connects to the other side of the switch. I'm just trying to claify which terminal the wire coming off the controller is attached to.
Thanks!!
I believe the wire from the controller that energizes the relay is purple.
Someone will slap me if I am wrong.
I'm very glad that I didn't install the push button.
Make sure that you check your relay and that it is getting 12 volts on the other side when it is engaged. I thought my controller was bad, but it was actually the relay.
I do have 12v going to the hot side of the relay when the key is on. So, tell me if I'm wrong, but I need to turn the key on and while the WTS light is on check the other large terminal on top for 12v. Will any ground work or do I need to ground on the battery? Thanks in advance for you rhelp.
the frame or battery is fine. It should be all the same. While that light is on, you want 12 volts on the side of the terminal that is closest to the cab of the truck, not closest to the battery.
You could also pull the individual glow plug wires one by one and verify that you have 12V on each of them.
One side will always be hot, the other depends on the Glow Controller (small purple wire), With key on and showing WTS then the other large terminal should be hot, that feeds the GP's.
If you are trying to test your relay, You can unplug the purple wire and apply 12v to the terminal it was on and it will energize the relay, don't leave it on for more than a few seconds (max 10, typical GP on time) unless all GP's are unplugged.
You can ground on any metal as long as it's grounded back to the battery, technically all diesels (good idea on gassers as well) should be grounded Battery->Block->Chassis and Head(s)->Chassis.