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UVC Harness testing

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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 05:08 PM
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UVC Harness testing

I tested the glow plugs and injectors on my uvc harness and got normal readings on the glow plugs except one was at 92 ohms. I've also read that you dont want over three ohms at your injectors when testing the resistance from the high bank to low bank. Almost all of my injectors were slightly above three ohms, and some got up to 5.6 ohms. I was looking for a short in my harness, but thats what i found. Is that an acceptable level of resistance for injectors or could that cause a no start condition?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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I think 3 or 4 ohms is normal for injector wiring last time I tested mine they were 3.5 ohms usually you can tell if you have a bad harness just by unplugging the connector you can smell burning.

on the harness with the 92 ohm reading was that where the injectors ohmed out at 5.6 ohms?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by WALJON
I think 3 or 4 ohms is normal for injector wiring last time I tested mine they were 3.5 ohms usually you can tell if you have a bad harness just by unplugging the connector you can smell burning.

on the harness with the 92 ohm reading was that where the injectors ohmed out at 5.6 ohms?
I,m sorry I didn,t read correctly I see you said all the injectors tested 5.6 ohms

my apologies
 
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 05:48 PM
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Well my sniffer aint the greatest so it looks like im just going to take the covers off and inspect the gaskets. Did i check the gasket correctly? Test the resistance of the glow plugs (outside two pins) and the ground, and the injectors by checking resistance from middle pin to the two pins on each side? Is there any other way i need to check the pins to look for a short?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 05:50 PM
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around 3.5 ohms is perfect. Above 4 is suspect. You need to work you way toward the injector solenoid with testing. Unplug the inside of the UVC and test there. If your resistance dropped then your looking at VC gaskets more than likely. Also test the soleniod right at its pins.

Do you have a no start condition right now?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 97biostroke
Well my sniffer aint the greatest so it looks like im just going to take the covers off and inspect the gaskets. Did i check the gasket correctly? Test the resistance of the glow plugs (outside two pins) and the ground, and the injectors by checking resistance from middle pin to the two pins on each side? Is there any other way i need to check the pins to look for a short?
yes you did that correctly. The biggest issue will be melted connectors. They will be plain to see when you unplug them
 
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 05:58 PM
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Right now it will start occasionally, but only runs for roughly 1.5 seconds. It can stay running sometimes at 600 rpm with the pedal on the floor. Unfortunately i didnt see any melted connectors. Do you mean take off the covers and check resistance at the connections there?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 97biostroke
Right now it will start occasionally, but only runs for roughly 1.5 seconds. It can stay running sometimes at 600 rpm with the pedal on the floor. Unfortunately i didnt see any melted connectors. Do you mean take off the covers and check resistance at the connections there?
Yes that is what I meant.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 06:32 PM
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Alright well i go take off some covers and see what i can find. Ill post the results when im done. Thanks for all the help
 
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 07:54 PM
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Ok im stuck lol...is there somethin i need to remove to get the passenger side valve cover out? I've tried about everything i can think of and i cant manuever it out. Any tricks or tips?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 97biostroke
Ok im stuck lol...is there somethin i need to remove to get the passenger side valve cover out? I've tried about everything i can think of and i cant manuever it out. Any tricks or tips?
Remove the silver insulation from the heater box and under there is a small box with a vacuum line going to it. The box is held my two screws. Remove those and the box and the VC will come out.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 08:31 PM
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OK i got it off. I pulled the connection at the front no problem. I tried to getting the back one off but broke the part that holds it together on top. I struggled to disconnect them only to realize the plastic had melted together, one spot on each side. I would guess that to be the problem, but from the outside of the harness i get the normal resistance readings. Should i disregard those normal readings and assume thats the problem?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 08:58 PM
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if if the valve cover wiring harness is burnt at the connectors you can replace it with this

O'Reilly Auto Parts - Results for Shopping Search
 
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 09:08 PM
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Awesome i checked a local place and it was over 100 bucks, buts it only 75 at O'Reilly. If the other gasket is fine should i replace it to or is this an uncommon occurance?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 09:19 PM
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This is just me, but if I had both valve covers off I'd replace both gaskets while I had everything apart and keep the old good one for a spare.
 
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