<hr style="color: rgb(204, 204, 204); background-color: rgb(204, 204, 204);" size="1"> <!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message --> Alright my plans keep changing, but right now heres what Im thinking. I wanna build a capable crawler out of my 78 Ford F-150 shortbed. So im thinking either 4.56 or 5.38 gears, 14 bolt rear axle. keep the dana 44 front for now with chromo shafts, spool in the rear, detroit up front, 35 inch tsl's. Now for suspension heres my idea. Is cage offroad a good kit? Im thinking there 4" kit along with there tube radius arms. Will this let the truck get twisted in the rocks? I would be keeping the 400m and c6, possible throwing a 203 doubler onto the 205. Someone give me some ideas to what is a good set up. And will the 44 with chromo shafts hold up to 35's decently. I know rock crawling breaks ****, but will it handle it decently? Thanks guys

 

Just buy this and be done.
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http://www.racingjunk.com/post/14018...ROCKWELLS.html

 

I would have to say no.
If your persistant to run the 44 for now, I'd go chromo's without the locker. I had 38's with my 44, chromos, and locker. Snapped em like a twig the 2nd time out. Save your money for the locker and put towards a D-60.

The 14-bolt rear should hold up ok with the spool.

 

From what I've seen you can get some mad flex with the Cage kit, way better than the usual "out of the box" type lift kits. Do that on the front and shackle filp the rear and you should be set.

If your going to run 35" tires I'd stay away from the 5.38's if your going to do the NP408 (205+203). With the doubler and that "short" of tire you'd almost have dare I say too much gearing. 4.10's might work better if your going to be seeing any pavement. You'll always have an abundance of options in doubled t-cases to up the crawl ratio if need be, and wheel speed for things like mud and sand.

 

The cage kit is awesome. Really a nice kit for this application.
As for the D44 holding up on the rocks? Not for long. I also have to agree that saving money for the D60F is gonna be the way to go. You all know that I love the 14B rear axle, so you wont hear (see) me complaining about this stout axle.
The doubler is a great option, but watch you driveline angles in a short truck. You wont be lifting it to the moon, so you will be alright.
If you are running on the rocks, you cant have too much gear, but there will be some sacrifice if you intend to run some mud. Unfortunately the gears availabe for our T-cases limit us to 1:1, 2:2, and 4:1. There is not a 3:1 option that we can use. Chebby and dodge guys have all the luck.
I use this adapter:
NorthWest FabWorks - Products - Transfer Cases - NP203 / NP205 Adaptor

 

Id like to run the 1 tons, 14b ff rear, and dana 60 front. At the bottom is the trail Id be cralwing the most. If I go one tons, Im gonna cut the fenders and run 42 tsl's. How hard is it to convert a d 60 to run the front coil springs. I found cage tubelar radius arms for a d 60 alreay so then its just coil pads right? So heres the plan. I have a 14b rear already. I found a kp dana 60 front for $800. Put 5.38 gears front is $225, rear set of gears is $260, and welded rear, spool front. Cage off road 4" lift with tublar radius arms. Lift is $645 and arms tubelar and for a dana 60 are $845. Cut the fenders. Tires are $410 each unless I can find some used. Wheels are gonna be $85 each for 16x 10 black wagons wheels. So right now where looking at $4840 without the doubler which can come later. Damn.lol Good thing Im getting paid more for being married. So what Im I missing guys. Where can I cheapen up, where do I need to spend more. And what am I forgetting?

Heres Rattle Rock the trail I'm wanting to be able to run.
YouTube - Big Orange @ Rattle Rock

YouTube - toyota climbing rattle rock winrock

 

You may want to look into a bigger lift than a 4" if you plan on running 42's. Even with the fenders cut, you will be pushing the limit with those size tires.
Dont forget about the extra expense of new parts for your front axle. When I got mine, i spent about $300 fixing it up. New bearings, seals, brakes, rotors, etc.... Its better to do it now, rather than waiting for something to go out on the trail.
I dont know if you can install the gears yourself, or have to send it off to get it done. If you have someone do it, figure an average of $300 labor. You will need an install kit for the new gears, roughly $200-250.
You will probably be able to find a good set of used tires and rims for a lot less than buying new. i know i will probably never buy new tires again, Ive been able to find alot of deals on used that saves a lot of money.

A spooled stock front axle will be hard on it. A Spool is just the same as welding, so if you want to do that, save the money for the spool.
You will probably break alot of stuff with a welded front and 42's. Might want to look into chromo shafts and 35 spline outers. The kit is about $800 if i remember right.
Maybe you can look into a decent posi unit for the front. Thats what I'm getting once i get some extra money to spend. Ive had bad luck with front lockers.....
I would also set aside a couple hundred dollars for misc. parts and material. Kind of hard to get an exact dollar amount until you get in the middle of the build.

 

You can expect to break a front D60 in stock form. You will have to upgrade to 35 spline outers and non tappered shafts at a minimum. Add a spool and you can expect to bust stock shafts every now and then. You will break stock knuckles with 42" tires and a spool up front. A real locker is not as hard on components as welding or spools. Welding diffs and spools never give and always tear components up. If you do run a spool, you will pretty much have to run drive slugs for the front. You will expect to almost never get the hubs unlocked once you get them locked, and you bind up the front. Some guys have to lift a wheel to release enough tension to get the fornt end unlocked.
Should you desire to install a D60, you should try to find a 78 / 9 front end. These have the longest driver side tube available and are the easiset to install radius arms to. This will not require any cutting of the driver side spring perch to clear the radius arm for that side.
Here you can see a D60F in the bronco. Have been running this for quite some time and this was pretty easy to install.



You are going to want a super flexy suspension, and you can do yourself a favor and not spend any money on your existing rear leafs. You should upgrade now, and find some 64" chebby springs. These long springs will permit sooooo much flex that it will bring a tear to your eye. You will have so moch flex out back that your shick will be the limiting factor. It will be impossible to achieve 100% of travel with stock shock locations. You will have to move the upper shock mount up into the bed.
Next is the strength of the driveshafts. You should be considering 1350 joints at a minimum. I may have some used yokes available if you need them. I am about to upgrade to 1480 joints. I think I have a set of 1410's too, but choose to skip all of that and head right to 1480's.

Alright we discussed you broken knuckle. You are gonna have to decide what type sof steering that you want to run. You will also have to decide and will probably have to realize that stock steering will not cut the mustard for very long. Stock components will be rough on that long steering box and sector shaft. Ford steering knuckles are pretty weak, and these break all of the time. I modify mine prior to installation, and have ben forced to consier the Reid racing units.


Junk can add up fast, so keep the checkbook open. None of these trucks are ever done, and you can expect the checkbook to stay open for a while. My checkbooks are still smoking.......