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I just bought my brothers 1995 Ford F250 with a 7.3 powerstroke and 5sp manual. I bought the truck knowing it would need some work. The truck shakes pretty bad at idle about 80% of the time, but smooths out as soon as you barley push down on the gas pedal. I was not sure what was wrong and there isn’t any codes popping up to tell me either. I had a good friend of mine who use to work on the Ford Diesels a fair amount drive it, and he said he was pretty sure it is the flywheel.
He then tried to explain to me the Dual Mass flywheel setup in this pickup. I would like to replace the flywheel and clutch both. I will probably go with a LUK clutch kit, however I have a couple of questions.
1. Do I have to go back with a Dual Mass setup or not??
2. I would like to do this work with some help in my garage this spring, is this job next to impossible or is it doable at home??
I would like to avoid the $1400.00 bucks it would cost to pay a tranny shop to do it.
TIA:
Tom
Never dealt with my transmission but right now I am dealing with putting a dana60 front axle in my truck and the biggest problem I am running into is the fact that the axle weighs in at over 500 pounds and dose not balance to well on jack stands or floor jacks so moving it around is a pita and dealing with that much weight can be some what dangerous. With the transmission you are going to have to deal with a lot of weight while you are under your truck. That is what is going to make it difficult and more dangerous. You dont want the transmission to fall off a jack and land on you while you are under the truck. So be careful and make sure you have at least one person around to help you out. Good luck
1. Do I have to go back with a Dual Mass setup or not??
No you do not have to stay with a DMF (Dual Mass Flywheel) ditch it and go witha SMF (Singel Mass Flywheel)
2. I would like to do this work with some help in my garage this spring, is this job next to impossible or is it doable at home??
I would like to avoid the $1400.00 bucks it would cost to pay a tranny shop to do it.
It' is a do-able job, as others stated be careful, the trans is heavy. You will need a floor jack, possible jack stands (depends of how hig your truck sits), hand tools, several long extensions for your socket set, impact wrench helps, as does an air ratchet, a trans saddle for the floor jack helps but is not necessary, (if you do not have a trans saddle use a rachet strap to wrap around the trans and through the jack saddle head to hold the trans on the jack).
Remove the shifter, drain the trans fluid, support the trans, remove the drive shaft, remove the clutch slave cylinder, diconnect the back up light wiring, remove the trans mount and cross member, unbolt the bell housing from the engine (to reach the top bolts easier, lower the rear of ther trans and use several long extensions, be careful not to lower it to far because the fan will hit the radiator), slide the trans to the rear and lower it.
Remove the clutch and pressure plate and then the flywheel and pilot bearing. Installation is in reverse order.
Thanks for the information on the SMF flywheel and Clutch setups. I mentioned that I was looking at the LUK setup, but I will look into the Valair setup also. The reason I was told to go with the LUK from some local guys is that I am looking for a setup that will push down easy. I have had two lower back surgeries and I can really start to feel it in my back and left knee with the stiff clutch setups after a few miles of in town driving. I was told the LUK is a setup that you could push down to the floor board with you hand if need be and would be easy on my back.
I am also not going to hop up this motor so I am not looking for anything to handle high horsepower or torque beyond stock. I have a car that I will drive on a daily bases and I use the truck when I need to pull my car trailer or our camper, and in stock form it pulls great.
Thanks again for any help and feedback on this.
Tom
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