You're right, that is "shiver-me-timbers" worthy
guzzle- makes you wish there was a certain IQ requirement or some other qualifier for parts counter folks, doesn't it?

 

In today's "computerized" parts houses, it's gotten even worse.

A good counter man was once a valuable asset to a parts house.

Today, they're minimum-wage, and I refer to them as "parts chimps".

I can say that. Back in the early-sixties, in high school, I "are" one.

Pop

 

Parts chimps, the not-so-distant cousin of the grease monkey found at Jiffy Lube and other fast-lube stores.

 

I'll have to give them all credit though..... I never got the "deer in the headlights stare" when asking about o-rings... at least they had an idea of what they were unlike other things I have inquired about.

I might add that the quote I posted above was from a NAPA store and the other was pretty close to the same response from an Industrial Supply store in Fort Collins, CO.

Just like when I went chasing around looking for fuel injection Sharader valves. One guy says "yea, we have boxes of them here". Got to the store and he opens a box of tire valve stems.

 

Actually, "grease monkey" is still somewhat a term of endearment to me, as most old-school mechanics will still refer to themselves as "grease monkeys". It's an honorable profession in my book!

In my opinion, Jiffy Lube has "lube chimps"and "imbeciles" working for them. Heck, even a cave man could do that job better!

Pop

 

I completed the install, and it turned out good, untill I found the real leak. My orings werent leaking, the cast had a crack in it between the two holes in the housing. I found it after getting it completed and was cleaning it up. I put plugs in the fittings and a reguator set to 50 psi and charged it with air. Sure enough it is cracked.

I did find a vavle rated for fuel ate the Case dealer. I also used a grease gun hose to put a fuel pressure gauge from the top hole.

I will try to post pics later.

It would have worked good, but my housing was no good to begin with. Just ordered a new housing.

 

Bummer about the cracked fuel bowl, that sucks. Yeah, post some pics. We like Pics. Where abouts in AZ are you?

 

Im in SE AZ right on NM border.

Here are a couple of pics of what I did to it. I will have the new housing tomorrow, and I am real tempted to try, but my wife would flip if I started drilling on the new one.

Here is after I drilled with a 11/32" drill bit (.344") instead of a letter R ( .339") because I wanted to make sure the fitting went a little farther in. I ran the tap in till it started getting so tight that I felt it would break the hole out.



Here is hole with threads, kind of hard to see, but the end of tap made it through. I worked real slow like 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time, then back out and turn again. I wanted to make sure the fitting would make it deep enough it would not break if I hit a bump hard.



I bought this little ball valve from Case for around $10, and it was rated for hyd/fuel. I put it in the bottom hole, then ended up putting an adapter barb for 5/16" hose on it to run my drain line.



The top hole I used a 90 degree 1/8" fitting for my fuel pressure gauge hose (grease gun hose). I put a T in for my other valve (needle valve to help drain and get priming started). This was the cool part of doing this. I was going to run it next to A/C and was figuring out a bracket for it.



As I was cleaning up the housing I noticed a line that was darker on the inside. It looked like a crack so I looked on the outside and noticed some pitting in the same area. It was right between the two holes, and it wasnt noticeable until I started getting it good and clean.

I plugged the fittings for the lines and hooked up a regulator and my air hose set to 50 PSI. Hit it with air and sure enough it was leaking. I dang near threw the thing but realized I wanted my gauge off it. It looked like it had been seaping for a while so I am glad I caught it now, and not on the road somewhere where I would not be able to get one very easily.

Sure would have been nice if it wasnt cracked.

 

I wonder, has anyone tried to have a fuel bowl heli-arc welded? It seems like it would be doable unless the crack wet through the lid threads.

I have heard of them cracking before so they must be very brittle and not so uncommon.

 

I dont know if it would work or not, cast has tiny pores and it would be almost impossible to clean all of the fuel out to get a good weld. Maybe I will try to do it on my old one. Yes I saved it, I may need parts from it later.