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Hi all,
This is a duplicate thread. Posted in the wrong place I recon.
I'm a from Boones Mill Va. I'm new to this thread thing. I've owned Ford trucks most of my life.I recently purchased an '02 F250 with a v10 engine. (I get 1mpg per cylinder) . After about a week the spark plug closest to the driver(me) blow out while I was driver home. Apparently this is why it was sold?! I'm now in the process of putting this mess back together. Any suggestions on removing the old head gasket without damaging aluminum head? also how clean does it have to be? Ok I'm done.
theres some threads on it with a wealth of info for you...
thre is even a mobile repair company that will travel to ur home and fix it, for a fee of course.. but it def. seems like a viable option.. esp given the idea of otherwise having to tear the head off..
hi,
I have already pulled the head. The previous ower already put a helicoil in it so I had a machine shop put a threaded insert in and remove some broken exhaust studs from previous owner(almost loose enough to remove by hand). The main thing I'm concerned with is how clean does the head have to be before reassembling.I'm having a hard time removing all of the old gasket(to bare metal) with the chemicals.
Tom
Never use a wire brush or anything similar to it on a head, or a razor blade scraper. Both are not good to use and will compromise the gasket seat. As stated above use a scotch brite pad and if you need to use a scraper use a plastic one.
Never use a wire brush or anything similar to it on a head, or a razor blade scraper. Both are not good to use and will compromise the gasket seat. As stated above use a scotch brite pad and if you need to use a scraper use a plastic one.
I do a couple of engines a year (as a hobby/with friends) and have for the past 30 years or so, and never had a problem using the soft wire wheels on iron or alum heads. I've seen some folks gouge the heck out of the surface with a scraper (Not plastic though).
What is your reasoning behind not using a wire wheel , (and using it with common sense)?
To each their own I've always said, but I've always veered away from using any wire brush or metal to metal contact of anykind, wheel or otherwise, on any mating surfaces. Just made sense to me and was always a rule of thumb of mine as far back as I can remember - and I'm right near 50. I wouldn't worry as much about iron as I would aluminum.
Probably 90% of the motors I've done have been either small or big block Chevy's with iron heads. A few I have put aluminum heads on, or they had them already. I can see your point though.
I do a couple of engines a year (as a hobby/with friends) and have for the past 30 years or so, and never had a problem using the soft wire wheels on iron or alum heads. I've seen some folks gouge the heck out of the surface with a scraper (Not plastic though).
What is your reasoning behind not using a wire wheel , (and using it with common sense)?
I'll bet you've never built a modular with MLS gaskets then. If you use a wire wheel or similar,the abrasive gouges left in the aluminum will compromise the sealing surface of the head against the gasket,and you'll end up with leak issues. Ford already has a problem with these engines seeping oil on the passenger rear of the heads from poor finish machining. JL
I used a plastic scraper and brake cleaner.... and time.
For the really tough spots, I did resort to a razor blade, BUT with EXTREME care to avoid causing any damage to the aluminum. Used a brand new blade and pre-tested it on a sheet of plastic to assure there were no knicks or damaged corners that would scratch or dig in.
In my defense, I did not mean a wire wheel, I meant a wire brush powered by your hand. I also thought it was assumed that care and finesse as well as common sense were to be employed when using these methods.
Having said that, I have not rebuilt a modular engine. Neither have I rebuilt an aluminum engine, so I may have been talking out of school...